KZ440 starter relay

[sparkE]

Hey guys, when I push the starter button on my bike, the only thing that happens is the starter relay clicks. Is this because there isn't enough voltage being supplied to turn the starter? It shouldn't be, because I have a fresh new battery.

Input is greatly appreciated, I really want to get my bike started again!

 

[Big R]

What's the voltage at the battery? Sometimes fresh and new is deceiving.

 

[sparkE]

Battery voltage is a little over 12V. I just got it and charged it, so i figured that wasn't the problem.

When I followed the instructions in the owners manual, it passed the ohm-reading test (connect across the terminals of the relay and push starter button, the relay is good if it clicks and the omh-reading is 0), but it didn't pass the voltage test (when connected across the terminals and starter button is pushed it read 0V).

According the the owners manual, this means there is "wiring trouble", but that the relay is good. I'm not sure where I should go from here because all the wires seem to be OK...

 

[Bozz]

Quickly touch both high amp posts of the relay with a large screwdriver. It will spark, but the starter should also jump.

This is a quick test to see if it is the relay or something else like starter or battery.

Some of the older solenoids are rebuildable (assembled with screws) while others are not. It is possible for the solenoid to click and the bus bar to not make contact across both poles inside.

Let us know what you find out.

Cheers!

 

[sparkE]

Thanks bozz, I tried that but got nothin- no spark, no starter turnover

 

[crazypj]

Sounds like relay has burned contacts.
The coil part works but the high amp contactors burn out.
Usual cause is a bad battery.
Try the screwdriver test, if it turns motor, just get a solenoid (Chevy and Ford use remote solenoids or any old bike one is easy to wire in)

 

[Bozz]

OK, so check your high amp leads from battery to solenoid and starter to solenoid. Look for tight bends, breaks, corrosion, etc.

If you are careful, you can take jumper cables and touch the solenoid end of the starter lead directly to the battery positive terminal.
(this bypasses the battery lead to the solenoid and effectively checks it)

Also, check that your negative high amp terminal from the battery is in good shape and goes to a known good ground. (frame bolt or engine or both)

It is possible that all the positive high amp is fine and the ground side of things is not right.

The starter grounds through the engine cases, so the engine and frame must have a good connection. (sometimes an issue with rubber dampened engine mounting)

Remember, electrics are pure logic. So do your best spock impersonation and think through the problem.

 

[sparkE]

Thanks for the help guys. Electrics are logic, but still frustrating at times.

Anyways, all the leads to the solenoid are good, so I tried the jumper cable trick you suggested and still got nothing. I then attached one end of the jumpers to the positive battery terminal and the other straight to the starter, and the starter STILL didn't turnover.

I think that the engine is connected to the frame okay, which means the starter ground should be okay, do you think this means my starter is fried?