New CL100 Owner

[trek97]

Cool. 8)

I would carefully cut the little welded brackets w dremel, to remove handles. Then work on the remaining welds w grinder. (Gingerly) to remove them as clean as possible. Glass bead blast the heck out of em, Primer, Touch up any marks w Bondo, Glaze, Primer, Then respray. Maybe, even to match bike. Red w white stripes near the bottom...(match tank)

VHT black wrinkle might also look nice. and help hide any imperfections.

 

[coyote13]

I wouldn't remove the brackets at all, they could make a good tiedown point if you're carrying something oversized on your rack. Also don't have to worry about hacking up the lids that way

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks for the ideas, fellas. Coyote, for a while I was thinking the same thing. My Godzilla parade-float balloon blows around quite a bit back there, so some beefy anchor points would come in handy. The gap under the brackets was pretty slim, though, so I figured additional hardware or some other gizmo would be necessary for hooking bungees, anyway. Maybe I missed something there. My plan is to add u-bolts at the corners of the lids, instead. Hopefully that'll work OK. Nothing looks more ridiculous than an 18' inflatable Godzilla whipping around precariously on the back of a 100cc motorbike.

The brackets themselves came off fairly easily, which I didn't expect. I used my dremel and a couple cut-off discs and hardly had to putty at all afterward.

Trek, I don't really like the silverish Rustoleum, either. I bought the ammo cans used so they're already dented up a bit, and I'm sure I'll be kicking them with my boots and mistreating them further, so I figured I'd keep the finish simple for now. The wrinkle stuff looks pretty awesome, though. If I'd used that I wouldn't have to putty or sand at all.

 

[iatethepeach]

Re: New CL100 owner - cam chain adjustment

How did your cam chain adjustments work out?
Some time at a later it may help to remove the left alt. cover and then adjust the cam chain and get a 'feel' for exactly just how much to unscrew that slotted screw until it has sufficient resistance to keep the cam chain comfortably snug but not too tight.
That's the first step in determining if you have a good cam chain.

This afternoon I removed the left crankcase cover and stator so I could get a better look. Not good:

But since I haven't found any shavings in the oil, I'm hoping that water went under the bridge with the PO and my chain is OK...

So with the adjuster turned all the way out I should have maximum tension, correct? Here's the diagram in the FSM for reference:

The manual says to turn the adjuster in until I feel drag (which is when the rubber boot on the end of the nut comes into contact with the end of the tensioner). At that point, the side of the chain that's running along the guide (not along the tensioner) deflects a little less than 1/8". Does that sound reasonable? I'm asking because it doesn't seem to get tighter with the adjuster turned all the way out. And if I keep turning the adjuster in, past initial contact with the end of the tensioner, the chain loosens up, as expected, though it seems to do so very quickly. Does it sound like the chain or tensioner may be worn out?

 

[grcamna5]

I think you should replace your cam chain now and then do the initial adjustment while the stator rotor is removed so you can 'feel' & 'see' how tight you're adjusting the cam chain tension. for later reference.Make the adjustment again after you've run the engine for 600mi.

 

[iatethepeach]

OK, thanks! Do you know if I can I replace the chain with an endless-link chain without tearing apart the motor, or can I get one with a master link?

 

[grcamna5]

OK, thanks! Do you know if I can I replace the chain with an endless-link chain without tearing apart the motor, or can I get one with a master link?

You'll need to replace the cam chain w/ a new one,I'd use an oem stock end-less cam chain,as far as I know that 98 link chain is still available,all the CB125S models take the same one.Remove the camshaft to replace it along w/ the stator rotor/flywheel.

 

[iatethepeach]

Sounds like a party.

The fiche shows a 100-link chain for the scrambler. Does the CB125 use part number 14401-958-003?

The Honda chain appears to be about $40 more than an endless EK or DID. I'll get it if you think it's a good idea. And should I replace the tensioner at the same time? New ones are only $10.

Thanks, again!

 

[grcamna5]

Sounds like a party.

The fiche shows a 100-link chain for the scrambler. Does the CB125 use part number 14401-958-003?

The Honda chain appears to be about $40 more than an endless EK or DID. I'll get it if you think it's a good idea. And should I replace the tensioner at the same time? New ones are only $10.

Thanks, again!

I would pull the parts off and check the tensioner 'bow' piece for wear and only replace it if it's real worn;they last a long time.I'm having trouble understanding(especially after looking online and confirming your 100 link observation.. ?)that the chain is 100 links compared to 98 links on many I've taken apart.. Take the old chain off and physically count how many links it has.The XL/XR185 & all the XR200R's use the 100 link chain because the stroke is longer on the rod and the cylinder is taller(57.8mm) than the 49.5mm stroke of the CB100 & CB125 models.. I did look at many CB100 & 125 models parts break downs and noticed the older models(pre '383' center Honda code i.e. before 1976')say "100 link chain" : Yeah,remove the camshaft and count the links on the cam chain,I'd like to know myself. ???
I think the stock oem Honda cam chain is 'DiD' and if you can get it for less w/ that brand i would.

