how to replace wheel bearings

[midnightcafe]

If you ever buy a decrepit motorcycle, inspection of the wheel bearings should be near the top of priorities if you plan on riding it. I’ve never replaced wheel bearings so I first checked the manual, which informatively wrote: “replace the bearings if questionable.” Thanks Clymer! It’s funny how repair manuals list an order of processes for a motorcycle in assumed pristine condition. They seem to miss out on the stages where you must restrain yourself from kicking the motorcycle over and throwing tools across the room in your search for the solution to any number of missteps. A brief instruction such as “remove mounting bolts” can easily turn into several hours’ work if said bolts are corroded/galled/stripped, etc.

The fellows over at the GS Resources forum gave helpful suggestions and one even wrote a guide to replacing wheel bearings. I attempting it, but came up short. Here are my suggestions to the guide:

-use the thickest threaded rod you can pass through the bearing ID. 3/8” bent like spaghetti under tension.
-forget the anchor bolt idea. Push the bearing spacer to the side and chisel the bearings free (as one GS rider put it, ‘go caveman on them!’).
-be sure the bearing surface wasn't marred from the hammering
- don’t use the bullshit washers from your corner hardware store. THICK THICK washers! ​

-use heat to drop the first bearing, not the second-you’ll bake the bearing on the other side.
-second bearing: grease the inner surface and tap the bearing with a ball peen hammer and brass drift on the outer race edge (NEVER the inner race), just enough to get it level.

​

 

[hillsy]

Why do you need threaded rod??

 

[motrhd]

Yeah why...........and if you mean heating to put bearings back in, then you didn't mention freezing the bearing or outer race as well. Both the heat and the freezing can be of help...............oh yeah, when in doubt, use your biggest hammer ;D

 

[midnightcafe]

sorry about that... the hyperlink should work now. And yes, freezing the bearing works as well ;D

 

[johngofast]

Blind Hole Bearing Pullers are where it's at. I have this one from Harbor Freight (don't buy any power tools there) and have loved it for years. It's $59 on their website, but I picked mine up for $8.99 and have seen it around $10 many times in store..

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

 

[hillsy]

Is that link a joke? If it isn't, then that guy gets an award for turning a real simple job into rocket science.

Seriously, I have never had to use anything else than a hammer and a round drift (or a flat blade screwdriver when I was lazy : ) to get a wheel bearing out. The inside wheel spacer can be moved enough to get the drift onto the inner race (you only need a few MM)

And putting them in is as simple as finding a suitably sized socket that covers the outer race and tapping the new bearing back in.

Should take no more than 5 minutes, not 2 hours

 

[midnightcafe]

Is that link a joke? If it isn't, then that guy gets an award for turning a real simple job into rocket science.

Seriously, I have never had to use anything else than a hammer and a round drift (or a flat blade screwdriver when I was lazy : ) to get a wheel bearing out. The inside wheel spacer can be moved enough to get the drift onto the inner race (you only need a few MM)

And putting them in is as simple as finding a suitably sized socket that covers the outer race and tapping the new bearing back in.

Should take no more than 5 minutes, not 2 hours

not when you're dealing with this shit! Clearly the amount of work varies from bike to bike, but these directions come to help when you're dealing with a troublesome front end. Remember Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong!

 

[hillsy]

not when you're dealing with this shit! Clearly the amount of work varies from bike to bike, but these directions come to help when you're dealing with a troublesome front end. Remember Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong!

See how the spacer has a centering shroud on only one end? That allows you to move the spacer laterally inside the hub from the other end so you can get a drift onto the inner race of the bearing and punch it out.

Seriously - I've removed a ton of wheel bearings from different bikes over the years and have never needed to resort to dynabolts or propane to either remove or fit new bearings. A bigger hammer, on occasion, but that's about it

 

[Qckslvr]

I have to agree with Midnight. I have done many wheel bearings, but Suzuki goes that extra mile. My mag wheels I used a sharp chisel and worked up to an 8 pound mini sledge before they would budge. I used my round drift and completely ruined it trying to get the bearings out. As is I had to regrind the chisel a few times. Although putting the bearings in was very easy. I cleaned the hubs, got the appropriate socket and drove the bearings in with little effort.

Now my wire wheels I changed the bearings when I had the spokes out. Again same hell to get the old bearings out. But this time I used the shops 40 ton press to install the new bearings

 

[johngofast]

Done a few dozen Suzuki wheel bearings with a Blind Hole Bearing Puller with no problem at all. It does a good job keeping the bearing center and not maring it into the side.