Help with Honda CJ360T Carburetor settings

bluesilver

New Member
Not a bad idea there, i have a few cans of carb cleaner on the shelf, will give that a try.
Now just have to find what the correct fuel level height with the clear tube is and i should be half way there.
 

bluesilver

New Member
Thanks again for the replies and video.
Yes i am using the stock air filters and box, nothing has been modified.
I have a brand new old stock needle and sets coming as i think on my original one the springs are a tad weak as they aren't as springy as the one in the video.
I did have a full set of after market needles . seats , seals, but from what i have heard it is best not to use them as they are not quiet correct.
So going back to the original parts minus the needle and seat as they were a bit damaged when i removed them.
I think also the syncing is off as mentioned, i will take another look at that also.
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
Thanks again for the replies and video.
Yes i am using the stock air filters and box, nothing has been modified.
I have a brand new old stock needle and sets coming as i think on my original one the springs are a tad weak as they aren't as springy as the one in the video.
I did have a full set of after market needles . seats , seals, but from what i have heard it is best not to use them as they are not quiet correct.
So going back to the original parts minus the needle and seat as they were a bit damaged when i removed them.
I think also the syncing is off as mentioned, i will take another look at that also.
I agree, I try to re-use all factory brass. Only replace float needles and seats, same as your doing. Ensure the "wishbone" shaped springs are installed correctly. They have a slight bow to them so they keep float valve seat seated properly. Otherwise the float valve seat can slip out just enough to reek havoc to float levels. Another thing to look for is worn Slide seats. (the short tube the slide needle fits into can get egg shaped). Allowing fuel to pass when slide needle is all the way down and too much fuel when slide rises. Ill search for some more of my links and what not. Use a chopstick to press them out if they need to be changed out or cleaned up.
 

bluesilver

New Member
Thanks heaps for those two links, a lot of great detailed information in there.
Looks like i have a few things to check, first is those wish bone springs, I didn't even realize or notice that they have a slight curve to them, so i have a 50 / 50 chance that i either got them installed correctly or incorrectly, a very good point to start at.
I will also check out these slide seats, another thing i didn't look at.
I have just been doing a search on this needle and can't seam to find a part number for it ( just in case i do need to replace them )
Do you by any chance have the part number for these?
I have yet to try and push these out, I take it that they would come out fairly easily?
Great information,
Appreciated.
 

bluesilver

New Member
Hi, I am just looking for any more suggestions on might be going wrong here.
I have got the carbs all back together with brand new factory needle and seats.
Set floats to 20mm, air fuel mixtures 2 turns out, bench synced both carbs to around .35mm
Started up ok after a few kicks from cold and no choke.
But as it warmed up just a tad and when i blip the throttle, the revs shots up to and hang at around 3K.
I adjusted the idle a bit to bring the revs down, but still hangs up around 3K when you blip the throttle.
I did once or twice get a little pop sound from the exhaust.

One thing that i have done and forgot about is i had to weld up the and change the rear tip section of the exhaust a bit as it was pretty much rusted off ( Single exhaust on the CJ360T ) but i don't think that would be causing me any issues would it?

Not sure if i am too lean or too rich though, it did stall on me due to low revs and once it did that i couldn't get it to fire up again, so park it back in the shed for now.

Should i be possibly be looking at making two more felt washers for the butterfly shafts?

Any other suggestions of ideas would be appreciated on what might be going on here.
Carburetors are Keihin 759A
 
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trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
If it starts cold with no choke its too rich.

Sounds like its getting air it doesn't need from somewhere???

Are the insulators in good shape or old/hard/cracked?

Are the diaphragms in good shape or are they old factory equipment or new after markets?

Did you have filters and boxes installed when it would hang around 3krpm?

carb linkages and throttle cable lubed up and working smooth.
 

bluesilver

New Member
Yes it starts cold with no choke, takes a few kicks though to get to that stage.
I read somewhere that it should fire up without choke, sounds a tad odd, but that is what i have been doing.
The insulators are all brand new, ( the two rubber boots from the engine to the carburetors )
I did use some red gasket silicon on them thinking this will stop and air leaks.
I have now gone back and removed these, removed all that red gasket silicon, sanded the boots dead flat and reinstalled with just the standard gaskets only.

The diaphragms are the originals and look pretty good.
I did have the lid of the diaphragms stuck down with that Honda bond, again, just to stop any air leaks if there was any.
I have also gone back and removed this Honda bond, sanded the lids and the base of the diaphragms dead flat and reinstalled with no Honda bond.
When you blow through them, you can here them lifting up and down.

I hand the stock air filters and air boxes installed evetime i fired it it up.

All linkages and cables appear to be running nice and smooth with no sticking or dragging points.

I have yet to go back and fire it back up after i did these couple of things to see if they made any difference yet though, kind of get a tad frustrated with it and put it back in the shed for a bit.

I think i will look and see if i can find a new set of needle, spring, washer for the air / fuel needle.
I have been playing around trying to find a tighter sealing o ring washer as i am just thinking that this could possibly be an area that might be causing mw some of the issues.

I have some of those after market ones, but when i out them in they just didn't feel right and felts as if the o ring washer was going in too easy if that makes sense.

If it starts cold with no choke because it is too rich as you mentioned, i guess i could set the floats a bit lower, something like 21 or 22mm perhaps?
 
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