installing radio shack switches on a cl360

[johnny gaijin]

trying to decode the wiring diagram on my cl360.

i'm not running gauges/turns signals/starter so i don't have to worry about those.

horn is easy, the LG wire just needs to ground out.

got the kill switch: when the Bk and B wires connect the bike runs.

headlight on and off: i need to make the Bk and Bk/R connect while simultaneously making the Y and W/Y connect.

how do i do that with a two position switch like this:

is that doable or do i need a different kind of switch?

and finally the hi/low beam switch has me all kinds of befuddled. could someone explain how that works, i can't make sense of the diagram...

thanks guys!

 

[hillsy]

Not sure on this, but quite possibly it's as simple as connecting the Bk and Y on one side, and the Bk/R and W/Y on the other. If that doesn't work, then you need a dual pole switch to isolate each circuit.


And by the way, you will more than likely run into big problems if those switches get wet

 

[frogman]

Looking at the diagram, I would try to just get rid of the headlight on/off switch and wire it direct to the keyed hot since you have to run the thing on anyway. That leaves that mess out. Make sure you connect the 2 Yellow wires so the alternator will function at full capacity all the time. If you leave it in you will need a DPST (double pole single throw) switch not a SPST (single). There are two sides to that circuit, one for the lights, one to turn the aux winding in the alternator on, and both need to stay separated.

The HI/LO has a blade style switch that connects the + in the switch when you flip it side to side. It also runs the connection for the parking system that is controlled by the last click on the ignition switch, its a European thing and can be left out in the states.

WHAT you can use here is a SPDT (single pole dual throw), starting to sound like a disease right? ;D Connect the White wire to one side of the switch and the Blue to the other. Then connect switched power (from the on/off switch or the ignition if you leave it out) to the center of the new switch and all should be well.

Go look for better switches then those, if you have farm and ranch store or a good auto parts store that's where I would start looking. You want sealed switches because the one you have pictured will fill up full of dust and dirt just sitting and then not work when you need it. Tractors are designed to be outside all the time and the switches they have are sealed and even have little rubber boots that go over the button/toggle.

IF you need a diagram lemme know I can whip one out. ;D

 

[johnny gaijin]

frogman that is a world of help! thank you!