coil repower mod cb360 help and advice needed

[tonuppirate]

after noting that with a fully charged battery (12.5 volts) I was only getting 9.4 volts at the coils I have decided to do the $50.00 coil repower mod found here

http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=26

but it describes a kawasaki setup. I have a honda cb360, has anyone done one of these mode on a cb360? the tutorial varies a bit from what I have on my bike so I like to hear from someone who has done one on a 360.
if so what is different (wire color, location, etc) do I need to wire in the dyna s part?

the wiring diagram is here

some background
basically after troubleshooting I am fairly certain that my problem is a weak spark, my carb is clean, jets are original size 100 and 68 (keihin) but running K&N filters and aftermarket exhaust, and cleaned points, if anything bike should be running lean, but both plugs are black and sooty and getting a lot of decel pops, even after a hard ride. bike dies at idle unless i crank up the idle speed. battery is original lead acid type and a little bit weak, it likes to run about 11.4 volts unless fresh off the battery tender. but I have a new battery for it, the only problem is, that i need to build a battery holder/box for it as the existing box is just a tiny bit too narrow. anyway thanks in advance.
TP

 

[hillsy]

That diagram is pretty generic - the "powerfrom starter relay bolt" = the positive terminal of your battery, and the "trigger from kill switch" = your current coil power wire (the 9.4v one). The rest of the wiring should be self-explanatory.

Don't know if that's going to cure all your problems, but having full voltage at the coils will definitely help

 

[bikeboy]

That diagram is pretty generic - the "powerfrom starter relay bolt" = the positive terminal of your battery, and the "trigger from kill switch" = your current coil power wire (the 9.4v one). The rest of the wiring should be self-explanatory.

Don't know if that's going to cure all your problems, but having full voltage at the coils will definitely help

Yep. That's all you need. The wire from the coil (on my cb900 at least) is black/white. Can't find a diagram to verify, but I'd be surprised if they changed it? If you're taking your 12 volts from the starter relay, make sure it's the "hot" (battery) side. Otherwise you'll only power your coils while the starter is going ;D

cheers
ian

 

[Wee Todd]

I would seriously check your battery,,,,,they will show 12.2- 11.8,,,and if there old,,,,they will go flat in a matter of minutes,,,,,,,,and you have the luxury of a charging system ;D

 

[DrJ]

I tried that relay setup and didn't notice any ignition improvements so I removed it. Buy swapping the original coils with Dynas really increased ignition power and reliability.

 

[dcmspikes]

i also did the mod on my 360 and didnt notice any diff. nothing like i was expecting

 

[hillsy]

i also did the mod on my 360 and didnt notice any diff. nothing like i was expecting

It will only make a difference if the voltage to the coil is low. Otherwise there's not much point doing it.

Some bikes have difficulty starting if the voltage to the coils is below 10v (my brothers Z1300 for one), but this is mainly due to the electric zapping the power from the coils too.

I just re-read to original post and saw you were getting 11v at the battery when the bike is running - you should check your charging system.

 

[tonuppirate]

well that is my problem voltage to the coil IS low, measured at 9 volts with the battery voltage at 11.4 volts.

actually i was getting 11v when the bike was not running. i haven't checked it when it was running. bad weather and no garage has postponed any further checks since my last post. I'll check the voltage with the bike running next, but i don't think i'll see much difference at idle due to the fact that at low rpms the charging system is not putting out much current anyway. I'll snag an ammeter from work and check the amp output as well. but I noticed that when i have 11v at the battery i have 9 volts at the coil, so i'm getting a major loss somewhere.

i'm going to start replacing wires and connectors one at a time and see if I can figure out where the voltage loss is.

I also put the battery on a trickle charger for a day, and brought the battery up to 13 volts. but, after taking it off the charger overnight the battery measured 12 volts. so I lost a volt overnight. the battery either is not holding a charge, or i have some kind of parasitic drain. however it usually wont go below 11 volts. even if it sits for a few days. so i'm guessing just bad (or going bad) battery.

I did get a new battery, sealed gel type. It is much shorter than stock but just a tiny bit wider, so I have to make a custom battery box for it. it is a 12v 8A 190CCA, so it should have plenty of juice should i ever need to use the starter. its just going to be a pain building a box for it. I have a few designs floating around in my head, probably going to use aluminum strip stock pop-riveted together and attached at the stock battery box mounts, just to keep it simple. battery is short enough that i should be able to use pods or velocity stacks without hitting the battery.

I'm making new battery cables as well, the old ones look pretty grotty (I install low voltage/high amperage DC communications gear at work, so i have all the wires, crimpers, lugs etc I need) I'll make sure I still have a good ground, and will probably install a new set of points to start with. anyone know where I can get the high temp shielded wire that runs from the points to the coils? I'd like to swap out that too, but I cant find that anywhere? and I'll give everything a good cleaning with electrical contact cleaner. we'll see if that helps.

on a further note the boots holding the K&N filter pods to my carbs gave out, they are just too old and torn up to hang on anymore. they are a weird design. they clamp on the the carb intake and then angle 45 or so degrees out for about 3-4 inches and then the k&N's attach to them. it needs to be that way to clear the stock battery box. but I have no idea where the PO got them. I'd like to get a replacement set to use until I can fab up a new battery box. If someone can give me an idea where i might get something like this I'd appreciate it. as usual any advice is appreciated, especially if I am barking up the wrong tree.
V/R
TP

 

[Big R]

Got a pic handy of those intake boots?

 

[tonuppirate]

sure, these are the boots, they are actually held on to the the filters by 4 screws and what appears to be RTV, and are secured to the carbs by hose clamps.

 

[Big R]

Those look like factory boots. Maybe not for you bike in particular, but definitely look like stock boots.