Issue with sync and balance CJ360

[shocwav3]

Like the title states I am having 2 specific issues.
I finally got my carb sync and turned my adapters, I was going through the manual in the adjustment section describing how to sync and balance.

Issue 1
I have got the carbs synced very very close according to the gauges, but when I go the crack the throttle a few times the return is still pretty slow (like they are not synced).
Anything else I should be checking?

Issue 2
When I go to balance the carbs using the pilot screw (like the manual states), I pick a side, half turn and wait to hear for change in the idle.
no matter how much I turn them I can not get the idle to change, not one lick.
I start with a turn and half as a base line.

I know compression is good, I have checked and re-checked timing, tappets and point gap. All are within spec.

The bike idles but it is slow to return to idle and sputters eratically, also if I crack the throttle is wont jump above 5K.

Any help will be MUCH appreciated.

 

[Sonreir]

Advance your timing a couple of degrees and see if that makes a difference. If timing is too retarded then the mixture screws won't have a great deal of effect. Retarded timing can also affect the bike's ability to accept throttle. When you snap it open, does it immediate rev up or does it take a little bit before the revs come on?

 

[skatetheame]

Could be too lean or too rich depending on intake and exhaust setup. If you changed the filters or mufflers did you rejet the carbs?

 

[shocwav3]

Advance your timing a couple of degrees and see if that makes a difference. If timing is too retarded then the mixture screws won't have a great deal of effect. Retarded timing can also affect the bike's ability to accept throttle. When you snap it open, does it immediate rev up or does it take a little bit before the revs come on?

Rev comes on steady but not super quick. I will try advancing the timing a bit and see if it helps.

 

[shocwav3]

Could be too lean or too rich depending on intake and exhaust setup. If you changed the filters or mufflers did you rejet the carbs?

Im running a muffler and pods. I upgraded to 112 secondaries for a baseline and I have 115 if I need to bump up.

 

[shocwav3]

Thanks guys for the responses, I am making a bit of progress.
Pulled the points and the advance unit ( I wanted to replace it was new springs). I got it buttoned back up and advanced the static timing a degree or two. Right off the bat the bike is running better. Quicker trottle response and when I crack it comes back much faster than it was. still not 100 percent but I attribute that to the carbs not yet being perfectly synced.

The mixture screw still wont change my idle.... Anything else I need to look for? Maybe advance it a degree more?

 

[shocwav3]

Advanced the timing just a hair more and hooked my syncs back up to finish syncing the carbs, it was idling well, rev'd up fine and came back nice and quick. I took her out for a short ride and now I have developed something NEW. After coming off the throttle it decided it did not want to come back down from around 4K. I shut her down and kicked it back over, idles normal but as soon as I crack the throttle same thing happens.
I pulled the advance unit and checked the springs, they are snapping back nice, what else can be causing this issue? Also I verified that the throttle is closing properly and not just sticking open.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[crazypj]

It's stock?
What exhaust?
What air filters?
You don't sync with pilot screws

 

[shocwav3]

It's stock?
What exhaust?
What air filters?
You don't sync with pilot screws

PJ-
Exhaust is 2into1 with pod filters. Motor stock with 150psi compression.

I used the adjusting screw between the carbs for the sync, tried to follow the video you posted as reference. According to the gauges I am spot on, not to mention the motor sounds much better now.
I was attempting to "balance" with the pilot screws, following the procedure in the manual, but for some reason they have no effect on the idle of the bike.
The bike idles well and pulls hard, the more I "tune" the bike the better it is running, I just want to make sure that I am not missing something major that will prevent me from getting it tuned properly.

Thnx everyone for taking the time to look at my issue and providing feedback.

 

[crazypj]

OK, your doing sync correct, you 'set' pilot screws not 'balance' them though
If pilot screws are having no effect there is something blocked of partially blocked, or, something is loose/leaking?
You do have the tiny rubber 'o' rings in place on pilot screws? (You need a bent paperclip to remove them from carb body)
Set float level 1mm higher than stock

 

[shocwav3]

OK, your doing sync correct, you 'set' pilot screws not 'balance' them though
If pilot screws are having no effect there is something blocked of partially blocked, or, something is loose/leaking?
You do have the tiny rubber 'o' rings in place on pilot screws? (You need a bent paperclip to remove them from carb body)
Set float level 1mm higher than stock

Thnx Pj, I do remember seeing o-rings on the pilot screw but not in the carb body. I assume you mean if they dont come out with the pilot screw then you will need a paperclip to get them from the carb? I am going to reference the parts breakdown to verify and re-check the rest. Also I think I may have a leak in one of my intake boots after close inspection and testing them. I have re-seated them with a bit of sealant. After they dry I am going to give it another go.

