TijmenK
Been Around the Block
I can get a set of Hagons in the correct lenght for 30 bucks, problems is I don't know what bike it was used on and I'm 99% sure both me (130ish lbs) and my bike (220ish) lbs will be quite a bit lighter than it was dialed in for. Can I adjust them for this difference or are they sealed units with a limited amount of adjustment?
I'm having issues with my clutch, I shortened the cable and it doesn't disengage anymore. It seems to me clutch plates don't come apart far enough anymore, but I'm completely stumped so I'll just list what I did and what it does:
- I didn't touch any of the engine innards, it without oil for about a week, though.
- I shortened the cable, I trimmed of the same amount of the inner and outer cable. The inner cable is still approx. 3 inches longer than the outer cable.
- The clutch arm is in roughly the same position, I didn't document it but judging by the scratches on the engine case it can't be off by much.
- The lever is still exactly the same.
- There is the slightest bit of pre-tension on the clutch cable, one turn of the adjusting bolt and it would have a mm of play.
- In neutral gear the wheel spins freely.
- I can shift through the gears both with and without using the clutch.
- Without touching the clutch lever I can't spin the wheel at all.
- With the clutch lever all the way to the grips I can spin the wheel, but it has a lot of resistance, not nearly as free as in neutral.
Am I just being an ass and should it still have resistance when using the clutch? This is my first and only bike, so I have no reference or experience. Should I start it in neutral to warm it up and have the oil warm up and flow around a bit? Am I missing something very obvious? Took a pic of the clutch arm because that's the only thing I'm not sure of being in the stock position:
Obligatory hipster filter shot.
I'm having issues with my clutch, I shortened the cable and it doesn't disengage anymore. It seems to me clutch plates don't come apart far enough anymore, but I'm completely stumped so I'll just list what I did and what it does:
- I didn't touch any of the engine innards, it without oil for about a week, though.
- I shortened the cable, I trimmed of the same amount of the inner and outer cable. The inner cable is still approx. 3 inches longer than the outer cable.
- The clutch arm is in roughly the same position, I didn't document it but judging by the scratches on the engine case it can't be off by much.
- The lever is still exactly the same.
- There is the slightest bit of pre-tension on the clutch cable, one turn of the adjusting bolt and it would have a mm of play.
- In neutral gear the wheel spins freely.
- I can shift through the gears both with and without using the clutch.
- Without touching the clutch lever I can't spin the wheel at all.
- With the clutch lever all the way to the grips I can spin the wheel, but it has a lot of resistance, not nearly as free as in neutral.
Am I just being an ass and should it still have resistance when using the clutch? This is my first and only bike, so I have no reference or experience. Should I start it in neutral to warm it up and have the oil warm up and flow around a bit? Am I missing something very obvious? Took a pic of the clutch arm because that's the only thing I'm not sure of being in the stock position:
Obligatory hipster filter shot.