Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

The Jimbonaut said:
Working on the seat pan, I'd post images but Photobucket is on the fritz and I don't know any other way of getting pics on the site. I'm also trying to figure out how to integrate the rear fender now that the frame has been cut, and I'd love some help in that department. Anyone got any suggestions, or can anyone send me a link to build thread they know of that shows a way to do it?

I'm not planning on welding any more tabs to the frame (except a couple today that will secure the seat to the rear of the frame) but I'm totally open to suggestions. Frame might also be getting painted pretty soon so don't want to overlook anything and then find out too late that I missed something.

Thanks from a pearler of a day in MTL =)
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Jimbo, dunno what you're planning for the rear fender but here's how I shortened and tucked the stock fender on a GS550 I had a while back. I basically chopped the foward end of the fender and drilled 2 holes to replace the stock bolt hole locations. Minimal work.

a0f95fead93b379850b6ffb8a9c4c1ab.jpg
 
Looks sharp - thing is I've chopped the "bridge" on the frame and welded on a seat hoop (looking back, all the images I've posted on this thread are not working - Photobucket's gone and done one). So there's not a huge amount of clearance, and now no holes through which to bolt the fender.
 
Yeah you might have a tough time finding a place to mount it. I don't personally like the idea of drilling through the frame if I can avoid it to eliminate the chance of moisture getting in. To be honest, it's tough to mod stuff like this without a welder, you may be able to mount it up to the seat pan as well so maybe get your seat situation sorted out and then look at the fenders from there.

I'd say it would be worth it to get any tabs figured out and bring it to a welder or local guy to run some beads.


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Think this'll work - weld a strip of steel (shown in green) between the frame rails - the seat pan will bolt into the outer holes, and I can bolt the fender into the two inner holes



Whaddya think?


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I vaguely remember a post where a guy was planning to rivet some sheet aluminium to his bike frame. When questioned he said that he used build race cars and they did this all the time with no issues. But I can't recall any bike manufacturers doing this even though I think it would be cheaper than welding brackets on and I think the look of this might cheapen the appearance of your bike. The minor details can really make a significant difference in how well made your bike "looks".

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the welded in strip looks like a good plan you won't see it after the seat and fender go on but should hold both well.
 
Sweet, think that's the plan then. I'll have a crack at it tonight with a buddy of mine who's got a welder and we'll see what gives.

Need to pick up some shocks too but don't want to break the bank. Love the look of piggy bank shocks but not sure about the RFY's or TEC Alloy's, so steering back more to the classic look of the Emgo. Ideally would like to spend around $100 - $150 on them. Again, not looking for anything too spectacular, just some entry level shocks that'll do the job. Any suggestions?

Here are the shocks I'm looking at (I'm in Canada so if I can buy local and save on import taxes then hell yeah to that) -

https://fortnine.ca/en/emgo-classic-shocks

Don't dig the gloss black shroud (or lower part) so ideally would like to strip the paint from both and give them a brushed steel finish. How easy to disassemble/reassemble are these things?
 
The strip looks good, I did the same thing to mount the cb360 seat. I also use one bolt by the rear tank mount so it has 3 mounting points. Same goes with the fender, you may find you'll want a third mounting point in case it wants to roll or sag. You'll see what I mean once you start mocking t up


Far as the shocks go you'd probably be better finding some old rebuildable shocks and go that route...EMGO parts are shite and rear shocks are one of the few places even my cheap ass will drop some cash on...

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Totally hear you on the shocks - I'm hoping the ones I just bought will do the job ok. Probably not the best, but hey.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HONDA-CB650SC-CB750-CB750F-CB900-CB900F-CBX-CBX1000-CB1100F-REAR-SHOCKS-/381916025133?hash=item58ebf8112d:g:tYIAAOSw241YcZJM&vxp=mtr

If I eventually pull this build off, then I'll be more up for ponying up the bucks for the next set. For now, fingers crossed these'll do me right

Good call on the third mounting point for the fender - I'll play around with it tonight and see if I can work something out. Thing is, frame etc going to powdercoat tomorrow (have a friend here in MTL that's hooking me up for a good price) and I'm hoping not to have to weld anything else once it's back from paint. Well, there's only one way to find out - grip it an' rip it
 
Those should be ok for the price. Wont be yhe best but better than 30 year old worn out. I had a similar set on my gl then got some oem hondas from the mid 90's a d they were better
 
Got the frame over to my mate and welded this brace up -



- once I've got the placements right I'll drill holes for the seat pan and rear fender. Off to powder coat tomorrow - so far so good...




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Gonna hit my brushed steel tank with this 2K clear coat (semi-gloss) -



- think it'll work on bare metal? Anything I need to know as far as prep is concerned?


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It should, make sure it is clean, then clean it again LOL and wear a paint suite with a hood, gloves googles and a respirator rated for the shit in that can or it will kill you.

Cheers
 
Maritime said:
and wear a paint suite with a hood, gloves googles and a respirator rated for the shit in that can or it will kill you.
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Holy shit. Is this clear coat, or canned anthrax? :eek:
 
MSDS link. This stuff is 2 part catalyst paint and if it gets in you and then hardens, it's no good. That being said it is great clear, fuel won;t hurt it and it is tough as hell.

http://www.spraymax.de/fileadmin/download/rez_2/GB/SDBREZ59_-_Aerosol_2K_Klarlack_GB.pdf
 
Cool, gonna pick up a can today and will armour up. New master cylinder and clutch lever came in yesterday and the frame went to powder coat, getting new rubber (Dunlop K70's) on my hoops today and shocks should be arriving too
 
The stuff is only good for about 6-8 hours. One can will do your tank and have some left. I try to get my 27 bucks worth and line up other bits that can use the 1/4 can you have left after a tank has enough coats. Be patient between layers, it will sag on you if you go too quick, good thing is though once cured you can fix minor runs or sag when you polish it out.
 
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