Clear Coating over graphics?

Will McD

1982 CB650C
I want to have some graphics made to put on my tank and I'd like to know how i should have them made and how i can apply them. I was thinking of just having them cut out of vinyl, put them on the base coat and clear over top of them. Is this ok? Will any vinyl work? How big should they be, and do I have to wait long after I spray the base coat before I put them on? (I should mention that I have these decals in the proper format to be cut out on a regular sign cutter)
 
Sure. Have the shop that makes them for you cut them out of 10yr (or longer) vinyl. It seems to be thinner which is good and lasts longer than more common stuff. A few coats of clear over the whole thing and they'll be set.
 
Swagger said:
Sure. Have the shop that makes them for you cut them out of 10yr (or longer) vinyl. It seems to be thinner which is good and lasts longer than more common stuff. A few coats of clear over the whole thing and they'll be set.
Thanks for the tip. I went to the sign shop today and we tried cutting them out but I guess they are to detailed in the wing part and they get screwed up during cutting... soo im going to another place to have them printed out on vinyl and apparently this will be thinner and easier to clear over.
 
My decals are vinyl with 4-5 coats of clear over them... When I finally feel confident that I can get the shine back I'll wet sand it smooth so there is no un-evenness over the vinyls.
 
Ease said:
My decals are vinyl with 4-5 coats of clear over them... When I finally feel confident that I can get the shine back I'll wet sand it smooth so there is no un-evenness over the vinyls.

With that many coats and the clear dry, I'd wetsand it with 2500 grit , and finish with 3000 grit if you can find it.. And do the whole tank to smooth out the whole surface from orange peel and other defects. Then use something like Meguiers Paint System, the 3 step paint cleaner, polish and wax. Cleaner to get the sanded clear out of the topcoat, polish to smooth everything like glass, and wax to protect it.
Sand in one direction, use a 3M squeegie to wipe off the water often to check progress, and check often.

I've had great success with this stuff.
 
retaRD said:
With that many coats and the clear dry, I'd wetsand it with 2500 grit , and finish with 3000 grit if you can find it.. And do the whole tank to smooth out the whole surface from orange peel and other defects. Then use something like Meguiers Paint System, the 3 step paint cleaner, polish and wax. Cleaner to get the sanded clear out of the topcoat, polish to smooth everything like glass, and wax to protect it.
Sand in one direction, use a 3M squeegie to wipe off the water often to check progress, and check often.

I've had great success with this stuff.

Is that all hand polishing compounds? Or machine polish?
 
Hand.

I'm not sure if you can use them with a machine though..

Works fine for me by hand though.
 
OK Good to know. I've been looking for a good product that I don't have to use a polisher for... Makes me nervous. :-\

I'm all about wet sanding. I wet sanded between paint / clear to get rid of any orangepeel (but there is still some in the clearcoat). Plus there are a few scratches in the clearcoat now too so I gotta buff them out... just as well to do the sanding now instead.

Thanks again for the info.
 
is it necessary to sand the base coat before clearing? I'm using a black metallic base and i was just gonna let it flash off and start the clear.
 
Will McD said:
is it necessary to sand the base coat before clearing? I'm using a black metallic base and i was just gonna let it flash off and start the clear.

Not sure about metallics, but I recomend it otherwise...
Aside for the benefit of removing all of the orangepeel it also gave me a perfectly flat surface for applying the vinyl decals.
 
Will McD said:
is it necessary to sand the base coat before clearing? I'm using a black metallic base and i was just gonna let it flash off and start the clear.


Do not wet sand before clear! Don't ever use anything finer than 600 or 1000 before clear (there are exceptions to this such as when doing a quick repair during the process such as knocking out a bit of trash). All you'd be doing is making the whole job harder, in every way. Besides just the sanding part which is work, the clear will not stick well to a super smooth surface and the application will be touchier (it will want to blister, fisheye, and run)

Scroll down to the headlight bucket post
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=5844&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=80

The thing to keep in mind is that you DONT want a smooth surface before another coat. I got in the habit of dragging 1000grit across the surface to knock down highs.

If it were me, I'd put the graphic on the first layer of clear and clear over the top of that. I also would never clear over vinyl and instead use rubdowns (dry transfers) these are much thinner and they aren't shiny smooth. Anything that's shiny smooth paint will not want to stick to. If you have to use vinyl I'd scuff it up a bit after applying it to give the clear some tooth to bite into.
 
Well then...

I guess I was wrong.

I got the advice to do what I did online, and so far it has turned out well... But I've seen Mysta's work, so maybe he has a better painter giving him advice.

Sorry if my info is wrong.
 
Dont worry about Ease, im sure everyone has their methods. Ive never sanded with anything finer than 500 grit before applying paint over top, and i believe I am using dry transfers. I have to pick them up tomorrow. I just didnt want to have to let the first coat of clear dry, sand apply transfers than spray more clear. But it seems that would be the safest rout.
thanks for the tips guys
 
I wouldn't say you're wrong, or that what you did wont work, I'd just think that you're making more work for yourself than you need to. Skinning cats and all. Clear coating over vinyl is something that's done from the factory, Suzuki did a lot of it back in the eighties, might still do it and they weren't even worried about the lip that it left. Dry transfers are absolutely a better way to go... but that's only if you can get them. With a dry transfer basicly all you are putting onto the paint is the ink that makes up the graphic... so there's no worry about cutting or thickness. I did my coils with dry transfers:

http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
 
Will McD said:
I want to have some graphics made to put on my tank and I'd like to know how i should have them made and how i can apply them. I was thinking of just having them cut out of vinyl, put them on the base coat and clear over top of them. Is this ok? Will any vinyl work? How big should they be, and do I have to wait long after I spray the base coat before I put them on? (I should mention that I have these decals in the proper format to be cut out on a regular sign cutter)

why not check with Andre at stickers@reproductiondecals.com he is the guy who might know best or a custom body shop.
maybe others have covered this already, just trying to help
bw
 
I have body shop buddies that hate vinyl stickers that have been cleared over. Partly because of the edge left by all manufacturers, and also because vinyl shrinks over time, even 10 year vinyl. When it shrinks, it looks like shit. Still, the best way to go about it is to paint it on, possibly with a stencil.
 
Yah i tried doing that. I used masking paper and printed out the image on it and tried cutting it out with an exacto-knife. The graphic is so small that its really hard and the curves come out looking choppy. I think I'm still gonna try the decal method. I have a guy printing some out for me but I'm not sure what they are yet, its not vinyl though. I'm gonna pick em up Saturday.
 
You could get the negative cut out of vinyl and mask everything else... then peel and clear.

... I have a feeling I may be corrected again though. :D
 
The 10yr vinyl we use has less that .002% shrinkage over it's life span and very good uv (fade) resistance. It's commonly available so you'll doubtlessly be able to get it near you.
Your tank swells and shrinks more from temperature than that. It'll be fine....let the body shop guys piss and moan, they're probably not going to be doing your paint it doesn't sound like..and even if they are....it's part of the job. Bunch of pansy's......
 
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