Huge new project underway!

Would putting the heating on speed up the drying process without harming the integrity of the thinset ? My previous experience with this, it took quite a while for the tile to return to almost the original colour. The difference was very slight.
 
I think the heat would really mess things up. People suggest leaving it a good month before turning it on. Just gotta wait. I can see the white areas coming back in. Another day or two.
 
Tiles continue to lighten up - almost there. We're grouting tonight. Then on Monday my trim carpenter will come in and put up all the beadboard, chair rail and baseboard trim as well as new trim around the window and door.

Then it's paint paint paint and at some point early next week I hope to seal the tile and finally install the sink, toilet and tub. Then it's pretty much all done.
 
Tile was grouted last night, and this afternoon I went over the floor inch by inch with cheesecloth getting rid of any excess grout from the surface of the tiles.

Dry fit the toilet and sink the other day to see how they'd look - these Kohler fixtures are big and high - sink is 'counter' height at about 35 inches. Everything will look 1000x better once the beadboard goes in on Monday.

Tonight we plopped the tub into place to confirm the height of the knee wall behind it. There will be a marble slab cut to fit where the plywood is. Perfect height apparantly for a glass of wine (which will of course stain the tile in a second) so the wall doesn't need to be made any higher - less work for me.

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I hear cash register noises when I look at those fixtures. Particularly that claw foot tub. Is that cast iron?
 
I wish it were cash register noises - more like the beeep boooop beeep of VISA authorizations ;)

The tub is acrylic actually. Much much lighter than cast iron and less of a heat sink to suck the heat out of hot water. Doesn't have the look of enamel, but a good trade off, especially on my 2nd floor.

It's what she wanted, so it's what we bought. A little more expensive than buying a drop-in tub and then having to build an enclosure around it but not rediculous.
 
Well it looks great. I was going to put a claw foot tub in my basement bath but decided on a european style bath instead. I can get fixtures at wholesale and my cost on a cast claw foot was 1800 (40% less than list). Went with a ultra bain 7 foot insert. I really like the idea of putting the drain for the tub on the wall. Usually I have placed it through the floor and then just chrome the exposed piping. I think I'm going to try it on my next reno for that type of tub. Any chance you could use a lower mm lens? Something wider angle? I'd like to see the entire bathroom.
 
I'll try to get a better shot - the tub is back out. Walls are being painted right now and the trim carpenter comes in tomorrow to put up the beadboard/chair rail, baseboard etc.

I considered putting the drain in the wall, but the drain kit I had was designed to go into the floor and it was easier this way. With it being in the wall, that section of the drain pipe I would not have access to in the future. As it is, from the kitchen below, I can easily cut a hole in the drywall and get at the entire drain if I need to.

This tub was $1300. It's 31" wide and 70" long. We looked at others, but this one was the most comfortable. It's cast acrylic with a smooth outer finish. The feet are chrome with adjustable footings, making it perfect for our less than level bathroom floor.

Sink and toilet are Kohler Bancroft. Sink is 30" wide - really freakin wide with loads of deck space on it for all the clutter that I'm sure will collect. Two wall sconces above the sink with a surface mounted medicine cabinet from Restoration Hardware.

The corner shower unit is also Kohler - Memoirs model. It was $1500 including the door. A tiled shower with a frameless glass enclosure would have run at least $4-$5000 all in, half of which is for the glass.

Just need to pick up some rigid chrome supply lines when I have a better idea of the lengths I'll need so I don't waste a bunch. I'm moving the cold supply for the sink over 2 inches. It's off centre, as there is a wall stud in the way. So I'm just going to notch the stud a bit. There are no load bearing walls in the house so it's no big deal. I thought I could live with it being off centre, but the pedestal for the sink stands pretty far from the wall and doesn't hide it as much as I thought it would.
 
Well, the trim is in! Starting to look more like a finished room. Some sanding etc. to complete, and one piece under the window which I'll do later on when I know what I want there.

Wall trim is made up of:

Chair rail
Small quarter round
1/2" x 3 1/2" plank
3/8" thick beadboard panels
7" baseboards
3/4" quarter round

Took my trim carpenter about 10 hours to complete the 35 linear feet of trim work.

Oh, and yeah, I'm just waiting for the shower door to arrive. The curtain is temporary :)

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Looks great, is the grain raised with the primer ? If so, sand and another coat and sand again before you do the finish. The room deserves it. ;D
 
Older homes.....

I remember my Dad's line about older homes.

The only thing that works in an old house is the guy who lives there.

How far off the mark is that Tintin?
 
Well, this old home has all up to date wiring and plumbing. No cast iron or aluminum in here. Being in Toronto means I don't worry so much about drafts - costs more to make the thing air tight than I'd ever save in utilities. My windows are 20 years old so are 'modern'.

Best thing about these old homes is they don't make 'em anymore. No vacant lots in my area - only thing that happens is people buy old places and knock them down. Property values just keep going up and up and up. I'm 15 minutes to downtown, 15 minutes to the airport, my daughter can walk to school till she graduates high school... you get the idea.

But I'd kill for a 2 car garage and a big basement!
 
Oh and yep Doug - the wood trim was primed before installing on all sides - wanted to protect it as much as possible being in the bathroom. Once it was up it has been sanded and has gotten its first top coat. Will sand again and put up at least one or more likely two additional coats.

Some touch up to do on the walls and ceiling and we're in the home stretch. Couple more weeks and I can try out the heated floor :)
 
Better timber. Better material. More time spent putting it up. Whats MDF? Whats Particle Board? Never heard of "Engineered Joists." Out here, newer homes are plastered together in a month and look like crap. Vinyl siding everywhere. No yard. Yep. I'll take an older home and dump money into it to make it more ecological and efficient before I ever buy a brand new home. The older the stuff the better in my mind.
Anyone ever looked at anything mechanical in your home prior to 1950? Take a look at how its put together. Granted. Hugely inefficient, but the detail in things that served no purpose other than just looking good is lost for the most part I think. (Im speaking of things that granted don't really need to look good like your furnace.) Anyway, my twenty bits.
 
Well the women-folk (wife and M-I-L) painted 2 days straight and got all the trim done and walls touched up. Nearing the finish line now.

Pics don't do it justice. My crappy little Canon elph doesn't light up the room enough.

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Looking good. Don't forget to place the chrome escutcheons on the copper "before" you solder on the r19 shut offs. (If I had a nickel).
 
Ah.. well, you see I'm using these fancy chrome valves that are compression fittings.

I know sweating on valves would be the 'right' thing to do, but these are really nice and frankly, the more often I handle a torch, the more often I burn something.

On that topic, I will likely want to sweat off one or two of the end caps from the capped 1/2 copper. Two of the roughed in pipes are a little short, so I don't want to cut them shorter.

Aside from scraps of wood etc, what is the best thing to use as a shield for the torch so I don't burn all the paint off my beadboard?

http://www.dahlvalve.com/Finishing_Valve_021907_R.pdf
 
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