I will report back with progress.

 

[crazypj]

If the 'o' rings came out with the screws they may have shrunk, although if they are relatively new you should be OK as they won't be compressed into carb body yet.
Assembly should be
screw (pointy end up ;D )
spring
washer
rubber '0' ring
You have the rubber plug in place over the pilot jet?

 

[shocwav3]

If the 'o' rings came out with the screws they may have shrunk, although if they are relatively new you should be OK as they won't be compressed into carb body yet.
Assembly should be
screw (pointy end up ;D )
spring
washer
rubber '0' ring
You have the rubber plug in place over the pilot jet?

Interesting The assembly is in the right order but I have NO washer, also I do not have a rubber plug over the pilot.

The o ring and pilot screw were deff replaced by the previous owner, they looked BRAND NEW when I broke the carbs down the first time, and I have an old one in a [parts box that I got with the bike.

 

[crazypj]

I've been doing Mikuni's on my Katana, you don't have rubber plugs, they do ;D
You have a brass screw blocking off pilot jets so they can only get fuel from main jet (it's how total fuel flow is monitored)
Get a paperclip and check carb body for washer, bend about 1/16" lip on the end.
It's pretty common that the carbs were re-built and original washers left in there.
I did one a few years ago that had 3 sets of rubber/steel washers stacked up

 

[shocwav3]

I've been doing Mikuni's on my Katana, you don't have rubber plugs, they do ;D
You have a brass screw blocking off pilot jets so they can only get fuel from main jet (it's how total fuel flow is monitored)
Get a paperclip and check carb body for washer, bend about 1/16" lip on the end.
It's pretty common that the carbs were re-built and original washers left in there.
I did one a few years ago that had 3 sets of rubber/steel washers stacked up

WIll do, I am going to break them down tommorow morning before work and take a look.

Thanks again for the info, I will let you know where I am at.

 

[shocwav3]

Pj- I noticed in quite a few posts you refer to air correctors? how do I know which type I have? and do you have the modified ones available for sale if I have the correct type? Seems like its a good fix for a modified pod/exhaust set up like mine.
Thanks in advance

 

[shocwav3]

Made some progress this morning.
Got the carbs broke down and checked them over really closely.

Two of the 3 air inlets in the pic were clogged with gunk, and 1 of the 3 in the other carb was the same.
I feel like these have become clogged since I have been running the bike, but I may be wrong.

Next I followed PJ's instructions and removed the blanking screw to check for extra washers, there were none. I dug through my parts bin and found my extra set of carbs.
They are pretty torn up but luckily one still have the washer on it, so I found a matching one and replaced them on the blanking screw.
Also I verified my floats were properly set.
Finally I found a small tear at the base of one of the diaphragms. I used s very small amount of gorilla glue and sealed up the slit.

While waiting on the glue to dry I am going to go get some fresh fuel for the bike, report back with progress.

Thanks for looking.

 

[crazypj]

You need to check for extra washers on the fuel screws. (mixture screws on side of carbs)
The ones on the blanking plugs don't really matter
You have push in air correctors, if you send me your spare carbs I can modify them for pods

 

[shocwav3]

You need to check for extra washers on the fuel screws. (mixture screws on side of carbs)
The ones on the blanking plugs don't really matter
You have push in air correctors, if you send me your spare carbs I can modify them for pods

Ahhh, I am an idiot I am going to check the mixture screws right now. As for those spare set, ironically enough they have the screw in type (I can tell because all the brass peices are missing and I can see the body is threaded)
Does the set up you sell come with all 3 or just one? It might be worth it for me to re-build them.

 

[shocwav3]

Pj- here is what I got when I pulled the mixture screw

This is exactly how it comes out of the carb body

Carb

There is not washer to be found in either..