how to grind frame smooth?

mAd mOrdigan

Been Around the Block
this maybe a dumb question to most here.. but I've started de-tabbing my frame by cutting off the tabs with a cut wheel and then grinding down the remaining piece and/or welds with an angle grinder that has a stone type disc I guess. So now the frame is kinda wavy looking, is there a different disc or different grit disc I should use to get it smooth? I've seen those discs that have flaps of what looks like low grit sand paper.. is this what I need? sorry I'm clueless
 
A file usually does the trick. Don't try to grind it smooth; grinding is just for removing big chunks. Smoothing is done by sanding or by filing.
 
A flap wheel on the grinder works great as well.
120 grit is good for sanding frame smooth followed by some 220 grit on an orbital sander to finish it off.
 
A common Noob mistake it to go too far, removing a large amount of the tubes sidewall in order to get things "smooth". Cut the tab off close but not flush, then use your ginding wheel to just get it flush , lastly to smooth it out a file, sanding block, or a flap wheel around the radius... my tool of choice is a Scotchbrite pad in a die grinder but it take finess and if you do use a power tool, keep it moving at all times.
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But if you had to make a trip to the Tool Store to get a file, you may not have a compressor and a die grinder.
 
i have a compressor that i use for my cut wheel and angle grinder for other jobs but this is my first time doing any grinding so this is all new to me. Thanks for the input friends!
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
A common Noob mistake it to go too far, removing a large amount of the tubes sidewall in order to get things "smooth". Cut the tab off close but not flush, then use your ginding wheel to just get it flush , lastly to smooth it out a file, sanding block, or a flap wheel around the radius... my tool of choice is a Scotchbrite pad in a die grinder but it take finess and if you do use a power tool, keep it moving at all times.
100_3855.jpg



But if you had to make a trip to the Tool Store to get a file, you may not have a compressor and a die grinder.

I have a shop full of tools and no files :) that's what grinders and sanders are for haha
 
Files. Definitely. Get three while you are at it. Rat tail (round) ,flat, and half round will get you going. There are a lot of shape and "cut" variations, easily researched on the www. Get high quality ones if you can. Big difference in lifespan. Files work both surprisingly fast, while (usually) helping you to keep from ruining your work. I have every (nearly) power everything I have ever seen, both electric and air. I get things very close with them, but almost always finish with files and/or sanding blocks. With a little paying attention, it is pretty easy to leave a flawless unscathed tube. Leaving a tube perfectly round and perfectly straight with no structurally compromising nicks to "fix" is extremely difficult with only power tools. It takes a very high level of skill indeed with a grinder to match a determined novice with a good file!
 
i went to harbor freight and bought a bunch of files.. all nice and smooth now without waves. takes forever though!
 
Last weekend, I removed the passenger foot peg brackets from both side of the bike. This was my process: used a cutting wheel to remove most of the bracket. Then a steel grinding wheel to remove the weld until I saw a "crack"-the area between the weld and the frame. Next I used a sharp chisel and hammer to remove the weld from the frame. Then I followed with three steps of files, from coarse to fine. Finally, I used a polishing wheel to smooth out the area. I had some low spots which I used SteelStick from JB weld to fill in the fine areas. This took about 2 hours to set. I then used 220 grit sandpaper followed by 1000.

Hope this helps
 

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That is entirely too much work. Haha.

Cut the tab off with a cutting wheel. Cut as close to the frame as safely possible.

Carefully grind down to the weld with a grinding wheel.

Finish with a sanding disk.

That's it.
 
I use a stick of pvc pipe and several small hair dyers to fashion a make shift wind tunnel and with a bit of sand i erode unwanted tabs away
 
I generally use low output ion lasers to vaporize thin layers of the metal until I've reached the desired finish, which I determine by the use of a super computer controlled CNC apparatus. Final inspection is than carried out using an electron microscope and specially designed robotic scan tool.

Also, Brad... I'll cut you like christmas ham.
 
Besides you will only start to cut me and and then change your mind and want to shoot me. then you will go buy a gun and bullets and half way through loading it....you will decide not to shoot me but to have me drawn and quartered. then after a three word post in the wanted section you will end up with four horses (3 are fine but 1 needs reshoed). Then half way through a blacksmith class you will decide not to have me quartered. And all the while.my pvc hair dryer is eroding away. BRING IT
 
i call dibs on the gun after yinzer loses interest in it
 
The best tool for the job is a wire EDM. That gives you the best surface finish and is the safest. ;D
 
bradj said:
Besides you will only start to cut me and and then change your mind and want to shoot me. then you will go buy a gun and bullets and half way through loading it....you will decide not to shoot me but to have me drawn and quartered. then after a three word post in the wanted section you will end up with four horses (3 are fine but 1 needs reshoed). Then half way through a blacksmith class you will decide not to have me quartered. And all the while.my pvc hair dryer is eroding away. BRING IT

I see what you did there. By the way, how many times has the RD been cut apart and redone? :)
 
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