How does one go about learning how to paint?

m511y

Less is more
My only real experience with paint other than paying a professional has been in the form of a spray can. I know that the most important part of painting is prep work. I'm fairly familiar when it comes to prep after making a few tanks with knee dents I have been happy with. My next step in the learning process is to try to comprehend what goes into a professional paint job.
My plan is to pick up an air compressor specifically for painting. How many gallons are recommended? I'm also planning on building a makeshift paint booth so my work won’t be contaminated. I know how to clean a piece before paint, and how to apply filler, glazing putty, spot putty, and sanding, but I don't know where to start after that.

What spray gun works well but is a reasonable cost?
What brand and kinds of paint work well?
How much paint is needed for a tank and seat?
How many coats?
What grit sandpaper to sand with to get rid of orange peeling?
How many coats of clear?
What to wet sand with?
And I'm assuming I'm probably missing a few steps along the way.

Paint is something I want to start doing, but I don't want to invest the time and money in to something I know nothing about. I have always had serious respect for body work because I am much more mechanical than artistic in nature, but I want to learn.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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These seem like excellent questions, I hope someone knowledgable will answer, at least some of them.
 
Id love to see this question answered. I have a lot of the same questions myself and this seems as if it could be a good resource for people searching the forum with painting questions.
Please point out if i have missed it, but i think a thread about painting with a gun and compressor to compliment the rattle can bling thread would be brilliant!
 
I hope someone chimes in as well but from what Ive read and researched myself, theres no step by step. Youre going to get one person who does it one way and another who does it another. Hopefully the basic idea will be the same as Im lookign to do some painting in the future as well.
 
I'll try to answer what I can.. I have painted a couple cars and paint boats at our family marina/boatyard..

In regards to your compressor, I would say anything above a 20ga will be good. You dont want to loose air pressure midway through a spray job cause it will splatter paint everywhere with big drops of paint instead of atomizing it. But bigger is always nicer!


What spray gun works well but is a reasonable cost? For what you're going to be doing, a above bottom line gun will work. I prefer top feeders because they spray until the hopper is empty. I would say about a $50-100 is a good starting point for a gun. The guns they sell at Advance Auto and the like aren't bad, just wouldn't recommend getting anything from Harbor Freight.

What brand and kinds of paint work well? This depends on the application and how much you want to spend. For boats and for long lasting and very strong paint we use AwlGrip paint. It's expensive and doesn't come in many colors but its great stuff. Its almost double the price but its worth the investment. The way it works is the wax is engineered to stay throughout the paint so i never needs waxing. This is unlike normal paints that the wax comes to the surface and when that wears away you're left with dull looking paint and then you have to wax it to keep that shine. AwlCraft is the lower tier paint and comes in all kinds of colors, metallics, etc. But its like a normal auto type paint so its not as durable. You can paint your Awlcraft color and then clear over with a Awlgrip clear and you get the best of both worlds. Two part paints are the best for shine/hardness because when they start to cure the thinners and catalyst help the paint "lay out" and really gloss over. You can get good paint from CarQuest and they can actually mix color for you as well.

How much paint is needed for a tank and seat? The smallest amount you can get, that I know of, is a quart. This is plenty enough to paint tank, seat, side covers, fenders twice if you know what your doing. So a quart is plenty, and your looking at around 50 to a 100 a pop for paint alone. Not including the catalyst(hardener) and thinner(this helps it lay out better, but dont thin it too much)

How many coats? Depends on what your going for and what your painting. Pearl is very difficult to paint(never done it mysefl but I have been told) because its a lot of coats of different paints. For a regular job, I typically do anywhere from 3-5 coats. You have to watch out though because the more coats you put the greater chance the paint will want to sag/run. Always let it tack up before the next coat. If you are doing a solid color and want a wet look, dont just spray more clear over it. On your last 2-3 coats wein off the color with the clear. Like coat 3 use 50% color 50% clear in your mix, then the next coat do 25% color and 75% clear then on your last coat 100% clear. This will give it a deep look to it if it is done right.

What grit sandpaper to sand with to get rid of orange peeling? This depends on what the paint requires. We use 320gt for final sanding and prep work. You dont want too rough because you will see the scratches when you paint and you dont want too fine because the paint might not stick well and will flake off eventually. Orange peeling is not a prepwork cause, its from painting too much paint with not enough layup time. Too much paint and when it starts to cure it shrinks and causes the peel like surface. Best way to paint if you have the time and patience would be paint sand paint sand paint sand, etc but I think on small surfaces like tanks adn seats you can just wet sand 1000-2000 grit paper when painting is done and cured(think a week after painting) then buff it out to a ballin shine.

