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I have a two questions to ask. On the slider, the needle I have wiggles a bit side to side. Is this normal or is it not supposed to move at all?
And I am still struggling for an idea on how to remove the needle guide/jet, whatever it is thats stuck inside my second carb. Top of it simply stripped off while dismantling and now I am stuck on two parts: how to get the damn thing out, and where to find a new one? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new carb because of this.
Also, Still looking for a good source on how exactly to take apart and put back together the CB450's carbs. Pretty sure I've figured it out for the most part but the DCC rebuild kit contains a few more washers and o-rings that what I found on my carb in the tear down phase.
You'll have to Tap the jet to get it out, or use a reverse screw remover, similar thing. I've seen the replacement jets on eBay, and may be getting some myself shortly.
When I get a second ill scan the carby pages out of my Haynes manual for you, it's a good start?
Hey Frogman, Those needles do move around a bit. I've replaced a few cause they bang against the jet and wear out. Probably the reason they put new ones in the kits.
On that stuck jet , try PB Blaster and a heat gun. RG
BTF I was merely commenting on the age of the thread that lloydie73 was responding to, being that from the OP's last post was almost a year ago. Some of us around here consider threads like this to be dead after say 1-2 months. Normally, threadmining around here is done by members that are looking for 100 posts. Just my 2 cents.
Am also well aware of carb needles, I've owned quite a few bikes in the last 20 years and I think every single one I have owned that had a slide in the carb that had a needle in the bottom was loose like that. Its meant to keep things from binding and allow for expansion due to heat/cooling cycles. That also allows them to spin slightly so they wear evenly instead of creating flats pots in the needles.
I also think you will find that depending on the quality and maker of said carb kits, the needles are made with incorrect tapers, which can actually cause worse mixture conditions then just using the old "worn" needles.
Well thanks for the info, this problem was solved a while ago, and I'm starting to feel like I might want to look into converting to the Mikuni VM32's anyways.
And on a side note, I had no idea there was a discount at DCC for simply having 100 posts... Is this true?
Well thanks for the info, this problem was solved a while ago, and I'm starting to feel like I might want to look into converting to the Mikuni VM32's anyways.
And on a side note, I had no idea there was a discount at DCC for simply having 100 posts... Is this true?
Far as I know yes, there was a run earlier before the holidays where there were a few ppl just posting one or two word responses on old threads and in some of the new ones. Ticked quite a few of the old members off if I am not mistaken. There's pages and pages of rants about, I donno what the bid deal is, I've never spent more than 100$ with them at any one time, rather just give them the money. Like Myd said, its 10% and you have to make sure to tell them so they will check before sending you the bill.
I know they do sell a Mikuni kit that is tuned right for a 450, may be the way to go instead of pulling out hair. If you do swap to them lemme know I might buy the old ones off you.
IMO lloydie you didn't necessarily do anything wrong, as you were actually trying to give advice, but like they said before, its kind of believed that after about 2-3 months a thread is typically considered dead. Even if it never got a reply. For reasons like my situation where I got more info and help on my build page then I did here.
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