My Royal Enfield Cafe Racer project.

[Gordon]

Unfortunately the rearsets are going to be delayed. Probably until we finish the next modification on the list, i.e.,

The Cowl!

Have taken an estimate from the fabricator, but he's charging a bomb for it. So we've decided to make the stuff on our own. Lets see how things turn out. Would look something like the below photoshopped pic. The new name will be stuck on either sides of this cowl. The cowl is going to be a removable/detachable one. Not sure how it'll be done, but we're gonna do it. The cowl work would be starting today hopefully. Will post pics as we progress. Suggestions are welcome, specially on mounting/removing/locking the cowl:

 

[c]

Unfortunately the rearsets are going to be delayed. Probably until we finish the next modification on the list, i.e.,

The Cowl!

Have taken an estimate from the fabricator, but he's charging a bomb for it. So we've decided to make the stuff on our own. Lets see how things turn out. Would look something like the below photoshopped pic. The new name will be stuck on either sides of this cowl. The cowl is going to be a removable/detachable one. Not sure how it'll be done, but we're gonna do it. The cowl work would be starting today hopefully. Will post pics as we progress. Suggestions are welcome, specially on mounting/removing/locking the cowl:

Nice work so far on the Enfield. It's a beauty.
Before people run off and start sending you shift arms (the splined part that rotates on the gear shifting shaft) get a measurement on the diameter and count the number of splines.

When mocking up controls I start with foamcore or card board for the plates and flat stock.
Use steel rod for the linkages. This way you can catch any binding problems and dial in the shapes of the parts so they have a sympathy to the surrounding forms. When you are changing these around be aware of ground clearance, the kickstarter and shifter movement.
You'll also want ball end or heim joint linkages for mating the plates to the rods. The bent rod captured through the hole will wear quickly and shift poorly. If its a bit difficult or expensive to have a rod bent and threaded a strait linkage of threaded rod could be used. It looks crap but It'll get the job done.

For your sidestand problem have a .25 dia steel rod welded perpendicular on to the arm so you can catch it with your foot, mind the clearance you'll need for upshifting. Have a knob welded onto the arm or bend it over so it doesn't become a sharp penetrator if it falls on your ankle. If this short arm had a graceful arc it could have form and function!

Alloy would be a nice thing for the seat but may be expensive. You could hack apart a gas tank for a cowl or if you have any talent you could make a form, take a mold and fab up a fiberglass shell. A few steel or aluminum brackets that you could tap into or use dzus fasteners would work well to join the shell to the frame. If you do end up with alloy consider rubbber mounting it to prevent cracking.

Check out www.mcmaster.com for all manner of fasteners. Looking through here will give you some ideas.

c

ps - ditch the crash bars and minimize the rear fender so it won't need the awkward looking support bracket.

 

[Gordon]

Had noticed this while installing the Goldstar silencer. There is a VERY VERY SMALL gap between the bend pipe and the Goldstar silencer.
Problem?!

 

[Ease]

No, not really - mine had an isolater in there (just a bit of rubber) to keep it all tight.

Any leaks?

 

[Gordon]

I can feel some light gases exiting from there when I keep my finger near the gap. Else I don't find ANY change in the sound or in performance. I was just worried, since I've heard that exhaust leaks are too dangerous for valves.

 

[Gordon]

Bike isn't complete yet. But here are some nice pics. The cowl work is on. Rearsets are delayed since the parts are only available at a specific store far from my place and there is lack of time. When I do get the time (hopefully tomorrow), I'll make a trip there and pick them. Till then enjoy the pics.

 

[Gordon]

Yesterday was awesome. Did a lotttt of things. We had the time, all we had to do was do some work!

Rear Cowl
Ok the cowl is part ready but is a bit small. Need to add some extra metal to get it in line with the seat. More pics when more work is done.

RearSets
We managed to get the LHS footpeg bracket, gear linkage, gear lever. We had to get a longer and different footpeg so that it sticks a bit out inorder to change gears. The only thing left to decide is a brake lever. Went to PR Enterprises for the parts, but he didnt have them. Finally we got from them a place called Bitee Bikes.

The gear lever rod is short, so we'll be changing that to a longer one and the cam will be removed to give way to an appropriate cam.

Tyres
Ok, after lot of discussion and thinking, the front tyre is out. Took it to the tyre shop and replaced the front tyre. Pics will be posted later since it was too late to take a good pic. Till then keep guessing the tyre and size.

The rear tyre was not replaced since we were falling short of cash and the required size wasnt available. Will be replacing once it arrives.

 

[Gordon]

Duro 100/90-19. Thats the front tyre.
Front mudguard touches the tyre, so had it removed. Its anyways going to give way for a new shorter mudguard.

 

[coolatula]

Dude,that bike looks great!
Really low profile look to it,great job!
I have liked the Enfields ever since they started selling them here(U.S.). One day I'd love to pick one up(500) and Cafe it.
I have a older Enfield USA parts/acc. catalog and there is a lot of neat stuff in there that could work on other bikes as well.

 

[Gordon]

Thanks coolatula.

Some more updates on the Wheels and the front mudguard
Wheels:
We've decided to keep the wheels as it is (chrome).

Front mudguard:
The front mudguard is being furthered shortened and less tapering at the end. Not sure if it would be possible to chrome it after all the cutting its gone through. The mudguard brackets were touching the tyres when we tried fitting them. The fabricator said he would try and cut it in such a way that it doesnt touch the tyre. If it does, we would have to cut the brackets and fit it on the outside. The length of the mudguard will be 4.5 in from the center on either sides. Currently it is longer in the front (around 6-6.5 in) and more tapering at either ends.

