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I will as soon as I get around to it, still setting up (new) shop and so far been welding on two bike stands stacked up with a chunk of sheet metal tossed on top. need to setup the little turret fixture to cradle the tank, you have to jump around a lot so the beer can' can hold form. supposed to be nice Sunday here, I'll post some picks of the weld up, need to drill and fill a few pinners too... that shit was pretty rusty inside. Hell maybe I'll full my bottles and show all the weld processes I mentioned
That's ambitious. I have an aluminum tank that I had to split into two halves to get rid of the dents. Now I think about it, I did that on two previous TZ aluminum tanks too.
Professionals usually cut an access hole in the bottom of the tank to get "spoons" in to the right places.
If you ever cut open an old steel tank you may be surprised at the amount of rust inside. I sliced and diced a steel Suzuki tank recently and it had been "coated" or lined to cover up the rust. Coverage was incomplete and the thing was still rusting. OK for a seat hump though.
seeing that rust in the tank i thought,the metal be thinner..lighter.....back in the day some race car shops would soak the car in a swimming pool of acid to make it lighter....crazy but true
That's ambitious. I have an aluminum tank that I had to split into two halves to get rid of the dents. Now I think about it, I did that on two previous TZ aluminum tanks too.
Professionals usually cut an access hole in the bottom of the tank to get "spoons" in to the right places.
If you ever cut open an old steel tank you may be surprised at the amount of rust inside. I sliced and diced a steel Suzuki tank recently and it had been "coated" or lined to cover up the rust. Coverage was incomplete and the thing was still rusting. OK for a seat hump though.
Yeah, a copper "spoon" is needed to back the pinner welds for sure or you have a huge build up and a lot of grinding/chance for imperfections in the weld. I'm no pro, but I have a lot of time welding and setting up turrets and robots from both exhaust and Kawasaki jobs, welding beer cans was an 8 hour job for a while running 360's blind on the backside while making ridiculous rate to hold onto a job. I'm old...er and having fun with my learned methods now is all.
seeing that rust in the tank i thought,the metal be thinner..lighter.....back in the day some race car shops would soak the car in a swimming pool of acid to make it lighter....crazy but true
One of the techs I worked with who raced oval track would tell me stories of guys back in the day leaving their frames out for a year then sandblasting them so they could shave some weight off the car to get the upper hand on the others.....scary shit thinking that you compromised the integrity of the cage for a few pounds
If you want a raw tank, but a new one. As mentioned it will cost a lot of money and time to get those dents out. Fuel tank steel is heavy gauge and does not move easily. A stud welder isn't going to do shit to those dents. It needs an actual dent machine, and only very high end collision shops will have one of those.
If you want a raw tank, but a new one. As mentioned it will cost a lot of money and time to get those dents out. Fuel tank steel is heavy gauge and does not move easily. A stud welder isn't going to do shit to those dents. It needs an actual dent machine, and only very high end collision shops will have one of those.
Sorry. Rubbish! I pull wildly worse dents than shown here often enough with a stud welder and a torch. Easy if tedious. And maybe a bit of shrinking is needed. I always paint, but a bit of patience and determination can result in a very good outcome. I am perfectly ok with a tiny bit of body filler, but a skilled man can absolutely return typical damage to plenty good enough to leave "raw". It does in fact require either time or money, but it is not as impossible or even as hard as all that. Whether it is worth it or better to just get another tank I guess depends on your budget.
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