GP Shifting - brake lever

john.leach1991@gmail.com

Been Around the Block
Hi everyone,

This may be a silly question, but when one switches to GP style shifting, what does one then do with the brake on the right side? Do you move that back as well, so your right foot isn't further forward than your left when you sit on the bike?

Just curious and I couldn't find this answer after searching the forums.

Thanks!
 
Switching to reverse or GP shifting doesn't move the footrest back...its literally just swapping over the linkage so that it rotates the other way.
 
Doesn't flipping the lever mean that it's now facing backward instead of front?

The bike that made me think of this question looked to be using the passenger peg with the shift lever pointing backwards.
 
Ahh so sticking the stock lever directly onto the gear shaft and facing towards the rear.

Most people ive seen do this shorten the lever so that the toe peg would fall in the same place as a conventional linkage setup.
 
Any thoughts as to what would be done with the brake in the case of flipping the lever and using the rear foothold? How do you replicate that position on the right side?
 
This one: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=37930.0

Am I confused? What's going on here?

The right side looks like a realllly short, reversed brake lever.
 
That's really difficult to see what's going on.

It looks like he has welded a short lever onto the shaft. Im guessing then to do this he just has to swap the direction of the rear brake arm so it applies pressure in the same diretion......or something like that?? Not familiar with that bike to be honest.....
 
It would be goofy to have the footpegs in different locations. The purpose isn't "GP type shifting." The whole point to to set the footpegs further back. Reversing the shifting is more of a side effect.

Now, there are going to be any number of guys jump in here and tell me I am full of shit. That the purpose of "GP type shifting" is to achieve faster upshifts because you are pushing down to shift up, and pushing down you have more strength with your toes. Well, if you think the couple of microseconds difference is useful in your riding, go for it. :)

You either want rearsets, or you don't. If that is what you want, then you have to adapt your shifter AND your brake to accommodate that. You don't do rearsets on one side only.
 
Green199 said:
Im guessing then to do this he just has to swap the direction of the rear brake arm so it applies pressure in the same diretion....

With the brake cam actuator in your typical rear drum brake, you can move the lever either way and it will engage the brake. The trouble is that if you put too much pressure on the brake pedal, using the brake rod as a push rod instead of a pull rod, the rod could bend.

A better way to do it is to flip the lever on the brake pedal shaft to the bottom instead of the top. That way, even though you are rotating the brake lever shaft in the opposite direction, it is still pulling on the rod. If the brake pedal is significantly shorter, you have to shorten the lever on the shaft, or lengthen the lever on the rear brake to have enough mechanical advantage.
 
problem with rotating the brake pedal lever away from the swingam pivot proximity is you eliminate being able to have an adjustable brake pedal, you get bump brake action, as soon as you get very far away from pulling the rod VERY close to the pivot this also makes it impossible to have an adjustable up stop on the pedal because if you did hitting a bump puts on the brake for you,unless you have a silly amout of free travel at the pedal which is just dumb
the only correct solution is like j-rod10 's rearset linkage
i think the main reason gp shifting is preffered because you dont have to have your foot under the lever so close to the tarmac surface while leaned over upshifting
IMAG0458_zps8d9b9d20.jpg
 
Ah, yes. Very good points. The brake actuating rod should be as close to parallel to the swingarm as possible.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Ah, yes. Very good points. The brake actuating rod should be as close to parallel to the swingarm as possible.
actually parallel is not important what it must be is the rod end as close as possible to the swinger pivot axis ...if it sweeps right over the swinger pivot axis, as were all dirt/mx bikes before the adoption of disc brakes, then the bump brake effect is pretty much zero, once you start moving away from that axids then it starts in with bump brake
of course the more wheel travel to deal with the more critical the situation is
example of a perfectly neutral pulling brake rod on this maico
and yes the rod or cable is paralel but only because it helps having shit tucked in cleanly away, not hanging ready to get snagged
images
 
yep a dif kettle o fish, the floating brake correctly designed in conjunction with a brake rod actuation zone removed from the axis of the swinger pivot has no bump brake effect
in other words if a mfg finds a setup as with the maico is not fitting in their desired footpeg brake pedal location then they would need the complexity of a floating brake plate
 
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