 

[locOleoN]

hey Gordon,

that cowl is gonna look great.
How do you plan to mount it? will it be a removable unit?

Personally, I really like the font license plate along between the forks..
Is that a mandatory requirement there or is that just an added touch?

 

[Gordon]

Thanks Noel. Not sure how we're gonna mount the cowl. Will have to check when its ready. The front number plate is a mandatory requirement, but not mandatory to place it in that way. You can also mount them vertically on the front mudguards.

Anyways, the front mudguard is finally ready. The supporting brackets have been welded outside but they still touch the tyre. I think that the guys messed up while fitting the new tyre. Cos the tyre is more closer to the left fork than the right. And thats causing the problem with the mudguard. Can anyone advise what may have gone wrong here??

 

[coolatula]

Thanks Noel. Not sure how we're gonna mount the cowl. Will have to check when its ready. The front number plate is a mandatory requirement, but not mandatory to place it in that way. You can also mount them vertically on the front mudguards.

Anyways, the front mudguard is finally ready. The supporting brackets have been welded outside but they still touch the tyre. I think that the guys messed up while fitting the new tyre. Cos the tyre is more closer to the left fork than the right. And thats causing the problem with the mudguard. Can anyone advise what may have gone wrong here??

Just a thought on the wheel now being offset.
Does your wheel have TWO spacers? They may have been switched side to side if it does. If it has two and are ALMOST the same length they could have been put in the opposite side of the hub from where they belong. Most wheels have one spacer longer that the other because one side of the hub is usually wider/thinner than the other. Was the wheel/tire centered BEFORE you had the new tire/tyre mounted?

Maybe it had the wrong spacers to begin with? Shouldn't be hard to fix,just modify/cut/machine the ones you have(if long enough),shim with flat washers or buy the correct ones. The first two options are of course the cheapest!

 

[Gordon]

Thanks for the reply, coolatula. Well, not sure what was causing the problem but its resolved.

The spokes were tightened or whatever, to get the wheel aligned. The wheel was removed, tyre removed, re-aligned the wheel, installed the mudguard, put the tyre back onto the wheel, put the wheel onto the fork. The tyre was bang in the center and didn't touch the mudguard. But we seen the tyre again and noticed that:

"THE MORON TYRE GUY MOUNTED THE TYRE IN THE WRONG DIRECTION!"



The muguard lost its shape a bit, and there is quite a gap between it and the tyre. So mudguard will go back for more shaping and work.

So plans for this Saturday are:

• Go to tyre shop, open front wheel and put tyre in proper direction.
• Go to fabricator, open the wheel AGAINNNN. Remove mudguard for more modification.

 

[Gordon]

Having problems with the rear brake. Its just too soft and mushy. When I press the brake pedal, the rear brake is veryy ineffective. Even on the tightest setting when the wheel cannot rotate freely and the brake pedal hardly moves, the brake is soft and not effective. It hardly makes any difference. I've changed the brake shoes and liner, to no avail.

Any reason why this is happening?!

 

[rudy]

Could this bend in the rear brake rod be the problem? When you hit the brakes does this bend want to pull straight? Could the cause of your squishy rear brakes. Just give it a try sitting still and watch the rod.

Rudy

 

[Ease]

Whoa, if that's the way you're running with the brake rod then I'd say sort that out, regardless of if that's the root of your current problem... 'Cause when you do get it to where it sticks, that's gonna be the weak link in your break system for sure.

 

[coolatula]

If your going to have a bend in the brake rod like that you should put in a gusset/brace at the bend(even if you have to put it on top) or else as rudy said the the rod will just try to straighten itself back out.

Some drum brake systems are real sensitive in their adjustments/set-up,when set-up well they work great and when not they SUCK! Most drum systems aren't as forgiving as most hydraulic disc systems.

 

[Gordon]

Thanks rudy, Ease, coolatula.

I've always looked at that rod and thought it shouldn't have such a huge bend. And then forgot about it coz I thought all Enfields have that. Just checked on Google, and yes the rod is bent too much. The mechanic bent it a year back because it was touching the footpeg bracket Will straighten it on Saturday. Will revert back about this after its straightened.

Till then, can there be another reason for the squishy brakes?!

 

[coolatula]

Thanks rudy, Ease, coolatula.

I've always looked at that rod and thought it shouldn't have such a huge bend. And then forgot about it coz I thought all Enfields have that. Just checked on Google, and yes the rod is bent too much. The mechanic bent it a year back because it was touching the footpeg bracket Will straighten it on Saturday. Will revert back about this after its straightened.

Till then, can there be another reason for the squishy brakes?!

Your hub or shoes may be glazed,old,not making good contact or not the correct compound for what you need. Friction is the name off the game! When you don't have it things get scary real quick!
If set up well I actually prefer the direct feel of mechanical drum brakes. For me I just seem to be able to regulate my braking better.
Especially the rear brake on a dirt bike/quad while riding off-road although disc brake fade less overall if both are wet/muddy.
I feel more in tune with the brake system than hydraulic systems. Only hydraulic systems with stiff braided lines come close.

Try the rod first or you might even have to(should) buy a new one. Small rods like that don't like to be bent and then bent back. Every time that is done it just makes it that much weaker.