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I got the Heim joints from dime city cycles. The rod is 6mm stainless threaded rod with 3/8" stainless tubing both from eBay. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301081552233&globalID=EBAY-US
Just received a picture of my leather seat from Ian Holcott out in CA. So far the only thing I've outsourced. The steel pan and cowl I made. Ian just did the leather. Still needs paint.
So I got the bike together last night after rebuilding the carbs. Happy that it cranked and ran, but not great. First of all I am running new KandN pods and just installed a 12" reverse come muffler (open) from cone engineering. Before the carbs rebuild it ran well just maybe a bit lean with the stock pipe. I went up to 110 on the mains from 105.
Now I am getting some hesitation when I roll on the throttle quickly, like a bogging. And some popping from time to time. If I stay on the throttle it will pull through the bogging and really take off but there is a lag. Do you think I should go up to 115 on the mains?
Also I parked it for a bit and forgot to turn the fuel off and within a few minutes fuel started running out the drain tubes of the float bowls. I know duh turn the fuel off dummy, but I have left the fuel on many times before I rebuilt the carbs and never had that happen.
Yes I know just enough to be dangerous. looking for some help here.
A friend of mine has just got is f1 back together he has k&n pods and a carpys pipe on it he had it on a dyno other day to set carbs up .he said they had put 118 in it runs a lot better now
Lowered the clip to the 5th position. And set the air screws to 1/2 out. Runs much better now. No bogging when you roll heavy on the throttle and no popping when you close it. However #3 is now cold!!
Check out the video and let me know how you think it sounds? A bit lean still? Still planning on installing 115's when I get them. To me sounds rough but that's likely due to #3 not firing. I guess I'll check to see if I have spark at the plug. http://youtu.be/iSs3uD16pkM
If you have a cylinder dragging it's going to sound rough. I will say though it sounds pretty smooth given one isn't firing. Try the drains and see if fuel comes out of 3 in a similar volume to the other cylinders that are firing.
Bike is looking great! I saw your post about looking for a longer swingarm pivot bolt to use with your rearset mounts. I'm working on a CB750 F0 and am running into the same issue.
It looks like you got them mounted up, what ended up working for you?
Bike is looking great! I saw your post about looking for a longer swingarm pivot bolt to use with your rearset mounts. I'm working on a CB750 F0 and am running into the same issue.
It looks like you got them mounted up, what ended up working for you?
Found a 9/16 threaded rod (hardened) at a place that does suspension and chassis for big trucks. Check somewhere like that or Google automotive fasteners. Just make sure it's hardened. Thanks man. You could also by stainless rod and take it to a machine shop to have it threaded on both ends.
I was in the same boat after removing the factory foot peg brackets. 2 of my engine mounting bolts were close to 3" too long.
I contacted a machine shop to see about getting the bolts shortened and rethreaded and they quoted me $100. I decided to check my local tool shop and they had the correct dies for both bolts. Cost me $16 for the 16mm die and $9 for the other. I measured where I wanted the bolt to end, cut with an angle grinder, deburred the edge and held it in the vise and rethreaded it. Worked great.
Nice! Yeah, I did a little research and it looks like the '77-78 CB750A (Hondamatic) had aluminum foot peg mounting plates, similar to the F2s, F3s, DOHCs etc. So that made the pivot bolts longer but more importantly, the bolt-shank remained 14mm in diameter - like the F0 F1 750s.
It looks like the '77-78 Hondamatic and the F2 and F3 750s also kept the bushings/collar in the swingarm pivot and didn't start using needle-bearings until 1980 which is maybe when they started using larger diameter pivot bolts? ArBrnSnpr you said you measured ~16mm correct? What was the bolt you measured off of?
Either way, I'm going to try and get a '77 Hondamatic pivot bolt off the eBay and see if it works. I have a feeling it may actually be too long in which case I'll have to do the die and chop like you did Snpr. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I think the A might be different than the Dohc f model. I tried that as well and they are definitely 16mm. Maybe check with the seller and have them measure before you order. If it works let us know!
Bought a bolt off a '77 750A on eBay, I had to buy the entire swingarm but for $39 shipped I didn't think it was too bad. Seller had pivot bolt diameter measured at 14mm so we'll see on Friday when it comes in.
When looking for a bolt I tried to find the earliest year cb750 that used aluminum mounting plates for the footpegs and the '77 A was the earliest I could find. None of the K models used plates for any year as far as I could tell.
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/400977307951?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">eBay Listing</a>
Started working on my seat and went back to check out your pictures. After spending some time on it my appreciation for how your's turned out went WAY up. That looks great man!
Started working on my seat and went back to check out your pictures. After spending some time on it my appreciation for how your's turned out went WAY up. That looks great man!
Aww shucks, thanks brother. I'm finishing up the paint this weekend, mounting the leather upholstery pan. Can't wait to see it complete and on the bike. Photos soon.
For now, i painted the seat pan as close to the current tank color as possible, Its a stock Honda Nighthawk color. The tank looks amazig so i want to go with that for a while. Eventually I am going to go with a cream color, but for now she will be the "Black Pearl"
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