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I've just fitted a new ricks electrical regulator/rectifier for my 1972 Honda CB350 twin, it seemed straight forward enough.
However after installing it I noticed there was still a white wire connected to the round 7 way connector going into the wiring harness.
I've looked at the wiring diagram on here and it looks to go to the headlight main beam switch?
Can anyone tell me where I've gone wrong? Or do I just disconnect this front he harness?
IIRC, there was an odd feature on the bike from the factory that limited power out of the alternator unless the high beams were on. With high beams off, only power from yellow wire was put through. When high beams were on power would come from both white and yellow wires. Most people tie the white and yellow wires together when they re-wire to boost charging ability.
Correct. Yellow and white from the stator get spliced together and run directly to the rectifier. No need for the wiring runs to/from the handlebars anymore.
Thanks but we may be getting our wires crossed, the white wire I have comes from the light switch, the 3 wire from the stator match up through a 4 way connector straight to the new ricks reg/rectifier.
So the white wire from the switch which is still in the 7 way plug gets removed or spliced into the yellow stator wire?
Sorry to repeat the question but if I splice the yellow and white wire from the stator together then id have a free wire from the reg/rec that won't be connected to anything.
3 white wire on ricks R/R then pos & neg to the battery.
Then 3 wires from the stator and one green brown from the 7 way connector.
No yellow wires, only from the stator.
After removing the original regulator which is now redundant there is a yellow and green wire which is part of the original loom which I plan to cut off the tails and tape up, I'm just not sure with the white wire going to the light switch as not sure if this would affect the voltage to the rest of the wiring circuit when the headlight main beam is turned on/off.
It may be worth mentioning that I plan to keep the electric start.
Quick update on bike progress.
Removed the spare wires after fitting the R/R. Got the bike back together but now won't start.
After checking the points gap I now noticed that I only have a spark on the RHS points with no spark at all on the LHS.
Could this be related to the ricks R/R fitment? Or just coincidence?
Not sure but I've ordered new condensers and LHS points on the safe side. I've checked the coils and seems to be giving good resistance so can only think its either the condenser, points to the ricks R/R?
Anyone else had this problem?
Any help is greatly received.
OK first test ride since fitting ricks R/R and the battery was dead within 20 yards down the road! Not even the neutral light was lit.
Any suggestions anyone?
I've e-mailed Ricks but no reply just yet.
Help desperately needed guys.
Thanks in advance.
the 3 white wires from rick RR are going to the 3 wires from the stator, the 4 the wire from the stator ( neutral) goes to the green neutral from the original 7 way connector and then there are 1 black & 1 red from ricks RR for the battery.
Thats it.
The instructions from ricks RR states it doesn't matter which 3 wires from the alternator go to any of the 3 white wires from the RR, which makes sense as none of Ricks RR white wires are labelled any way.
Seven way connector? There should only be four wires coming from the alternator. The yellow, white, and pink go to the Rick's unit. The remaining green/red wire is the neutral light and should be connected to the same color wire in the harness.
The red wire from the unit goes to the battery's positive terminal and the black wire should be for ground.
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