Need More TiG Help!!

[johnu]

Well I got the TiG fired up and it seems to work ok accept that on the low setting it won't arc up unless I give it full peddle then it will just butn a big hole. I am working with 20gauge cold roll sheet and I am using the middle 35amp setting (just because the low 5 amp doesn't seem to be working) but I have to run it with the pedal almost off to keep the amps down and sometimes it just shuts off because I am backing off the pedal too much. Anybody have any insight as to why I can't get it to run on the low range? I assume that the 5amp position is the lowest and with the pedal it would go up to 35amp, is that correct? I tried playing with the high freq dial and the current control but still no joy on the low range. Also how far from the work should I be holding the tungsten? I am using 1/16 red tungsten.

 

[xb33bsa]

take a look at the high freak points they may need to be cleaned and gapped... no, this is not a joke)
looking at the hi freak switch make sure it is in the start position as well not OFF

 

[johnu]

take a look at the high freak points they may need to be cleaned and gapped... no, this is not a joke)
looking at the hi freak switch make sure it is in the start position as well not OFF

Thanks! I think that could be the problem.

 

[Nebr_Rex]

Try upping your current control.


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[Tune-A-Fish]

How many amps is the machine? is it scratch and sniff. lift arc or HF start? The 35 amp “min” is the low “start amps” run the intensity up to the 4th notch. DCSP is a narrow weld pool and might be why you are blowing holes try the DCRP mode “reversed polarity” that will flatten the weld pool... as for the tungsten I use 2% thoriated red tip or 2.0% Lanthanated blue tip for most everything in general... grind with a clean stone the same as a chisel not 90 deg to the wheel, I use a cheap diamond set from harbor freight in the drill press and chuck the tungsten up in my cordless and grind five or 10 at a time 1/16” for 20ga run the gas at 20cfm or just under, keep the torch close to upright and push the weld with 1/8-1/4" between the work and tungsten, sometimes steel looks solid when its actually pooling... dab the filler in early and see how that goes. Check your pedal for dirt too… that is no joke either, it’s basically a rheostat and could need a rub with a green scotch bright (if it’s the old school box) Don't waist a bunch of time on one power setting move it around and keep trying... you should be welding with 100-150 amps at the arc, bump the gas to get the cup charged before lining up, that can help start things also.

Guys who do this all day can dial these in with there eyes closed, it takes me some doing but I usually find the sweet spot after some tweaking, I bought a cheap 200 amp inverter with digital amp meter and that has made life easier 8)

 

[jcw]

20g on any machine is going to be difficult. On that machine, I don't know...
using the 1amp per .001" thickness guide, you'd be running about 35amps.
I don't know how stable those old transformers are at that level.

Keeping the tungsten sharpened to a needle point will help with low amp starts.

Did you blow out the machine with compressed air? I bought an old miller 330 A/BP (I mean REALLY old. I think the serial number dated ti from the 60 or 70's) and when I brought it home, I took the covers off and blew out about 10 pounds of dust and metal grindings. Even then, the low end wasn't great.

If you are just doing steel, consider getting an affordable Chinese dc inverter tig. I bought an everlast and can't complain one bit. Uses about 1/5 the electricity, too.

 

[johnu]

take a look at the high freak points they may need to be cleaned and gapped... no, this is not a joke)
looking at the hi freak switch make sure it is in the start position as well not OFF

Did the points today, cleaned and gapped (0.007") but still no joy. There must be something else going on in there, might have to get a pro to take a look at it.

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Your high frequency setting is too low.

The high frequency arc stabilization is a high voltage, low current overlay of your welding current. What is does is maintain an ionized path for the current so that your arc starts easily without touching the electrode, and can stay lit at low current.

Also, make sure you are properly sharpening your electrodes. Use thoriated tungsten, and grind the point in line with the electrode, not cross grind it.

If you don't know what I mean by this, then we have to talk further to get you started.

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

I went back and looked at your pictures again.

Set the high frequency to "continuous" for low current welding. You need the high frequency to stabilize your arc the whole time you are working, not just for starting the arc.

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

http://www.ncpwb.org/technicalresources/NCPWB-TR-How_to_Prepare_Electrodes.pdf

 

[johnu]

I went back and looked at your pictures again.

Set the high frequency to "continuous" for low current welding. You need the high frequency to stabilize your arc the whole time you are working, not just for starting the arc.

Ok thanks. I tried the high freq at it's highest setting but it made no difference. I will try it on the continuous setting.

 

[ncologerojr]

I highly recommend creating an account and posting up over at the welding web forums. There are a lot of pros over there who know these machines inside-out. That forum was invaluable when I was learning to tig.
As fas as distance from your work piece, it kind of depends. Basically not so close that you dip the tungsten when adding filler, and if you start drifting too far away you will see the arc destabilize and wonder. For now just look for that nice stable arc.
With thin sheet metal you might want to try pumping the pedal until you get better with heat control. You would keep on the pedal just enough to hold a light arc and then push the pedal right as you add filler, then back off the pedal and repeat. A lot of good welders use this method often. Pretty soon welding 20ga will be a walk in the park.

*Just my opinion. I'm far from an expert, but I think my welds are pretty good. Good luck!

 

[johnu]

I highly recommend creating an account and posting up over at the welding web forums. There are a lot of pros over there who know these machines inside-out. That forum was invaluable when I was learning to tig.
As fas as distance from your work piece, it kind of depends. Basically not so close that you dip the tungsten when adding filler, and if you start drifting too far away you will see the arc destabilize and wonder. For now just look for that nice stable arc.
With thin sheet metal you might want to try pumping the pedal until you get better with heat control. You would keep on the pedal just enough to hold a light arc and then push the pedal right as you add filler, then back off the pedal and repeat. A lot of good welders use this method often. Pretty soon welding 20ga will be a walk in the park.

*Just my opinion. I'm far from an expert, but I think my welds are pretty good. Good luck!

Thanks for the info! Work has gotten in the way of play these last couple of months so no time to play with the Tig. hoping to give it another go next week.