How many coats of clear? see above. The paints we use don't require clears but I have used it bfore. I usually do 1 or 2 depending if I like the first coat or not. If it doesn't look like it covered well and wet then I'l hit it again. Also, you can wait for the base color to cure, sand it to remove any orange peel. then paint the clear over with a couple coats using the wein off if you want or just spray on the clear.

What to wet sand with? For after painting to buff, I would suggest 1000-2000gt paper and keep the surface wet..

And I'm assuming I'm probably missing a few steps along the way. Yes, I didn't see anything about priming. This is the fundamental first step that is the building block of a great paint job. Don't skimp here, get a quality primer, two part primers are best. But use whatever the brand paint your using suggests too. When priming, lay it on thick because you will be sanding 90% of it off. Then spray the primer again. This time before you sand, mist it with regular old black lacquer spraycan paint. This way when you go to sand it, when all the black is off you know you sanded enough, also you know what you sand and don't miss any spots. I can post pictures of this if you need me too if you don't understand.

Good rule of painting, if you have a shitty prep job, your priming will look crappy. And when your priming looks crappy your apint will definitely show it.



Hope this answered a few questions..
 
Are bottom feeding guns crappy to work with? Is it mostly the fact that they waste paint? I've got one but have never used it, but have contemplated getting a top feeding one if it's going to be a pain in the ass.
 
No I used them for one of the cars I painted an d some boat hulls.. They just leave some paint at the bottom of the can, I find that when you tilt the gun around and have a lot of paint in the can, it likes to dribble out the top and makes a mess. I also find in my opinion they aren't as manuverable as a top feeder, but if all you are doing is motorcycle parts you will be plenty fine since you will be shooting mostly horizontally. They don't really "waste" paint, they just can't suck up everything at the bottom. If you have one, use it man! They are just as good, just be aware of how much paint you put in the can so it doesn't leak out. They shoot just the same man.. Go practice with it with some one part enamel paint on some sheet of metal or something..
 
Have you ever painted before? There is really more too it than just pulling the trigger...
 
Alright, well when I get off watch tonight I'll write up some tips and how to's for you.. I don't have time to write it up currently.
 
Much appreciated. I've read lots of good stuff in here and on the SOHC4 forum but more info is always welcome.
 
These bikes were painted in my garage with touch up gun. I like these better as I was tossing more paint then I was shooting with a larger bottom feed gun.
I used a cheap gun like this - http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-detail-spray-gun-46719.html


I also used a cheap $6 inline filter and spent $35 on a air mask. I have a smallish (25 gal?) craftsman compressor.


I used a cheap water filter at the compressor and one of these at the gun http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12E0M49672&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Applicators-_-9SIA12E0M49672



I used masks like this one - http://www.amazon.com/MSA-Safety-Works-817662-Respirator/dp/B0009XAIGY/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3




It really isn't that hard or expensive to do a good job. Plus if it comes out bad, just sand and start over.


Spray heavy build primer, let cure, wet sand it to 400 grit.


Light coats for the color - 4 or 5 total.


medium for the clear, last one on the wet/heavy side to give a good gloss. They make different reducers for different temps, so plan right if it is going to be hot or cold out when you paint.


Hard part is resisting the urge to assemble right away. Let it cure then in a week or more wet sand it to 2000 grit.


I painted in a 1 car garage attached to my house. Smelled up the house and made a mess in the garage. I used plastic to cover areas and used a sprayer to wet the floor and walls to keep the dust down.



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I painted a few other street bikes, but I don't have pictures of them. I moved and lost the place to paint. Inow have a 3 car garage, but my bedroom is right over it, and I now have kids, so I can't stink up the place like I used to.
 
Rusnak makes some good points, but to add/modify some of his points.. Touch up guns are nice for small jobs and they may well be just fine with motorcycle parts but some times paint needs to be atomized well to get the best lay and small guns sometimes just don't put out enough air and paint to get the job done. But should be fine with MC parts. (I'm used to painting 20-40ft boats haha... so i tend to lean on bigger side haha) Also, if you do everything right with your prep, paint, and spray you shouldn't have to wet sand. Best finish will always be fresh paint unsanded, you wont have tiny "scratches" from the sandpaper on the finish it will just look like a wet, colored mirror. Those bikes look grand too by the way! Good job mang


I'm currently writing this up, so it's gong to be a bit lengthy...
 
