Is valspar any good?

The_Stache

The_Stache

Been Around the Block
After many recommendations from folks on DTT I decided to pick up a rattle can instead of a spraygun. I was at lowes picking up something for another project and saw the wonderful selection of valspar colors. Are they quality enough for a rattlejob?
 
Most of their paints are rated for indoor use. Not sure if the indoor paints would have sufficient UV resistance to use on a motorcycle.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Most of their paints are rated for indoor use. Not sure if the indoor paints would have sufficient UV resistance to use on a motorcycle.
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:-[
Hm.. I had not thought about that. Very good point. Thanks. Now I have to decide between dupli and rust-o and decide what color. buhhumbug
 
go with duplicolor. I like the "perfect match" line at the auto parts stores. Lots of options (as long as you stay within the traditional car-color range.)


I decided on the color for my bike because I was driving around and saw a car that was the color I wanted. I looked up the name of the color on the toyota website, and went to auto zone and bought it for $5. It may not be as perfect of a match as they say, for touchups on that actual car, but it looks great on my tank!
 
jsharpphoto said:
go with duplicolor. I like the "perfect match" line at the auto parts stores. Lots of options (as long as you stay within the traditional car-color range.)


I decided on the color for my bike because I was driving around and saw a car that was the color I wanted. I looked up the name of the color on the toyota website, and went to auto zone and bought it for $5. It may not be as perfect of a match as they say, for touchups on that actual car, but it looks great on my tank!
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Interesting. I've never seen this feature in store. I despise autozone. But if they can match a color I might have to go for it. British racing green.
 
They don't match colors. Find a car that has the color you want, and look up the name of the color online. Then go to the store and find the color. They are organized by car manufacturer.

Or you could just go and browse colors on the shelf.

The cans are smaller than regular rattlecans, but don't think you're getting gouged. They cover very well.
 
Whatever you do, if you're going the rattle can route, get the 2K aero-spray clear from Eastwood to protect it from gas and the elements.
 
I was at the commercial blaster today and he showed me a motorcycle tank and fender that just came in that the customer wanted blasted. It had a brand new show quality paint job on it that was slick as dog snot. Asked why he was blasting it and he told me the customer said he had asked for PPG paint and the Ahole who painted it used Valspar instead. He was having it stripped so the painter could do it with the PPG. The blaster asked why it made a difference and the first thought that came to me was the UV factor and how that paint looked fantastic today but might look like shit in 2 months in the sun.
 
+1 on what Deviant said

ANY non catalyzed paint is not durable or fuel/solvent resistant. Why spend all the time and effort prepping and painting when it will not last?
 
Scratcher09 said:
ANY non catalyzed paint is not durable or fuel/solvent resistant.
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Not really. Any lacquer has poor fuel and solvent resistance, but good enamel paints are much more durable after a good cure time.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Not really. Any lacquer has poor fuel and solvent resistance, but good enamel paints are much more durable after a good cure time.
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True, but for a measly $20 you can paint it with most anything and get 10x the durability and make it fuel proof. It's a small price to pay.
 
Hmm. I think im going to head over to a local powder coater and compare prices. May just be worth it to get a professional to do it.
 
The automotive paint industry has not generally used lacquers for the last two decades. Lacquers looked great but lacked durability. Today's 2K urethanes are far superior. Painting your bike with a non catalyzed rattle can is like bringing a knife to a gun fight.
 
Scratcher09 said:
The automotive paint industry has not generally used lacquers for the last two decades. Lacquers looked great but lacked durability. Today's 2K urethanes are far superior. Painting your bike with a non catalyzed rattle can is like bringing a knife to a gun fight.
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Again, I am going to say that a good enamel is an excellent finish. The catalyst is atmospheric oxygen, and enamels can be quite durable. They don't harden as quickly and they are not as good as 2K urethanes, but are far less toxic to use. Urethanes fuck up my respiratory system so bad that I use an air-supplied respirator when I spray them. I doubt there are too many on this forum that will buy an $800 respirator. Any other kind of respirator is not good enough for me, because a mask does not seal on my beard. That urethane shit is really, really toxic.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Again, I am going to say that a good enamel is an excellent finish. The catalyst is atmospheric oxygen, and enamels can be quite durable. They don't harden as quickly and they are not as good as 2K urethanes, but are far less toxic to use. Urethanes fuck up my respiratory system so bad that I use an air-supplied respirator when I spray them. I doubt there are too many on this forum that will buy an $800 respirator. Any other kind of respirator is not good enough for me, because a mask does not seal on my beard. That urethane shit is really, really toxic.
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I concur. 20+ years in the ceramics industry, I know all about air born carcinogens. Less toxic is the way to go, especially since the derivations from their toxic counterparts is often nominal. I've even gone to a non-toxic fiberglass and resin. That's the beauty of the time we're in- so much R&D is going into alternative processes in response to lawsuits, medical payouts or tax credits. On the flip side- having to wear a certain type of respirator because of a beard is not how it's supposed to work. OSHA would not think to kindly, unless you're wearing a full face respirator that doesn't have to seal over facial hair. There are plenty of appropriate respirators out there that don't cost $800 when you don't have a beard.
 
But I HAVE a beard, and that ain't gonna change. Leaking masks is a serious issue with beards, so I got an air-supplied respirator. It feeds me air at a slight positive pressure. It means I have to manage two hoses when I spray, but it is totally worth it.

A lot of paints are hazardous to spray even with the best sealing, highest quality cartridge respirator, anyway. A good respirator only reduces your exposure just so much. I also put on a Tyvek suit to spray so that I don't get skin exposure to toxins.

I've lost too many people to cancer. I try to manage my toxic exposures.

I do use catalyzed urethanes whenever I can, but I find simple enamels to be suitable, especially if budget is a consideration. I use lacquers sometimes, too. The "no recoat window" aspect of lacquers is advantageous when doing multicolor graphics. Lacquers are also low in toxicity. I try to finish those jobs with a catalyzed urethane clear, because even brief fuel exposure can fuck up a nice paint job.
 
Just to be clear- respirators are a secondary combatant for air-born toxins. Engineering (i.e.. ventilation) is the the first and primary method. Respirators are extremely limited in reducing exposure levels. Engineering costs money, and very few small business put the necessary money into it. As far as supplied air respirators, way too many businesses don't follow the necessary guidelines for dew point, filtration and sorbent beds, or compressor location. I also doubt most small businesses get their SCBA's inspected monthly like their supposed to. Improperly maintained respiration can be worse than no respiration at all.
 
The_Stache said:
Hmm. I think im going to head over to a local powder coater and compare prices. May just be worth it to get a professional to do it.
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Was quoted $250 from Action Powder Coating in farmingdale for just the tank... Way too much for me.
 
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