O2 sensor + CB360 = interesting tidbits for everyone.

I wouldn't worry too much about exhaust pipe temps, the gas will be around 700~1000f when valve opens. (maybe even more?)
With a dual wall pipe it takes a while for the outside temp to build up.
Single wall pipes will be glowing dull red when running right, somewhere around 750f, going to about 1200+ at max rpm (but airflow at higher speed increases airflow and cools things back down)
Here's link to steel heat colours
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/tempering-colors-steel-d_1530.html

You only ever see the real bright yellows/orange on dyno when there isn't enough airflow
 
Is float level still 19.5 or did you return to 21mm?
The higher fuel level in bowl at 19.5mm richens things up all the way from idle to max rpm
 
crazypj said:
Is float level still 19.5 or did you return to 21mm?
The higher fuel level in bowl at 19.5mm richens things up all the way from idle to max rpm

Mine is currently still at 19.5, and Thanks to you and all your efforts. She is running fantastic.

Rode over to Bromz house the other night, 24mi round trip basically 4-6 mile stretches running between 75 -83 mph. And stopping in a small town between. She purred like a kitten. I had 530 temps on headers. Keeping between 12 and 13 to 1 A/F ratio. All speeds all gears. It will momentarily dip to 11ish at 4k but only for a second...causes no running issues at all.

Thankyou PJ!

The only reason I got the new Honda Diaphragms is the ones I currently have installed are nice, but old. Eventually they will tear a hole. I will install these and put the original pair up on the shelf...just in case.

Just tired of messing w the JBMs
 
I posted in another thread, E-10 has lower SG than the leaded fuel carbs were designed for which gives a higher fuel level in carb.
Try raising float level to 20~21mm, should give 12.5~13:1 AF
 
crazypj said:
I posted in another thread, E-10 has lower SG than the leaded fuel carbs were designed for which gives a higher fuel level in carb.
Try raising float level to 20~21mm, should give 12.5~13:1 AF

I really dont think you're understanding what I am putting out there. As she currently sits, I dont believe a 360 could run better.

I honestly believe these past few weeks is the longest I have gone without a carb change in the past 4 years. ;D

So, whats next, you ask. This weekend I am making another change. I am gonna try the 41s and the new slides/springs.

Then if she is exactly the same or shows any improvement I am gonna get the experimental emulsion tubes installed.

And like you said, maybe start from scratch! With a 21mm float. ::)
 
crazypj said:
If I remember right, 360 will do an indicated 60mph in 3rd at max rpm with 110/80x18 rear tyre and 17-34 sprockets

Every Honda Twin 350 and up that I've ridden, I've made note at how easily it will indicate 60mph in second with plenty of revs to red. Even a geared down option like the SL350. According to GearingCommander, it would expect to hit 60mph at 6,521rpm with a 17/34 setup. Not sure how accurate that is in real world indications :)

PJ, as you're very aware, we have to compensate for unleaded fuel characteristics when working on anything designed in the lead era, which ended somewhere between the late 80's and early 90's.

David Vizard has explained that unleaded burns faster. So would it require any measurable decrease in ignition timing to compensate? I know of a Vespa specialist here that pointed this out to me, having worked on engines for well over 45 years. He states that with modern fuels, it's best to set the initial timing to exactly between the T and F mark of ancient motors. Set advanced timing to between the two full advance marks.

That was particularly referencing a '68 CB450 he had.

What say, mate?
 
now 6 weeks and counting to opening day...

only thing i got done on the bike is change out diaphragms. but, have yet to fire her up.

old lady asked me to pull the headlights out of her subaru cause they filled w water and polish the lenses.

I guess Im old school, but there are zero metal fasteners (bolts) holding the whole front end on this forester. Just a handful of plastic push pins. easy work but just dont seem right.

11494-150814173357-529112.jpeg


11494-150814173357-5331502.jpeg


The old lady got busy polishing them. The yellowing haze was bad enough you couldnt see the bulbs through them.

Heres to hoping they last this way for a year or two.

She really did a good job on them.
11494-150814173357-534337.jpeg
 
Most foreign cars require that you remove the front end or even drop the whole steering rack to drain headlights. Go on with your smug American elitism.
 
deviant said:
Haha. You really had to pull the whole front end off to polish the headlights?

the headlights are sealed boxes. In order to remove the whole unit to drain the water and clean them up, yes. Then heat the seals w heat gun and pop them open to remove lenses. then polish and install new sealing gaskets, (super sticky gummy gaskets) and squish them back together. and hope they are water tight.

I told the old lady if they leak water again Im just gonna drill holes in them. then simply polish them on the car.

To remove the whole front end only took about 30 minutes...even less time now that I know how to do it.

So, if she ever bangs it up. Ill I have to do is cruise the movie theatre parking lot until I find a nice one that matches and pop it off and toss it in the back.
 
I'd just go ahead and drill holes in the bottoms of them and then plug them with a removable plug so you don't have to do it again 8)
 
deviant said:
My wife drives a Scion, dumb ass. You don't have to remove the front end to pull the headlight units on her car.

>Inability to think critically
>Or actually believes there is a procedure in OEM manuals to drain headlights
>Calls me the dumb ass

The plugs are key because without them, condensation will fog up the insides and leave dust and streaks.
 
Can you point out where I said anything about REMOVING headlights?

This one just went over your head, kid-o.

Don't confuse inability with disinterest. That concept as well is over your head.
 
Wow, back to school.

Ok kids, can you point to the verb that pertains to the noun, "headlights?" Is it "remove?" Is it "drop?" Is it "require?" Or is there another verb here that seems to be imperceptible to the pre-schoolers? All together class, it's "drain!"

Great, now I miss my first year in school: instructing the other kids to read alongside the teacher.
 
I don't know how this escalated, but it's pretty dumb, and got very personal. Chill the fuck out. Redliners initial comment was obviously sarcastic... Also he used the word "most" which means his comment could exclude your wife's Scion entirely. Hallelujah! You're safe from sweeping remarks

EDIT: I write this comment completely ignorant of any prior beef you two may have.
 
>Implying pride in American vehicles is implicitly shameful.

I live in the U.S. now by CHOICE. Make of that whatever you will.
 
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