New stock CL350, just rejetted by mechanic. No power under 3k RPM. Stumped...
- Thread starter so2002
- Start date
Scooter trash
Been Around the Block
When the engine dies, see if it still kicks through, between compression strokes, as easy when it did when cold.so2002 said:
so2002
Been Around the Block
crazypj said:
Story of this bike...
Okay, so I pulled the petcock bowl and cleaned the filter. No traces of water.
But the filter was kind of grimy, so I cleaned it out.
After that, the dying at idle issues disappeared. I rode around for a while last night.
That being said, I'm quoting PJ for a reason ;D
I think the bike is grounding at the points plate. Or something involving the points plate. I was having trouble getting the bike started after a 10 minute ride. When I loosened the points plate, the RPM's jumped from 1k to 2.5k, and the bike started driving like a champ (after I readjusted idle). I put 45 minutes on it.
That's when Devil Bike kicked in again. She melted my turn signal relay. (the rubber band had broken and it was lying on the motor)
This also fried the wire connecting it, and luckily it was just the extension of the harness, so I can replace just that bit (I saved the ends)
After ripping the tank off under a streetlight (and getting gas EVERYWHERE in the meantime), I managed to limp home on 1 cylinder, while feathering the choke haha. Didn't get a chance to diagnose it, hope I didn't fry the right coil, but the right side pipes were (relatively) cold.
All in all a good night, I suppose, no tow trucks called. Got my work cut out for me next week though...
Not sure if I'm just an idiot or this bike is killing me haha
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Did you poke the crud out of the bottom of the filter bowl?
Looks like gravel in there?
You'll probably need to run it around until your just about out of gas and blast aerosol carb cleaner up into the tank filter (after pulling tap off)
May also be a good idea to check the drilling's in tap as cleaning bowl and filter has made a difference.
I ended up doing my 360 fuel tap and filter about 5 or 6 times before everything was actually clean and I stopped having problems, something just kept washing out of tank :
Looks like gravel in there?
You'll probably need to run it around until your just about out of gas and blast aerosol carb cleaner up into the tank filter (after pulling tap off)
May also be a good idea to check the drilling's in tap as cleaning bowl and filter has made a difference.
I ended up doing my 360 fuel tap and filter about 5 or 6 times before everything was actually clean and I stopped having problems, something just kept washing out of tank :
Scooter trash
Been Around the Block
When it dies, does the headlight get dim? The melted turn signal relay, raises a red flag. I would be helpful if you could check the battery voltage, when it does. Does the electric starter still work when it dies?
so2002
Been Around the Block
Scooter trash said:
The relay was 'grilled' on the engine when the rubber support broke. This caused a short, blowing the fuse and cooking one of the wires.
The starter's been on it's way out for a while now, but it was much worse after the incident. Barely cranking and making a fair amount of noise. Headlight appears to be same brightness as usual on or off.
so2002
Been Around the Block
While investigating the points cover, I noticed that one of the leaf springs of the points had shifted and was sticking out a little far. After pushing it back in, I noticed that the firing on one cylinder issue disappeared once I had the cover on. The bike is running pretty well, I haven't remade the blinker wire extension, so it's currently without blinkers, but fine otherwise.
The bike seems a bit rich, particularly down low. I get a fair amount of back firing and the throttle is a bit sluggish at low RPM compared to the higher RPM. Currently am 1 full turn out and the plugs are black, very rich. (Since the adjustment screw is closer to the engine than the airbox on my Keihin 3D carbs, I believe that means that turning the adjustment screw in leans things out, correct?) Is it time to swap idle jets, or keep turning in?
The bike seems a bit rich, particularly down low. I get a fair amount of back firing and the throttle is a bit sluggish at low RPM compared to the higher RPM. Currently am 1 full turn out and the plugs are black, very rich. (Since the adjustment screw is closer to the engine than the airbox on my Keihin 3D carbs, I believe that means that turning the adjustment screw in leans things out, correct?) Is it time to swap idle jets, or keep turning in?
ohiocaferacer
Been Around the Block
Run stock jetting with those CV carbs.
Slow(Pilot) Jet= 35
Primary Jet = 105
Secondary Jet = 68
Pilot Screw out 3/4 turns
It sounds like your points cover is shorting out on the wires at the bottom of your points. Try running around with your points cover off and see if your problem goes away.
I've seen where the blue and yellow wire connects to the points, at that screw......be too close to the cover and will spark and ground out on the points cover.
Sometime you have to bend those connections up to space them away from the cover.
Slow(Pilot) Jet= 35
Primary Jet = 105
Secondary Jet = 68
Pilot Screw out 3/4 turns
It sounds like your points cover is shorting out on the wires at the bottom of your points. Try running around with your points cover off and see if your problem goes away.
I've seen where the blue and yellow wire connects to the points, at that screw......be too close to the cover and will spark and ground out on the points cover.
Sometime you have to bend those connections up to space them away from the cover.
so2002
Been Around the Block
I'll check the wires again, but I'm pretty sure it was the leaf spring part of the points, it had shifted and was sticking out. My points connections to the wires are on the inside, as XB recommends, and I think they're pretty well tucked in there, but I'll double check that.
As for the Pilot screw, I was under the impression that you're only supposed to stay in the 1-2 turn range, but will experiment downwards.
Thanks guys!
Mike
As for the Pilot screw, I was under the impression that you're only supposed to stay in the 1-2 turn range, but will experiment downwards.
Thanks guys!
Mike
so2002
Been Around the Block
Well... I'm back to only running on 1 cylinder
Not really sure what is causing it, but I'm not getting spark at the right sparkplug. 12.8v at the battery, 10.8V going into both coils, .014-.015 gap on the points. Taking the points cover off does not solve the issue. Also, not seeing any spark on the right point when running. Will break out the book and see if I can find the root of the issue.
This bike is driving me nuts :-\
Not really sure what is causing it, but I'm not getting spark at the right sparkplug. 12.8v at the battery, 10.8V going into both coils, .014-.015 gap on the points. Taking the points cover off does not solve the issue. Also, not seeing any spark on the right point when running. Will break out the book and see if I can find the root of the issue.
This bike is driving me nuts :-\
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
You may have to dismantle the points wire bolt and check all the insulators are in correct places so the terminal can't short out on anything.
Should have (from bolt head) steel washer, insulating washer, insulating spacer, insulating washer, steel washer, lock washer, nut
The terminal fits between steel washer and insulating washer at nut end, you usually have to flip them over compared to pic so it doesn't touch back plate.
The tiny spacer may be missing or broken allowing bolt to touch the metal stationary part of points bolt goes through?
Should have (from bolt head) steel washer, insulating washer, insulating spacer, insulating washer, steel washer, lock washer, nut
The terminal fits between steel washer and insulating washer at nut end, you usually have to flip them over compared to pic so it doesn't touch back plate.
The tiny spacer may be missing or broken allowing bolt to touch the metal stationary part of points bolt goes through?
