Hagon shock question.

TijmenK

Been Around the Block
I can get a set of Hagons in the correct lenght for 30 bucks, problems is I don't know what bike it was used on and I'm 99% sure both me (130ish lbs) and my bike (220ish) lbs will be quite a bit lighter than it was dialed in for. Can I adjust them for this difference or are they sealed units with a limited amount of adjustment?


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I'm having issues with my clutch, I shortened the cable and it doesn't disengage anymore. It seems to me clutch plates don't come apart far enough anymore, but I'm completely stumped so I'll just list what I did and what it does:


- I didn't touch any of the engine innards, it without oil for about a week, though.
- I shortened the cable, I trimmed of the same amount of the inner and outer cable. The inner cable is still approx. 3 inches longer than the outer cable.
- The clutch arm is in roughly the same position, I didn't document it but judging by the scratches on the engine case it can't be off by much.
- The lever is still exactly the same.
- There is the slightest bit of pre-tension on the clutch cable, one turn of the adjusting bolt and it would have a mm of play.


- In neutral gear the wheel spins freely.
- I can shift through the gears both with and without using the clutch.
- Without touching the clutch lever I can't spin the wheel at all.
- With the clutch lever all the way to the grips I can spin the wheel, but it has a lot of resistance, not nearly as free as in neutral.


Am I just being an ass and should it still have resistance when using the clutch? This is my first and only bike, so I have no reference or experience. Should I start it in neutral to warm it up and have the oil warm up and flow around a bit? Am I missing something very obvious? Took a pic of the clutch arm because that's the only thing I'm not sure of being in the stock position:

Obligatory hipster filter shot.
 
Re: Clutch problems.

There will be some resistance even with the clutch pulled.
What happens when the motor is running and you try to put it in gear? If the motor has sat non running some time, the clutch may take a few runs to break in, even with used clutch plates.
Make sure the clutch is adjusted as per the manual.
 
Re: Clutch problems.

As the previous poster says.....once in gear, there will be considerable resistance with the clutch pulled, because you are now turning the gear box internals, and the centre of the clutch. If you then can't move the wheel with the clutch lever released, then it sounds like the clutch is at least operating. You are not going to find out how well untill you run it up.
 
Re: Clutch problems.

Thanks guys! I'll start her in neutral and see what happens when I shift down. I'll also check how it compares to resistance of my dad's XS650 rear-wheel when I'm there, just to get a general idea.
 
In an effort to reduce the clutter caused by my questions I'll just bump this with a new question. :)
 
Thread clutter isn't that big of a deal, really. Old stuff gets pushed to the bottom of the pile anyway.

Regarding your shocks: call up the folks at Hagon. I believe the damping rates are set internally for each model shock, and it's the springs themselves that vary with weight load. The good news is that Hagon shocks are rebuildable.
 
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