Kawasaki Z1000 Turbo Reborn

[Streetfighterkz]

The instruments are a headache, as want to use OE looking set, but they are mechanically driven, which can't do anymore on my bike. I can buy an OE electronic tacho but no one seems to make a matching speedo. More thought required.

Drive the speedo off the front countershaft sprocket via a VFR750/RC36 drive mechanism. Quite a few Zrx1100/1200 owners do it when swapping out to a Zx/Zzr14 front end. There’s a kit on Webike for the older Kaws. I’m making my own setup for my ‘78 that I’m swapping Ducati GT1000 spoked wheels onto. I ordered a speedo cable from Germany for a CB1000 or CBR1000F. I think the length is 1040mm or something like that.

Auto Magic : Płyta zwalniająca [CR103]

(Sorry I’m currently in Poland so it redirected me to the Polish version of the site.)

Just a thought….

Later, Doug

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Thats interesting, but how accurate can it be, when gearing is not fixed?

 

[Streetfighterkz]

Thats interesting, but how accurate can it be, when gearing is not fixed?

Not sure. I guess it’s read correctly with the same tire size and gearing as a Vfr. I’m not sure how Vfr owners deal with it when swapping gears around. I pay attention to my tach more than the ground speed anyways.

Later, Doug

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Mounted the M-Unit without having to add anymore holes to the frame, will cut down the alloy mounting plate at some point, but for now leaving it, as may want to bolt something else to it, such as the horn.

Made a cardboard template for the rear part of the mudguard, then make it in 1.2mm stainless plate. Bit of a gap on either side, which I may need to address, but then again this bike wont be seeing rain if I can help it.

The headlight mount is coming along, though need to make the wide part of the alloy ears look better, not decided how yet..

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Got the cylinder head back, looks good,.. now it needs to be coated to match the rest of the engine cases

Before..

After..

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Drilled the Renthal bars to take the wiring from the M-Switches, fitted the bars to the bike, along with the HEL master cylinders and grips. Next task is to make a bracket to mount the speedo/tacho unit, and once that's done, I can finally make a start on building the wiring harness for the bike.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

The headlamp mount 'ears' have been machined to make them less ugly, while a steel bracket has been made to fit the speedo/tacho gauge. These have been painted black, and now just need to complete the alloy part of the mount and that the front end fabrication done.

 

[CarbsAndCylinders]

https://www.renthal.com/moto/handlebar-warnings

Make sure your bars are safe.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

I've ridden many thousands of miles with Renthal bars with similar small holes drilled, not dead yet. They have to say that, no doubt some idiot will drill huge holes in a set of bars, they fail, and the company gets sued.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Having an interesting time trying to build the wiring harness for the MK2 without an engine. Can't do everything, but I can do approx 90%. The keyless ignition system is on back order, but the GPS speedo sensor should be here in a few days.

Using an M-Unit simplifies things a lot.. no need for a fuse box, alarm system, relays, etc. Though the wires from the M-switches are tiny, and tricky to work with.

Have to work on my drive now, as no room left in my garage

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

Completed the speedo/tacho mount, then fitted R&G bar ends to the Renthal bars, after buying different bar ends which didn't fit, as the Renthal bars have thicker walls than a standard steel bar. Next a pair of HEL brake lines where fitted, two lines rather than the OE three, so called race format.

Dropped the idea of using a GPS speed senser, was it wasn't so easy to fit with the Daytona speedo.. but will use the GPS option on another project. However, the magnetic senser wouldn't fit between the fork leg and front disc, as there isn't enough room. So had to make a mount to fit it next to the rear disc.

The senser was intended to be mounted to the fork leg with Zip ties. Had to file a grove in the new mount to stop it from swivelling on its one 3mm mounting screw. Once painted black should be pretty much invisable.

Also finished making the stainless engine mounting bolts, 10mm stainless rod cut and threaded, and once the hex nuts were welded into place, they were skimmed on a lathe.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

My Tarozzi rear sets finally arrived from Italy, I'm using a Brembo master cylinder, so had to make a bracket to mount it. Started with a cardboard template then made it in 5mm alloy plate, before painting it with etch primer and satin black 'tough' paint. The levers come apart to reposition the small lever, but can't get them apart, so making a tool to do so, rather than risk damaging the finish. The spacers from the bracket to the master cylinder need to be slimmer and a bit longer, once made, I'll get them hard anodised black.

 

[NSNickName]

I love the silver on that swingarm.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

I love the silver on that swingarm.

It's from a ZRX1200, which is hard anodised from the factory, this one was in poor condition when it was bought, so it's been powder coated mica silver.

 

[NSNickName]

It reminds me of the silver I powder coated my YZ250. It looks so clean and has infinite depth. Beautiful touch.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

With the rear brake completed, its time to prepare the frame for its engine, using foam pipe insulation to protect the powder coat when the engine is lifted into the frame.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

I surprised myself yesterday, as I managed to push the MK2 up hill and down dale over two miles to my mates workshop where we will will fit its newly rebuilt engine tomorrow. Doubt I could push it home with the extra weight of the engine, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. The flat bits are ok, but any incline is hard work.

 

[Bevelheadmhr]

A half hour job took all afternoon, but the engine is in the frame at last, barrels and head can be fitted with the engine in the frame.