Dominator Scrambler Supermoto-ish thing


New Member
I had to use two spacers because the head stem tapers down in the middle. The upper bearing won't have a nice contact patch that way:


I don't have the bike at my house currently. But I think they were both around 8mm thick.

Thanks :)


Been Around the Block
ThomPa said:
I had to use two spacers because the head stem tapers down in the middle. The upper bearing won't have a nice contact patch that way:


I don't have the bike at my house currently. But I think they were both around 8mm thick.

Thanks :)

What gas tank are you currently running?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


New Member
Nice build to follow, ThomPa!!!

Like CaferacerMO, i'm really interest in what tank you are using in this domi, from which bike is it? And one last question, what bike is next to the Aprilia?


New Member
I think that's the CG125 tank, fairly common on nx650 tracker builds. Tons of replicas on alibaba too.


New Member
So I had a little anodising adventure.

This is the result:


The caliper came out pretty good. Although they have de-anodised the inside (where the pistons seat) but plugged it of before anodising it black. Hopefully that doesn't cause any leakage problems.



The disc brake center didn't come out perfect. Some pitting in a few places. Not happy.


The bar clamps have really bad pitting. What could cause this?


Some streaks on the handlebar. The other one they did (on the KTM) had streaks as well but on the underside. So you can't see it when mounted.


The clamps on the KTM came out nicely.


New Member

I'm still working on it lol

I recently finished my study so I've got plenty of time for it now. If you guys are interested in updates let me know.


New Member

I literally signed up to this forum after seeing your thread just to tell you YES!!!!!! Please continue!!!!!!! You're the first person i've come across with the same if not similar concept for a Domi. I'm in the process of importing one into Canada and I'm glad to learn from the challenges you're facing. Keep it up!!! 8)


New Member
Then I will continue :)

Anyways, I'm working on the forks as we speak. I recently bought my third set of forks for this bike. I just couldn't find any that haven't been mangled up with a pipe wrench. With the forks coming of a MX bike it's really hard find nice ones. It's easier to get donor forks from a street supermoto like a KTM 690 SMC.

Below you can see how they started out. They are 47mm Showa forks from a Honda CRF. You can also see the finished rims. I will get to that later on.

For now I'm using OEM CRF triples. Maybe later I will have a custom set machined but for now the bike has been expensive enougho_O

To make them fit I had a custom stem turned with 2 30x47x12mm tapered roller bearings. There is also a 45x30x2mm spacer under the lower bearing.

Technical drawing I made for the stem. After test fitting I concluded that the 16,5mm measurement on the top thread would be better if it was 14mm. I stil have to commission someone to machine it down 2.5mm.

The forks mounted on the bike. They are already lowered in this picture.

I wanted them to be black so I had them reanodised which was a lot of work.

First I had them deanodised:

Here you can see the pitting from rocks and just regular MX use:

To get a good result you have to sand and polish the fork tube. You pretty much need a lathe to do the sanding but I don't have a metal lathe and they are very expensive. As a solution I bought a wood lathe for €50 and 3D printed two adapters on my Ultimaker Original.



During the sanding and polishing:

The different stages. The ones on the left are finished. The final finish is 800 grit wet. Emery cloth works best. As you can see I also did my second set of forks.

So the final result can be seen here.

Currently in the progress on rebuilding the internals with new shim stacks suited for supermoto. The forks have also been lowered internally. I will get more in detail when I finish rebuilding the forks.

The shim stack will be identical to this setup. I found it on a supermoto forum and some guy running this setup on a supermoto converted XR650R (Which will be similar in weight as my bike) was pretty happy with the setup. As I don't really know anything about suspension setup and having them done professionally being really expensive I'm going to take this setup as a base setup. I just had to buy 8 6x30x0.10 shims to get the correct stack as I stole some from one of the other forks I had. I sold that fork later on as a 'parts' fork.

Pretty cool video about shock settings:

In the next post I will probably have the forks finished up.
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New Member
Some info regarding lowering of CRF forks.

You have to do two things.

Step one. Either borrow a lathe or have someone else machine a new groove in both cartridges. In my case I moved the retaining ring 112mm upwards because I needed to lower my forks 112mm. This moves the spring 112mm up.


Step two. Because the spring has moved up 112mm the damper rod will have 112mm of slack. To counter this you will have to machine two spacers. I had them made from POM. The measurements are ID 12mm, OD 19.4mm and 112mm long.


