Not finding the answer: Honda left hand control wires

[tweakedlogic]

So yesterday I decided it was a good idea to rewire the CB360. It's minimal, no clocks, no idiot lights, no starter. Already wired up is: regulator/rectifier, kill switch, coils, turn indicators, flasher relay, and alternator. I'm having trouble with a few wires from the left hand controls. I know that orange and light blue wires are to the turn signals, blue and white are headlight.

My issues are with the black/white, orange/white, blue/white wires. On the diagram it looks like the yellow wire (from alternator) and a yellow/white go to the headlight switch. But I don't have those wires in the switch.

orange/white goes where?
Black/white goes where?
blue/white goes where?

I'm almost finished with this. Once I have these last wires figured out I can cut and solder the long wires, and loom everything.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tweakedlogic]

One more quick related question. I want to upgrade the regulator rectifier, anyone used the Honda FH014AA from 06+ bikes? It's only 5 wires and is MOSfet. I've seen some of the Aprilla guys use them. I have a local source so I can get it tomorrow if it's going to work well.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

5 Wire regulator is not for a CB360. CB360 uses 3 wires. 2 AC from the alternator, one DC to the battery. 5 wire is probably for a 3 phase alternator. CB360 is a one phase, split coil. Wire white and yellow together for max output, then yellow and pink are the 2 AC leads

Blue/white is right running light. Orange white is left running light. they are wired into the left turn signal switch. the running light goes off on the side that is signalling to make the signal more visible. If you are not using the stock switch, you probably can't make them work with an aftermarket switch. Or you can power them on with the tail light.

Black white is for the kill switch on the right switch. Not sure why you have it on the left.

Sure it's not Black Yellow, which is power to the switch for the headlight?

You may be looking at a wrong schematic. The late model 75 and 76 CB360s have different wiring in the handlebars. If you do not have a headlight on/off switch on the right switch pod, then you have the late model....need the late model schematic....

PM me if that is the case with your e-mail and I'll send you a PDF file of the correct schematic.

 

[tweakedlogic]

The rectifier i was talking about is also the regulator. Three wires from the alternator, and two to the battery (positive and negative). I don't know if it's for a 3 phase or not. I was interested because of the MOSFET design versus the FET set up that is wasteful and gets really hot.

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

So your saying I should wire the pink and yellow wire together before the regulator/rectifier?

I'm not using the stock lights, just LEDs, so I won't need the org/wht or blu/wht wires at all. I do have the blk/wht wire on the right side for the kill switch. The left is black/yellow, brought out more light and could see it clearly. So, should it be hooked to the Black wire (power), or the yellow wire? I think it was hooked to the yellow wire originally (though I may be wrong).

 

[tweakedlogic]

One more thing...
Is the green/red wire from the alternator the neutral switch?

Thanks again for all of you help. You cleared up most everything.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

The yellow and white get spliced. Pink is one side of ac, the yellow the other

The combo reg/rect still only needs 3 wires, the metal case has to be grounded.

Green red is neutral switch.

Not needed if you removed the light.

See my build, near the end. I put a $20 Kohler reg/ rect on. 3,wires plus ground the case.


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[mydlyfkryzis]

Black/white is power to coils. Check the schematic. You will need to put switched 12v to the coils


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[tweakedlogic]

See my build, near the end. I put a $20 Kohler reg/ rect on. 3,wires plus ground the case.

I've considered that one, even have one. But this honda one is MOSFET, = much less heat. It has current and voltage sensing, good for up to 30 amps I think. Basically the bee's knees of regulators. I think I might go ahead and try it to see what happens and pass on my gained knowledge.

Black/white is power to coils. Check the schematic. You will need to put switched 12v to the coils

Yeah I have that one handled. Switched power to the kill switch, then to the coils.

But the black/yellow one... If I'm reading right, it should also have switched power, correct?

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Alternator is max 9 amps

Below 14.5 volts the regulator does nothing.

The regulator only limits voltage.

MOSFET is nice, but offers no improvement in function. Most of the time the regulator is not doing anything at all.

For a permanent magnet alternator, it's a waste. For a field regulated alternator it is a different story.

Your money.


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[tweakedlogic]

you make good points

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

The regulators on these bikes does a regulated short to ground to keep the voltage from exceeding 15 volts +/- 0.5 volts on the OEM regulator. Essentially the variable short to ground just keeps the voltage in line with a variable load. Whether you have mosfet or SCR, there will be heat.

On a field excited alternator, their is a regulated current to the field that increases or decreases the magnetic field in the rotor. These systems benefit from Mosfet because there is less wasted energy from heat. On a permanent magnet alternator, all excess is turned to heat. A more efficient device doesn't help or hurt, just cost a little extra.

In addition, the unit you are looking at, with 5 wires, is for 3 phase units. We have a single phase. The 30 amp rating is 10 amps per phase, so using it as a single phase reverts it to a 10 amp rating.

Do what you want, just understand what you are doing.