[size=12pt]Painting 201[/size]

For these purposes we are using a two part paint and then a clear. We will be using a HPLV (high pressure low volume) air gun.

I'm going to start with after you have prepped, primed, sanded the piece to paint. At this time you should lightly wipe the piece down with a clean rag and a little thinner (non-petrol type aka not mineral spirits). Be sure not to wipe too hard or have the rag too wet because if you didn't use a two part primer it may wipe it off and thats never good so be careful. Test a small area first. Next, time to mix the paint, follow the directions that come with that paint as it differs from brand to brand (Awlgrip is a 1:1:1 paint:thinner:reducer[catalyst] and International is 6:1 paint:catalyst). Some paints require you to let the paint sit after you mix it up for 20 mins or so, use this time to get everything ready to spray.

Pre-Paint

When the compressor is filled up you should drain whatever condensation is in the tank because water droplets under paint are not good. Next you can unwind your hose if not already done, untwist it and get all of the assholes(kinks) in the line, you don’t want to have the hose get hung up during a spray and it causes the gun to stop or move close and you have a run on your hands. Not cool either. Another thing, if you invested in one(and you should if you are considering painting more) hook up your water separator/air filter to the compressor then the hose, once again water and paint aren't friends in this process this isn't latex paint. Next, put some thinner in your gun hopper, swish it around, and spray it out (away from your painting piece) turn your nozzles(paint adjustment and tip setting[fan/spot]) to make sure everything is working. Also, I like to use a piece of plywood to practice on before shooting, use the thinner to get your fan setting right(fan for flatter surfaces, spot for tubes, frames, tight spots) and get everything in a good "ball park" area, don't want to piss away paint adjusting your gun. Lastly, and I could have missed something in your case so this is flexible, you need to get a tack cloth (get them from any hardware, Lowes, etc.) and wipe the parts down to remove any dust or rag particles that may have settled on it since you wiped it down.

Paint mixing

From here you are ready to start spraying. First, give your paint a good stir before you go to pour it in the gun, some metallic paints will settle a little. Use a paint strainer when pouring from the mixing cup to the gun hopper to prevent large particles that may have gotten in there. You don't want that because it could clog the tip of the gun and cause it to squirt instead of spray and that's about as bad as a run...or water for that matter, not cool! When you are all loaded up, hook up your hose and since we are using a HPLV we need to set the compressor to 40-45psi sustained. I say sustained because when you pull that trigger I shouldn’t drop below what its set at so if it does, adjust it higher(might want to test this with and empty gun). Now go back to that trusty plywood and give your paint a test spray and make sure everything is kosher. Ok? It’s time for the next step.
Paint baby, paint!
For education purposes we will be painting a big flat sheet. When you are painting something, the distance from the gun to the sheet will vary depending on what you have your paint output set at, this you will have to learn with practice, but you should start by erring on the side of not enough paint coming out rather than too much. Too much paint too fast=runs, Runs=bad. Since this is a flat surface, we will set the gun tip to vertical fan. Now I usually have the gun around 8-10 inches from the sheet, once again if you are starting off err on the farther side to prevent runs. You want to keep this distance uniform, so if you are painting a curved surface like a tank you need to compensate for the curving of the tank and keep the distance right. Practice with the gun, just don’t spray until you have it down. Ok, now that we have a distance FROM the sheet we need to get the angle TO the sheet down. You want a perpendicular angle from every angle you can possible keep. So this means when you spray from left to right, you should stand in the middle of the section you are painting, and hold the gun 90 degrees both directions to the sheet. So when you go from left to right you should bend your wrist to compensate for the angle change when moving your arm. You don’t want to move your body because it’s not a smooth movement. Alright, now that you have the distance and angle methods down let’s move on to spray pattern. When you are spraying you always want to overlap what you just painted. So let’s say the gun sprays a 10 inch path, you paint your first line on the sheet, 10 inches, and your next line below should only cover 5 inches of unpainted sheet while covering 5 inches of what you just painted above. This ensures you have uniform coverage and no dry spots. You can follow the lines of the piece if you want just remember to paint with corn rows in mind, each path next to the other so you don’t miss anything. Right! So now we have distance, angle, and pattern covered (pun intended) we can go over Technique! Alrighty, now this is where practice comes in so practice with that thinner beforehand. Ok so you have this sheet to paint, you don’t want to pull the trigger on the edge of the sheet then start moving to the side. This has a higher chance of causing runs. What you should do instead is hold the gun (left to right here) hold the gun farther to the left than the piece, start moving your arm to the right while simultaneously pulling the trigger, this way the your arm is already moving (at the correct distance and angle right?) and the paint is already spraying when you GET to the sheet. And when you get to the other side of the sheet you pass the edge up THEN let go of the trigger, on the return swing (right to left) you do the same thing move, trigger, then get to the edge(remember overlap!) . If you have to stop mid spray for any reason, don’t just stop your arm and the gun at the same time, stop the gun first then you can stop your arm. You want the paint to consistently mist onto the sheet. You continue this until it is covered. Once you get a hang of it, it will be like second nature to you. Another tip while painting, hold your hose in your free hand. This will keep the hose’s location in your mind while you paint so you don’t, a) trip on it b) have it swing on to the piece being painted. Also, keep a little slack from your hand holding the hose to the gun, that way if the hose gets hung up you have a little time to react before the gun gets jerked(aka let go of the trigger in motion). By now you should be painting like a modern age Van Gough with a gun!

