long distance comfort questions

ryanglade

Been Around the Block
I am building an xs650 and want to go with a style like this;

http://crowemetalco.com/

I like the idea of taking my bike wherever I go, no matter how far it is. Coming from that view point how do i create a simple seat design like above and have the internals comfy for the long haul? I do not want a couch cushion, that is pretty much what I have right now.

If someone could point me in the right direction to what foams and such to use and even some seat construction help I would appreciate it a lot.

Thanks
 
The seat on that BMW is pretty much the stock thickness. It might even be based on a factory solo seat that was available for the BMW airheads back in the day (still can be bought). Might have been Police issue stuff.

http://www.bmwbayer.de/index.php?page=product&info=1590

First for a decent seat you need good quality foam, like they used on the factory seat. Nothing wrong with using the stock seat and doing some general reshaping of the foam without cutting too much out.

Second, you need to maintain the rubber bushings between the seat pan and frame to further reduce vibration. This will be doubly important on the XS650 which vibrates like mad at highway speeds.

On the XS650, for highway comfort you want to lower the engine RPM. You can do this with sprocket changes (I run a 30t rear sprocket on my XS650 for this purpose). You can also go up a tooth on the front, but I haven't done this one (I think it's close to equivalent of going down 3 in the rear).

The most invasive option is the taller 5th gear from MikesXS which goes on the transmission. I did this when I rebuilt my engine (750cc rephased race motor).

Bottom line is my XS buzzes a lot at speed, but its a cafe racer with rearsets bolted to the frame, clipons bolted to the forks and a stupid nothing of a seat sitting right on the frame.

With the stock rubber bushing mounted footpegs and handlebars and a proper seat, it would be way more comfortable I'm sure. But I have a BMW R75/6 that is my distance bike.

Sargent Seats will make a custom seat from your stock one, inserting gel pads etc. Another option is an Airhawk air cushion, which I have for my XS650 for desperate longer rides. You partially inflate it with air and strap it to the seat. Works great to eliminate pressure points and you only put it on when you need it.

So a slightly cut down customized stock seat with perhaps a gel insert would be a good start, and then if it's not good enough toss a sheepskin, air cushion, gel pad or something on top for longer trips.
 
+1 in the front is equal to ~2.9 down in the rear. If you're only going to change one sprocket, change the front. It puts less stress on the engine, otherwise, change both and put some go fast parts on it. Without digging into the trans, more gearing equals less acceleration, which means more power is needed to get up and go at the same rate as now.
 
Thanks for the responses!

I appreciate the tips.

I do plan on doing a good engine build down the road.

Jewbacca, without getting into the motor too much what would you recommend for "go fast parts" to put on it? I am going to do a rephase big bore (of some sort- much more research before I decide on everything) and have been waiting to do too much before I get into that but I know a better exhaust and better carbs and air filters will all help. Since this can has been opened, I have been thinking about saving up and going with some Lectron carbs to make jetting and such much easier, since as I understand it, they do it all for you, pretty much. Do you guys have an opinion on carbs? I know some roundslides can be had for much cheaper. (I know this should be in another section!)

How do you go about fitting a larger sprocket in the front? I have heard that people run into spacial issues with that. I do know it can be done, I just havent looked deep into it yet.
 
I think on most bikes you can safely go up 1 tooth in the front, but Google will be your friend on that one. Going up 2 teeth in front would likely be overkill in any case.

MikesXS sells 16, 17 and 18 tooth fronts. I think 17 is stock, so jump to an 18.
 
This is so confusing for me coming from a bicycle background.

You are saying bringing the front and rear sprocket closer to 1:1 actually decreases your RPM for highway riding and vice versa? It is the opposite with BMX and Road Bikes. Can someone give a run down on what is going on with that? I imagine it is something to do with the transmission but what?

Sorry to ask what seems to be a general knowledge question. I tried googling it, but all it said was what it would do to your acceleration and top speed.. not why.
 
.Spindat. said:
This is so confusing for me coming from a bicycle background.

You are saying bringing the front and rear sprocket closer to 1:1 actually decreases your RPM for highway riding and vice versa? It is the opposite with BMX and Road Bikes. Can someone give a run down on what is going on with that? I imagine it is something to do with the transmission but what?

Sorry to ask what seems to be a general knowledge question. I tried googling it, but all it said was what it would do to your acceleration and top speed.. not why.

On a pedal bike you're generally starting out with a large front sprocket and a small rear sprocket. On a motorcycle you've got a small front sprocket and a large rear sprocket. So increasing the size of the front sprocket will reduce the gear ratio on a motorcycle and increase the gear ratio on a bicycle.

CC
 
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