Help with seat upholstery!

NBraun

Been Around the Block
Hey guys i need some help trying to figure out the sewing parts of my seat.
HgqEOIQl.jpg


I'd like copy this seat fairly close. It appears that the whole cowl is wrapped but i don't really want to do that.
Is there any walkthroughs or something like that which shows how to cut the templates and such? I think i could do the sewing part fairly decent.

Any help is appreciated!
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBLzLdivsd0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMJPedK-2ck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eemycd3eg7s

If you're not wrapping the entire seat, you'll need to make a plastic or metal pan to the shape you desire. As far as planning out the seams, just figure out where you want them and, draw it out to scale on paper and leave 1/2" or so for seam allowance.

Make sure to use a good pad + 1/2" or 3/4" Screed foam sewn to the seat material. If you do not use Screed foam your pleats will be flat and look like doggy doo doo.

The Ichiban way is always more BAD ASS though..
 
Thanks guys! Honestly dont know how I missed some of them.

I already have a steel pan bent up, just gotta learn the sewing part! Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is screed foam?
 
It's a foam used for backing of the seat covering material. Notice the difference between the seat you posted and the Ichiban seat, the seat you posted probably has something like 1/2" screed foam sewn behind the leather and thats what gives it those high and lows between pleats. The Ichiban seat has less than 1/4" of some garbage packing foam behind it haha, but it is BAD ASS and was sewn with a jet needle..
 
Just for a little more clarity, screened foam has fabric glued to one side. This keeps the thread from pulling through the foam. All the sewing places I went to didn't have it. Probably have to buy a piece from an upholstery shop.

I ended up using two layers of headliner foam (which has fabric on it) but I wouldn't recommend it as the foam isn't dense enough.

photo.JPG

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=36857.405

It looks like the seat in your pic has 1/2 inch foam and probably double stitched lines to make the "valleys" of the pleats a little wider.
 
Ok! I think im getting a fairly Decent idea on how to do it. As for the sides, on the seat I posted there isnt much of a side, which I kind of planned, but with that one would I just leave extra fabric around the top template and just wrap it around the pan? Or will I have to cut a side piece? If so how do I get the right curve to the side piece? Aside from that I think im good to gov it a try.
 
Finish your seat pan, your foam, and any attachment mechanisms before you think of sewing. Then get yourself some clear polypro dropsheet material (clear is nicer than newspaper or cardboard since you can see through it).

1)Take a sharpie to your foam and draw out where you want/need your seams to be.
2)Lay the clear plastic on the seat, hold it in place somehow (loops of tape, some spray adhesive, whatever) and trace the pattern of the seams on to the plastic.
3)Take the plastic off the seat and lay it flat on a table and true it up. When I say true, make lines that should be straight straight, curves that should be curves even, and make things symmetrical.
4)Give yourself alignment marks along the seams that you transfer to the various patterns. This way when you sew 2 pieces together they are lined up along the length of the seam and you don't wander, which causes problems.
5)Add your seam allowances to your patterns. This is how far to the waste side of the needle you want your fabric to be. For most things I use a 5/8" seam allowance, and trim it down later. 5/8 allows for a wide or narrow french/single reinforced seam should you want one.
6)Sew it up, being extremely careful to keep your seam allowance consistent and proper the whole way through, or you'll create some panels smaller and some larger, making your seams wavy and your cover alternatingly tight and sloppy.

Tips :

Use a long stitch. You may think that a tight stitch is stronger, but it is not. A tight stitch length puts more holes in the vinyl/leather, perforating it like a tear off piece of paper.

Go slow. If you can only manage to align the materials and spin the machine by hand then so be it, go at that speed. Focus on how exact you're being and not how fast you're going

Use a walking foot machine if you can. This is by and large the #1 thing you can do to make upholstery easier.



If you have any questions ask away, and be specific, I'll try to help the best I can. I sew a lot of auto upholstery for my business.
 
Thanks! That helps alot! Im sure ill have some more questions, but ill need to get to that point first.
 
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