It's pretty easy to lower these forks. You just need somebody with a lathe (The through hole must be 28mm+ and you need a custom ground tool for the groove but that is pretty easy to make) and some POM.

Because I didn't like the gold anodising on the cartridges I bead blasted the visible ends. The bead blasted finish also masks some dents and scratches so it's a win win.


I had the fork foot lowers powder coated and I installed them back on. Officially you have to use high strength loctite but I think I will be fine using medium strength. They are also retained by a set screw. It's quite hard to unscrew them from the fork stanchion. Always use a lot of heat to compromise the high strength loctite they put on from the factory.




Tomorrow I will be rebuilding the shim stacks and installing new seals, bushings and oil to complete forks.
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New Member
Today I finished rebuidling the forks.

I started with cleaning the rebound adjusters. A steel wire brush on a dremel makes it easy.



The new seals and bushings.


I wrapped the ends of the inner tube in electrical tape so the new seals won't get damaged when installing them.


All seals and bushings are ready for installation.


I used a 3D printed tool to fit the seals.


The cartridge resting to let the air bubbles out.


The base valves chilling in fork oil to let air bubbles out.


Another 3D printed tool to screw the cartridge into the outer fork tube.


The finished fork.



In the end I didn't quite get the shim stack identical to the stack i posted earlier. My stock valving was different to the one in the picture.
I went with the setup you can see below with 400cc 5W oil. The stock valving is also changed to what was in my fork. We will see how good it works when I finally ride the bike.


For the springs I scavenged them from my second fork. The standard springs I had are 0.44 kgf/mm. I don't exactly know the spring rate of the other springs but they are the same length, diameter and have the same wire diameter. The only difference seems to be that they have 4 windings less. Using this website: I guessed that they are 0.51 kgf/mm. I think that will be better for my application since my bike is going to be ~40kg heavier than a CRF.
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New Member
I originally bought a set of Honda CRF wheels that I wanted to adapt to the Dominator. After making spacers and changing the bearings I came to the conclusion (Well I already knew about the problem but didn't really consider it a big problem until later on) that I needed a big and expensive custom machined adapter for the sprocket to keep the front and rear sprocket in line with each other. It just wasn't worth it.

I sold the CRF wheels and bought a OEM CRF front hub. I dismantled the OEM Dominator rear wheel and had both hubs powder coated. I bought two new Excel rims (They are a bit dusty in the pictures) 3.5 inch wide in the front and 5.00 inch wide in the rear which jussssst fits. I had them laced with black spokes and nipples. Since the Beringer brake rotor I had didn't fit the OEM CRF hub I had to buy a new one. I bought a PZ5 Cobra 310mm disc. PZ5 is a small Italian company that makes Gucci supermoto parts. If money was no problem I would've bought the brake caliper as well. For now I will use the Beringer 4 piston caliper in combination with a 14mm Grimeca MC.





I added some titanium hardware because I have absolutely no self control when buying nice things.



Whats pretty cool is that I made the rims tubeless myself using a special tape. I used 3M Extreme sealing 4411N Tape. I used a second layer of thick 3M packing tape.

The process.

First I put some heat on the wheel so the tape would conform to curves better.

My dad is helping me with pushing down the tape. It's much easier with two people.

Rear wheel in progress.

Added some more tape just to be sure.

All done with the packing tape added to protect the sealing tape.

Front wheel is done as well.

For the valves I used Aliexpress valves that I had to modify a bit.

I did the wheels a few months ago and they are still holding air perfectly so I'm very happy. I bought the sealing tape for €18 and the packing tape for €7 or so. €25 gives you two tubeless tires. Thats cheaper than buying two tubes. Tho it is a lot more work.
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You don't stop riding when you get old...
Excellent work! There's lots to learn here and will bookmark your thread for future reference for fork work.

And your wheels... really nice! I've always resisted spoke wheels whenever possible because they're such a pain to keep clean, but yours look like they'd be worth the trouble.
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Over 1,000 Posts
Really interesting to watch your build, and your use of the 3D printer is really smart. Great work man


New Member

Currently working on a new subframe. I've always mocked everything up with the old shock but the new Wilbers shock has more travel so the rear tire will hit the subframe. The order in which you take on the project is very important. These kind of mistakes are easily made. My next build will be 100 times easier and faster.

I literally couldn't find anyone that can bend 22mm steel tube with my specified CLR(center line radius). So I bought a JD2 Model 3 bender and the correct die (had to sell some organs to finance it but it's a tool for life I guess). My friend is waterjet cutting some steel for me so I can make a stand for it and actually use the thing.

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