Coats, for pretty ladies and paint jobs

The first coat will be a little on the dry side because it’s not what is making it shine, you are just laying down a base layer. So this first coat will be light and probably won’t look shiny, but don’t fret my young grasshoppers! It will in due time… When you finish the first coat you should wait until the paint is tacky to the touch, when you touch it(and by it I mean not the actual paint, touch some tape or paper that has been painted!) you shouldn’t have any paint sticking to your finger/glove but it is still sticky. When its good and tacky you can start on your next coat. This will be a little more wet and will start to shine and reflect. Be mindful of your distance, angle, and technique as the more coats you put on the “heavier” the paint will be. Any mess up of either of those and you could put too much pain in an area and cause a run, and trust me, if you get this far and you get a run you will want to punch someone or something. So be patient, the gloss will come with coats. After each coat make sure the previous coat is tacky before spraying again. Each coat after this one will be wet coats, as in it should be shiny where you have sprayed and you shouldn't have dry, matte looking spots. But don’t go too wet or you will run, it’s a fine line, so don’t get greedy ya filthy animal! I recommend only 3 good coats of your color, if you do it right you don’t need any more as its just unnecessary. A little inside trick of the trade I’ll share with you that was passed on to me from my dad, Ronnie Sr., is mixing the clear with the paint. Let’s say we did our 3 coats of color and now we are ready for clear (mix the clear according to directions, also we are assuming the clear is the same type and brand as the color paint). Coat 4 will be a mixture of clear AND color, let’s say a 50/50 mix. Do your coat like the previous coats. The next coat, 5, will be a mix of 75/25 clear to paint, spray it. And the last coat will be just clear. This gives it a deep, wet effect to the paint which is always nice. Alright so now you are set and should by this time have a part that is painted so well it makes women flock like the salmon of Capistrano.

Clean up

Do this away from the painted piece, please! Dumb the remaining paint/clear out and pour that thinner you saved from earlier into the hopper, swish it around really well and spray it all out of the gun until its empty. Then pour some new thinner in there and repeat until you are spraying clean thinner out the gun(note Please do this away from fire, etc.) next take the gun apart(at least the tip) and wipe the gun down with thinner, reassemble and store. Clean up your mess with the paint, filters, hose, compressor, beer cans, etc. The next day, peel all the tape away and let the piece sit for a solid week to cure.


Do NOTS:
- Spray at night, the dew/humid air will make the paint blush and when that happens you might as well get the stripper or sandpaper out cause buffing wont help. (this obviously excludes those fancy people with climate controlled paint booths)
- Spray in the evening (see above)
- Spray in a windy area or on a windy day(if you are painting outside), you will have dust,pollen, bugs etc on and in the paint which will suck because you spent a lot of time on this.
- Sneeze on the wet paint
- Paint on a rainy day, moisture isn't good with curing paint, blushing will happen(excludes booths)


When I get time I'll try to add pictures to this.. Hope this helps you guys and I am no expert but I am experienced so this is what I personally do. Enjoy and go paint!
 
That's a lot of great info. One question though: As you're going from coat 3 to 4 and adding the clear into the mix, do you only wait for coat 3 to get tacky and then spray? Or do you let the base color cure before you start the clear/color mix? Thanks for the info!
 
No always wait for the previous coat to tack up before you spray. If it isn't good and tacky the paint won't be able to hold the next coat and you will cause a sag or worse a run.. If in doubt, wait a little longer to tack up. And you can go right from color to clear if you want.. Unless you are not satisfied with the color coats nd you have serious orange peel you can let it cure a week, sand it down a little a then clear it. But if not clear right after the color tacks up.

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