Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I wouldn't say it's a very noticeable improvement (at least not in my case). But if you are losing a few volts at the coils due to parasitic losses in the wiring, a relay might help out a lot.
One more thing - checking the voltage at the coils while cranking the engine over wouldn't give you a very accurate reading. The starter motor takes a lot of power.
Has anyone done Mr. Matchless's Ignition Coil Relay mod? It sounds like this could be my problem. I have spark, but I don't really know if it is weak or not.
I have done this. I doubt tho its your problem. Dip carbs blow out with carb clean. While these are soaking, have you checked your valve clearances? Compression, fuel, and spark... Holy trinity my friend..
I have done this. I doubt tho its your problem. Dip carbs blow out with carb clean. While these are soaking, have you checked your valve clearances? Compression, fuel, and spark... Holy trinity my friend..
I have not yet. The bike is being stored at a friends house about an hour away, that's why I am speculating so much and the times that I have to work on it have been rushed.
I know it has spark, how ever I don't know if it weak or strong. The carbs were rebuilt, however I don't know if it was done properly. Haven't checked compression will check over the next weekend and adjust valves if needed.
I am in the middle of the carb rebuild on my 1982 GS 650. One of the valve seats was missing the screen. How essential are these? Should I worry about it and try to track down another?
I am in the middle of the carb rebuild on my 1982 GS 650. One of the valve seats was missing the screen. How essential are these? Should I worry about it and try to track down another?
I've come across bikes that were running fine without screens on any of the seats, but they're cheap enough that there's no reason not to have them. Especially if you've recently cleaned your tank. It's cheap insurance. Z1 Enterprises has them.
I've come across bikes that were running fine without screens on any of the seats, but they're cheap enough that there's no reason not to have them. Especially if you've recently cleaned your tank. It's cheap insurance. Z1 Enterprises has them.
Thanks Hardline, I found them on there for $5 each. Good thing I only need one. I am rebuilding 2 sets of 4 carbs at the same time so I will just swap parts of one to make the other complete then order all the parts that I need.
I know it has been said before, but always verify what the PO says and don't assume the work they did is good or that it was done recently. The PO said he rebuilt the carbs so I thought that was one less thing that I had to do. I believe that he did however I don't think his kit came with all the proper orings and I have no idea how long it sat with gas in it after he did the rebuild because it was nasty in there. One carb especially was bad full of corrosion and green stuff. I also found a redneck repair inside, although it seems to be well done and not affecting functionality so I am going to leave it.
I the plus side my new R/R came in the mail today, it is a lot bigger than I though. I will post dimensions later if it will help anyone. Also let me know if you need to know anything more about it physically before you order one yourself. The unit I got is a SH775BA, it come off of a 2013 Polaris with only 400 something miles on it. I nabbed it off Ebay for $40 shipped! In the second picture I am test fitting the female spade connector I plan on using to wire it up. It is a very snug fit and should insure good contact and not come loose. I know people usually silicone in the connectors, which I might do. The other thing I was thinking was pack it with dielectric grease, but that would probably just attract dirt and grime, so silicone is probably the way to go.
I have done this. I doubt tho its your problem. Dip carbs blow out with carb clean. While these are soaking, have you checked your valve clearances? Compression, fuel, and spark... Holy trinity my friend..
I rebuilt my carbs with the kit from cycleorings.com, pretty straight forward and painless (other than my wife complaining that our apartment smelled like gas and insisting on me taking them outside)... ok I will admit it was a bit fumey.
I plan on adjusting the valves, I have seen a few youtube videos, but I was wondering if there is a good write up out there with specs and all? Are the specs different depending on the cc motor 650/750 ect..
I want to say that all the 2 valve Suzuki's of the era have the same specs (although the 4 valve bikes are different). Of course, a service manual would be the perfect thing to check.
That being said, the tolerances are most likely .03mm-.08mm for intake and exhaust. If your exhaust clearances end up a little over that .08mm though, that's ok too. There are a bunch of GS owners that set the exhaust valves at .10 mm.
any more at that price? put up the link...
also, i'd stay away from silicone. especially if it has a slight oder of vinegar, its very acidic and will do more harm to the metal connections than good. Nothing beats shrink tube... cheaply found at harbor freight... or cover in electrical tape and then silicone or goop over that....
any more at that price? put up the link...
also, i'd stay away from silicone. especially if it has a slight oder of vinegar, its very acidic and will do more harm to the metal connections than good. Nothing beats shrink tube... cheaply found at harbor freight... or cover in electrical tape and then silicone or goop over that....
The seller I bought it from was az_cycle_parts_phx I don't see any at that price right now, but you could message him and see if he has anymore or tell him to notify you if he gets in any more. I think it is a motorcycle/atv salvage business.
So I threw the set of carbs that I rebuilt back on the first bike, and got everything temporally hooked up just to see it if it would run properly. Once I got everything back together I went to turn the key.... and nothing... I checked voltage at my brand new, freshly charged battery and I had 1.3V. So I swapped back in one of my old batteries that had 11.87V and still nothing, not even instrument lights. By this time I had been eaten alive by mosquitoes, I knew it had to be something simple, but I was done for the night.
Next time I went out I checked the fuses and sure enough one of them was blown. I grabbed a 15A off my other bike and power was restored.
I cranked it over and after a few seconds it fired up!! It was running good, but the choke cable was sticking and it didn't really want to idle. So I still need to adjust the idle screw and lube up the choke rod, but at least I know it runs well. It has a pretty bad oil leak from the bottom cover so I am going to take care of that, change the oil, get everything put back properly and hopefully I can have it on the road.
I swear I have seen this information before but I have just been looking for over an hour and I can't find exactly what I need. I am looking for the exact pin out diagram for a SH755 regulator. From what I understand the black connector on the right the outer pin is ground the in her pen is positive which I assume you get from the Redwire on the refectory connector And ground can come straight from the battery.
The left great connector has three pins, I understand that those are supposed to be from the stator however one of my factory stator wires does not go to the factory regulator connector, It goes into the wiring harness.
There is also a white wire with an orange traceur that comes from the wiring harness into the factory regulator connector. What should I do with that?
Have you checked on Basscliff's site? I know it's around somewhere.....
As far as one of the wires on the left connector goes (that go to the stator) - the stock wiring goes thru the headlight switch. I think Suzuki assumed that you would only need all 3 wires to charge the battery when the headlight was turned on. Everybody skips that connection now so that it charges all the time.
In the past I have spent a lot of time on basscliffs site, Perhaps that's where I saw it. The headlight switch elimination definitely rings a bell.
I am just driving home right now so I will look when I get home. I had a couple spare hours today so I decided to work on the bike but unfortunately I just wasted all that time looking for the wiring diagrams.
It seems like the left connector gets the three wires from the stator in no particular order and you just don't use the wire from the factory connector that goes to the wiring harness if I understand you correctly.
It's been a good while since I did any GS wiring, so don't think I'm absolutely correct and fry something..... but the 3 wires from the stator will go directly to the R/R (any wire to any wire between each component, doesn't matter). As far as the other wires on the SH755, I'll see if I can dig anything up tonight and post back here.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
