Float level gauge

Thats metric, in cm. Waste of money in my opinion, money spent better on some digital calipers from harbor freight that can be use for thousands of other uses as well. Or... grind/sand down a regular metric ruler to the "0" mark and use that, I've done it both ways.

bob.
 
Ah you're right... it is cm. I just assumed inches and didn't look to closely.

I do have a set of calipers, its how I've always set float heights. However I was thinking these would end up being easier/more precise to use?
 
I really dont think so. I've never used one, but common sense tells me that nothing beats a caliper. Too simple a job to spend that kind of extra coin on. Now an impact driver however.... THAT is money well spent! I've got a whole shopping list of $30 and below (more)usefull specialty tools.

bob.
 
Hmm, well then perhaps I'll save my money on this one then. Also I completely agree...my mind was blown when I first learned about impact drivers....they're worth every penny!
 
They are slightly easier to use than a caliper, but, I've found you really need a caliper to set them accurately
 
as stated they are not really needed,i use a vernier but you really do not need to be that accurate, most float levels are plus or minus 1 mm or .040"...you can also make up nice go- no go float level gauges to ck when carbs are mounted (space is tight).i use a piece of acetate or any other piece of plastic...i have saved those free plastic c/c's they send you when they want you to sign up...not too difficult to visualize how to measure and cut it out so you can use it, one side i have the min and other max...joe@vcycle
 
Many people don't understand basic carburationThe +/- 1mm is to adjust fuel level to compensate for running problem, not a range to be aimed for.
You need an accurate measurement for base setting then make adjustments within the +/- range
It's then 100% legal, even in California with CARB regulations (in fact, it's the ONLY adjustment that's legal in all states)
Float height should be set to exact number, higher float level lowers fuel level, lower float level raises fuel level. Height of fuel in float chamber changes all carb circuits but mainly mid range can be made richer or leaner.

I haven't fitted pods to a CB/CM400, the carbs are pretty difficult to get right and will need air jet changes (it depends how much your prepared to put up with faulty carburation, usually loosing 3~5bhp but bike still runs OK'ish)

Bigger main jet richens up mixture at top end but also makes mid-range real rich when pods are fitted.

Raising float level lowers fuel level and leans out mid range
 
i've made a float gauge from thick stock paper which worked perfectly. Just know your depth, trace the float bowl and subtract from that the depth and cut it out. Easy.
 
some people do not understand the reality of how accurate float levels really are...when i said it is not real important to have a vernier that is true-verniers are down to the .001 or even.0001 and not needed for float levels....i have been tuning race bikes and servicing vintage bikes for 41 years. we change float levels depending on tuning at times for various reasons which would take too much time to cover. bottom line is ck most any shop manuals and you will see a float level and a range (+/-)..we are not really worried about epa and ca carb regulations(why would we),that is not a concern for tuning or for that matter anything! actually if you want to get technical float levels are not that accurate, actual fuel levels on a an operating bike is the way to go...joe@vcycle
 
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