 

[iatethepeach]

Since I don't have a real garage and all of a sudden it's scrambler weather here, I'm going to mark the chain with a sharpie tomorrow and count the links in situ. That way we can thoroughly explore the minutiae of these motors while I get some riding in. Thanks for taking the time to explain and get me pointed in the right direction.

 

[iatethepeach]

I'm leaning toward something like this for the panniers. Mostly because I already have all the colors in my paint cabinet.

Then maybe some stickers. Too outrageous? Nowhere near as classy as matching the tank, I know.

 

[grcamna5]

In like the luggage boxes for extra capacity on the CB/CL100 & 125's;I imagine there are lots of these bikes all over the World/Third-World that are running many different styles of hard luggage.
I'm going to be using an old pr. of stock BMW/Krauser racks and find a welder who will piece it together and mount them all to my custom top rack so I can carry a few more things.I bought a good pr. of vintage Krauser 'Starlet' saddlebags along w/ the rack that I wanted to use on ebay last Winter and I'm going to be mounting this all up to my own CB125S real soon

 

[grcamna5]

Since I don't have a real garage and all of a sudden it's scrambler weather here, I'm going to mark the chain with a sharpie tomorrow and count the links in situ. That way we can thoroughly explore the minutiae of these motors while I get some riding in. Thanks for taking the time to explain and get me pointed in the right direction.

That's a good idea w/ marking the chain first and rotating the engine so you can 'keep it in-play' until the new parts arrive.

 

[iatethepeach]

It turns out to be a 100-link chain. I'm a little nervous that doesn't mesh with your experience, but I counted twice. I'll keep my fingers crossed when I take it out that I've ordered the right part.

Your Krauser hard bags will be great on the CB. Are you going to make them easily detachable? I opted to bolt my boxes to the bike for the sake of simplicity and because I expect I'll want them on full-time. Placement was tricky but worked out perfectly, and they're very sturdy. Between your custom rack and lower pipe you should be able to mount your bags down and forward a bit, which would be an improvement over mine.

 

[grcamna5]

It turns out to be a 100-link chain. I'm a little nervous that doesn't mesh with your experience, but I counted twice. I'll keep my fingers crossed when I take it out that I've ordered the right part.

Your Krauser hard bags will be great on the CB. Are you going to make them easily detachable? I opted to bolt my boxes to the bike for the sake of simplicity and because I expect I'll want them on full-time. Placement was tricky but worked out perfectly, and they're very sturdy. Between your custom rack and lower pipe you should be able to mount your bags down and forward a bit, which would be an improvement over mine.

Then it's supposed to be 100 link on the 1st generation CB100/125's w/ the one-piece cyl. head.. ok. I have much more experience on the 2nd generation engines so please excuse my misinformation,it wasn't intentional.I would have found out when I did the next older one;the online parts description is accurate
I'm going to set-up the Krauser 'Starlet' bags on my CB125S just like they were on the old donor BMW R90/6 where they attach w/ a buckle lock and then lock-down.I was very challenged to find a key for that buckle lock,those things are impossible to locate.I did get lucky by finding a locksmith here locally that just happened to have an off-brand key that fits and works excellent;they don't even have anymore Sudhaus brand key blanks anywhere..

I plan on starting a thread when I get the bike complete to ride w/ all that soon;it's no 'show-piece' but it will certainly get the job done.

 

[iatethepeach]

I'll enjoy reading your CB thread. The plan for the Krauser cases sounds great. I've only had my panniers for a handful of rides but they've come in handy on each trip. So far they've toted a full set of tools (pretty much pannier #1's raison d'être), a hoagie, a spare sweatshirt, a bottle of whisky, some tastykakes, my GPS crap, WD40 (in a Broncos koozie to prevent rattling (gf's Broncos koozie)), books I checked out from the library, more tools I ordered online and had shipped to my PO box, and an emergency restocking of Meow Mix for my gf's cat. I can't wait for the locking hardware to arrive.

Since it's a quiet Saturday night, and everybody here likes bikes, I figured I'd share one of my favorite movies.

https://youtu.be/aDYHjG5Tnds

Thanks to J. Alfred Prufrock.

 

[iatethepeach]

I got a lot more riding in than I expected over the weekend, so this morning I changed the oil again and checked the screen. They were clean. The new cam chain and tensioner should be here in a couple days.

 

[grcamna5]

Looking good

 

[iatethepeach]

Here we go. A chain showed up in my mailbox today:

I probably should've thought of this question before I ordered parts, but can I use the wheel-spindle trick to remove the rotor on this bike? For the most part, the tools I have with me at the moment are just the routine-maintenance stuff.

How many local dealers does it take to install one of these, anyway? This makes me nervous.

 

[grcamna5]

A local dealer service dept. should only charge you $5 to remove that stator rotor w/ the correct threaded puller;ask them(or if you do it)to only tighten the rotor remover until it 'pops' and resist the temptation to try to 'jar'/strike the end of it w/ a hammer because that could change the 'true'/balance of your crankshaft.
This cam chain replacement is very easy;just remove that rotor wheel and slide the camshaft out after removing the 2 bolts of the cam sprocket,install those 2 bolts w/ some bue Locktite and torque them snug.
When you install the new chain just follow the Honda shop manual on how to set the marks for your cam timing,no sweat.