Cleaning Vintage Bikes

I don't think they can be cleaned.

I think you're supposed to completely dissassemble them, let the parts sit in a box for a few years, paint them all the same color and then struggle to figure out what goes where.

;)

Depends on how bad they need the cleaning, but I always suggest spraying all electrical with electric parts cleaner, including disconnecting all connectors and spraying the terminals.

Other than that, some heavy duty degreaser and your wife's toothbrush.
 
When using John's method, it's usually best to have two or even three bikes on the go at once. Keeps you from getting bored. Don't forget to have at least three beers before getting started.
 
Im getting started on the 3 bikes at ones.... its a lot of fun!

Best thing for old rusty bikes is a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Pulls rust out of parts really easy. But I would get a fine wheel so you don't take any metal off, just rust grease and old paint. And don't forget you will have to put some kind of sealer on what ever you brush, or it will rust and ull be back where you started.

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Soap. water, solvent, carb cleaner, air sprayer, media blasting, uhh err elbow grease and like the others said, disassembly works best.
 
^ The bench grinder has been my best friend. Dremel for the detail work and a wire wheel on the drill or die grinder for the stuff in-between
 
Don't get overwhelmed with a huge mess of a bike. Just take off one piece one day and make it clean and perfect then the next day do the piece under that one and do the same. Before you know it you will have a clean bike! And its the best way to learn how the bike works.

I pulled my SL350 apart just to "clean" and it took me about 30 hours!! just to clean and repaint everything! But that was all at once witch I wouldn't recommend doing it all at once if its your first build.
 
Re: Re: Cleaning Vintage Bikes

honda53rider said:
Don't get overwhelmed with a huge mess of a bike. Just take off one piece one day and make it clean and perfect then the next day do the piece under that one and do the same. Before you know it you will have a clean bike! And its the best way to learn how the bike works.

I pulled my SL350 apart just to "clean" and it took me about 30 hours!! just to clean and repaint everything! But that was all at once witch I wouldn't recommend doing it all at once if its your first build.

Great advice. That's kinda of what I ve been doing. Thanks for all the feedback. So quickly too. You guys are unbelievable.

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Bench grinder is definitely a time and elbow grease saver. I have one with a wire wheel and buffing pad. My customer was talking about replacing the hard lines on these brake calipers that are 47 years old. 2 minutes on the wire wheel and he has new lines:




 
I use most of the methods mentioned above I do not have a bench grinder....yet but I do have a drill press so I mount the wire wheel. Brass is least damaging and I use it, rotates slower then a grinder but just takes a few minutes per part longer. works great.
 
I use ACE Hardware premium enamel on my parts. But be warned!!!!! Gas will eat it! So for the tank you really need to have a pro spray it with a 2 part paint that will hold up to gas, and a little brake fluid.
 
NAPA 2k clear in rattle can. Wear protective cloths amd respirator but shit is gas proof.

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My father's done this before and it's always turned out really nice. A bit time consuming, but definitely shows results.

honda53rider said:
Im getting started on the 3 bikes at ones.... its a lot of fun!

Best thing for old rusty bikes is a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Pulls rust out of parts really easy. But I would get a fine wheel so you don't take any metal off, just rust grease and old paint. And don't forget you will have to put some kind of sealer on what ever you brush, or it will rust and ull be back where you started.

P1010238.JPG
 
Anyone ever use a steam cleaner? (The steam jet kind, not the carpet cleaner kind) I am thinking of picking one up. I know car detailers typically use something like that to do engine bays. Obviously a consumer grade one wouldn't be as powerful, but given a little more time/effort I am wondering if one would do a good job. Also obviously it wouldn't do anything for rust, but might be good on greasy, dirty, dusty areas/parts.

I am thinking something like this might do the trick...
http://www.amazon.com/Steamfast-SF-370-Multi-Purpose-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0051T8XMW
 
I've given that some thought myself, but haven't gotten one to try it.

For chrome, some WD40 and #0000 steel wool works wonders. For engines, Simple Green or other non-toxic degreaser and one of those soft long bristle car wash brushes gets in the nooks and crannies.

Nothing wrong with taking it to a DIY car wash place and hitting it with a pressure washer either. Just don't stick the want in your airbox or direct the spray at electrical components.
 
o1marc said:
Bench grinder is definitely a time and elbow grease saver. I have one with a wire wheel and buffing pad. My customer was talking about replacing the hard lines on these brake calipers that are 47 years old. 2 minutes on the wire wheel and he has new lines:



I don't mean to hijack this thread but the above made me very angry :mad:.
Please tell me it was just a poor choice of words regarding a little wire wheeling makes a part "new". IN fact the only part that matters is the INSIDE of that pipe.
You got it looking good but removed any plating that was on the pipe and fittings, that's not good. Clear coat it, yea for while it'll be ok. Then it will rust from the outside in.
The BEST duty you could do for your customer would be replace it since it STOPS the bike. It's not the buckle on the seat strap.You should have listened to the customer....
Sorry for the rant...
Larz
 
Brass wire brush won't hurt the chrome. And chromed brake lines are rarely rusty inside...
 
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