Honda CB200 Problems

alec.korver

alec.korver

Been Around the Block
Hey, I just set my timing and I have all that stuff set, however I fire up my bike and the right cylinder is misfiring. It sounds as if it is stumbling over itself. While the left cylinder is running strong. I bench synced my carbs as well. Reading my plugs, my mixture is good as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
I have the same issue with my CB200 and have come across a handful of others across the net who are similarly stumped. I'm determined to get it sorted this year.

Try cleaning your plugs and swapping your ignition wires around. If the problem switches to the other cylinder, the coil is delivering weak spark, you have a bad wire, cap or spark plug. You can also get an ignition spark tester and check the arc length. From what I understand, a bad coil will typically deliver weak spark to one side. They tend to act up when they get hot also.
 
Yep, no luck with that... Still running weak on one side. I have tried adjusting my float heights to different heights in increments of 1mm and that has not changed the problem either. I am VERY stumped on this one. The only things left to check on my bike would be

1. Valve/Rocker Arm Clearence
2. Carb Synch
3. Needle Jet setting (I have also been playing with this)
4. Swapping the carb from the left side to the right side and see if there is any improvement. *I am hoping this is the case* otherwise my problems lie within my valves or cylinders. Which I have a new top end... so that should not be the case.
5. Check the exhaust, Possible obstruction?
 
Maybe make a list of all the stuff you've done. There are a LOT of possible causes that I can think of. I just skimmed your build thread again...I see you had the top end done up with new pistons and rings but did you take a look at the valves? Did you lap them in or see if they were leaking? This would be my approach:

Make sure the engine is sound mechanically. Make your tappet adjustments then do a leak-down test and see how bad the cylinders are leaking. Next isolate the problem to fuel or spark. If you are absolutely sure you are getting good spark to both cylinders - try swapping the carbs.

I wouldn't fiddle with the carbs themselves too much. As long as they are clean, the floats are set correctly [and not leaking], and the air screw is 1.25 turns out you should be idling without any major stumbling [unless the sync is WAY off].

Good luck. I'm watching this!
 
Yep, I installed new valves and had them lapped in, while my cylinder was out being honed, I also did the kerosene test after I got my valves back to see if they were leaking. New gaskets all around, new oversize piston and rings, polished head, I cleaned out everything with kerosene then lubed all my parts really well. Set my cam chain timing, Set my spark advance timing using a static timing light (Both as per the manuals instructions on a rebuild). New oil, Cleaned and soaked the carbs in carb cleaner a while back, carb rebuild kit. *I was thinking that could be my problem, as the needles look slightly different* My slides move freely so that is not the problem, my cable is in fine enough shape. Spark plugs are new. Coil is new. Battery is new. Plug wires are new.

So....

Compression *Check*
Spark *Check*

I also have good fuel flow from my tank, there is no rust, and I have rebuilt my petcock. So my problem should somehow be related to my carbs.... Or possibly tappet adjustment as I do not have the proper gauge to measure the height currently.

Things that would cause my bike to perform differently on a mixture level.

PO put on new mufflers
PO Removed the airbox and switched to some cheap pods

However my left side carb is running quite strong and is giving me good spark plug readings. So my problem is currently Isolated to the right cylinder. I have tried swapping plug wires and that made no difference in the slightest. So I am assuming that my problem must either be my tappet is way off, or something with my right carb is way off.

When I originally bought the bike, I ran and drove over 40mph, but the right cylinder was definitely not running as strong as the left one.
 
Well I just found my tester after I had lost it and just checked.... Something is definitely not right.


Left Cylinder reading - 100
Right Cylinder reading - 0


Can anybody shed some light as to why this might be? Especially after a top end rebuild?
 
You mentioned that valves haven't been adjusted and that would definitely cause a problem. If they are out of adjustment enough, then they can get broken through contact with the piston. Setting the lash isn't a step you can skip just because you don't have the correct tools.
 
Well, I will have to set the tappet then.... I did have the engine apart earlier this week when I was replacing my chain tensioner. I checked my valves again to make sure they looked okay after I had fired up my engine. They did look fine. But I will get what tool I need and set my tappet.
 
I picked up a feeler gauge, and it seems that my intake tappet on the right cylinder is too tight. I am guessing that it is holding the valve open then causing it to have no compression.
 
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