Engine Cleaning/Painting Prep

iSack1L

Been Around the Block
If I don't do blasting of any kind, and decide rather to clean the engine case up with Simple Green, a wire wheel and some bottle brushes...

1. Will I need to re-clear anything?

2. Also, if I polish the stator cover will that need re-cleared?

3. Lastly, if I decide to shoot engine paint, what should I do about allowing it to cure if its not no the bike yet, and I don't have oven access?

Thanks all. ;D
 
You should not need to reclear anything, polishing aluminum should be just fine with out a clear coat on top. For the engine paint, I think you can just paint it and then when you do finally run the bike that heat should cure it fully. Now I am not totally sure about the engine paint though, anyone have any other ideas about curing the engine paint?
 
I painted mine over winter, out of bike, it dried well, I was then careful to not nick it or get fuel on it until after I ran it a few times to cure it, I did get 2 drops from the carbs before the first running and it F'd up that spot, but I cleaned and re-did, then cured it and it has since gotten gas drips here and there and held up fine. Duplicolor high heat low gloss black engine spray bomb.

Cheers,
 
Well thats good to know, because I plan on painting my engine crankcase, block, head, etc out of the bike well its all torn apart and it will probably be a while until I get it all back together and running.
 
Duplicolor DE 1615 Aluminum was the closest color to my engine cases on my Honda. As far as curing, the Duplicolor site said nothing about curing. However If you go with VHT, they require a cure process. If you need to cure but dont have a large oven, you can try a portable space heater or propane heater. Make sure you measure the temp before cooking it. Body shops do this when doing small repairs.
 
as far as cleaning/ prepping for paint on the engine, what's required? it seems everyine has forgotten this part of the topic. i am interested in this myself.
 
Some people may think I'm crazy but I prefer laquer thinner, cleans the surface great and it leaves no residue. Just be careful around rubber seals, other than that nothing to worry about. I just put some in a container, use a toothbrush for small areas and a 1" paint brush for larger areas and wipe it off with a rag, and use shop air to blow it off, you may have to do it a couple times but before you do it the last time scuff the aluminum a little with a red 3m scuff pad, clean it with thinner once more, wipe it off, blow it off, mask, then spray.
 
VHT paint!! its good . you can get it at Oreily's and most auto parts sotres though i didnt see it at NAPA

Chemical reistant, self priming
 
a gun barrel cleaning kit works very well for getting in between the fins. put it on a drill and you'll be done in no time. :)
 
malloy said:
a gun barrel cleaning kit works very well for getting in between the fins. put it on a drill and you'll be done in no time. :)
I just went to Dicks and bought a few sizes of wire brushes. I had an old cleaning rod that I cut down and use it as a drill mandrel. The copper brushes are soft enough not to damage the alum and it gets the surface nice and clean.
 
laidout said:
as far as cleaning/ prepping for paint on the engine, what's required? it seems everyine has forgotten this part of the topic. i am interested in this myself.

Best thing I've found is putting the parts in the dishwasher.

Best done when the "other half" is out for a while ;D
 
hillsy said:
Best thing I've found is putting the parts in the dishwasher.

Best done when the "other half" is out for a while ;D

Yes, do not attempt this with her in the house! Also putting parts in the oven! Wait until a safe time when you are sure she will be gone long enough for you to complete, and clean up before her return! This is a safty tip!
 
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