Father Son 75 CB200T Rise From the Ruins

Matt we are wiring and firing the super Sparckmoto capacitor up along with the righteously regulated rectifier. Two things. We want to promote our friends at the handbuilt show in Austin in three weeks and we want to get rid of the abomination of a stock wiring harness. Do you have time to make us one...let me know the price and I will PayPal ya pal! Also do you think we are good with using the dyna S? Enclosed is a little string from pamco Pete and Hugh for a firing up minus blowing up procedure http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15752

We will need to take the deadman switch and rider on off switch on the handle bar. (Required for our Bonny lies over the salt flats) into consideration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pat,

We're pretty backed up at the moment with work, but I'll see what I can do. I've been planning on taking a couple of days off to catch up anyway.

For the battery eliminator wiring, you want something like the attached image (no fuse necessary when running with a battery eliminator, but it's included in case you want to swap back and forth with a battery).

When it comes times to run on the flats, you'll probably want to switch out to total loss, though.

-Matt
 

Attachments

  • battery eliminator.png
    battery eliminator.png
    9.7 KB · Views: 813
Assuming (and that's never a good idea) that the black is Ground and Red is +12v, you could wire that up so that the whole charging system could be unplugged and replaced with a total loss battery with a pair of twin connectors, or fit the Capacitor with a twin connector and make that replaceable with a battery just in case it's too hard to start it and need a plan B. Options - It's the American way baby.
 
teazer said:
Assuming (and that's never a good idea) that the black is Ground and Red is +12v, you could wire that up so that the whole charging system could be unplugged and replaced with a total loss battery with a pair of twin connectors, or fit the Capacitor with a twin connector and make that replaceable with a battery just in case it's too hard to start it and need a plan B. Options - It's the American way baby.
"Wealth is not about having a lot of money; it's about having a lot of options." :)
Chris Rock



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cb200 rod vs Yamaha beluga 125 rod. Cb200 weighs 163g
aneha9a8.jpg
with bearings and the Yamaha rod weighs 145
jemyzugu.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The beluga rod has oil journals for the roller bearings the cb200 doesn't
8emasy5a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Video 200 rod and piston vs Yamaha Beluga rod and Tbolt Piston http://youtu.be/O2xZLeD98O4

Yamaha rods bump cb200
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That's a 2 stroke rod designed to get oil in from the outside. Not very suitable for a 4 smoke. What's the small end like?

I did notice those the single rollers versus paired rollers in the Honda rod. That is much more suited to high rpms.
 
teazer said:
That's a 2 stroke rod designed to get oil in from the outside. Not very suitable for a 4 smoke. What's the small end like?

I did notice those the single rollers versus paired rollers in the Honda rod. That is much more suited to high rpms.
here is a pix of the ends
yre9uza3.jpg
saqy7u4e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
split .080" between the head and base and you are .053" long (tall) of zero deck

but you knew that didn't you ?

~kop
 
teazer said:
That's a 2 stroke rod designed to get oil in from the outside. Not very suitable for a 4 smoke. What's the small end like?

I did notice those the single rollers versus paired rollers in the Honda rod. That is much more suited to high rpms.
i have AG Bell's two stroke theory...do I need to start reading it? Can we make it suitable for a four stroke? Can we go to a dry clutch and use a lighter weight synthetic oil?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Say goodbye to the extra wires, battery, box, etc. Getting Sparckmoto'd!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zudy8eje.jpg
 
cafe mike said:
Good riddance old wiring!
What's the purpose of the vent tube ran back. Is it because the factory is a placed right in front of the rear tire?
yep don't like any potential oil goin down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
teazer said:
Assuming (and that's never a good idea) that the black is Ground and Red is +12v, you could wire that up so that the whole charging system could be unplugged and replaced with a total loss battery with a pair of twin connectors, or fit the Capacitor with a twin connector and make that replaceable with a battery just in case it's too hard to start it and need a plan B. Options - It's the American way baby.
this was very confusing initially when we started on the wiring a year ago...the black wires were hot and so were the red wires. So we watched the test light and finally learned that the Japanese thought differently when it came to wiring. Green was ground but black and red was hot. If you look at Sonreir's wiring on the regulator rectifier you will see he is turning Japanese :) when we wired the rectifier we had to wire a red and a black together from the bike into the rectifier.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Sonreir said:
Pat,

We're pretty backed up at the moment with work, but I'll see what I can do. I've been planning on taking a couple of days off to catch up anyway.

For the battery eliminator wiring, you want something like the attached image (no fuse necessary when running with a battery eliminator, but it's included in case you want to swap back and forth with a battery).

When it comes times to run on the flats, you'll probably want to switch out to total loss, though.

-Matt
Matt to wire in a discharge switch do I want it on the red and send it to a ground on the frame?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top Bottom