Paint or powdercoat for white wheel?
- Thread starter Quester
- Start date
Big R
Heaven is so far away.
The COLOR white is a bad idea unless you enjoy cleaning them often! 
Seriously though, painting them just isn't as durable as powder coating. You'll definitely want a very strong clear coat (I recommend Spraymax 2K Clear). If you decide to powder coat them, they need to be spotless and you'll be replacing the wheel bearings.
Seriously though, painting them just isn't as durable as powder coating. You'll definitely want a very strong clear coat (I recommend Spraymax 2K Clear). If you decide to powder coat them, they need to be spotless and you'll be replacing the wheel bearings.
ILoveThumpers
Everywhere is thumpers!
$200 is reasonable; wheels can be a pain in the ass.
The best looking white IMHO is flat white. You can't do that very well with paint but the flat white powders are sick.
Powder will also stand up to the constant washing you'll be doing. :
-Deek
The best looking white IMHO is flat white. You can't do that very well with paint but the flat white powders are sick.
Powder will also stand up to the constant washing you'll be doing. :
-Deek
AlphaDogChoppers
Science is true whether you believe in it or not.
That price is about right. Prices for that run about $160-$200 for one color on two wheels.
Powdercoat is dramatically more durable than paint.
Powdercoat is dramatically more durable than paint.
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
Price is right. I charge $100 for a single stage and $150 for 2 stage color. Here is a pair I did yesterday in a Pearlescent White with a clear coat. On wheels powder is going to be a lot more durable and with a clear coat they will be much easier to clean with just soapy water, no "cleaners" are really necessary. If you compare professional painting to powder coating the price is comparable and most often powder is cheaper.
I did the same on my CBR600f1 wheels on my CB400F:
I did the same on my CBR600f1 wheels on my CB400F:
powder of course! and to be honest if you powder them they clean so much easier... we have 2 bikes in the family with white wheels and have done several for customers... go with a clear no fling chain lube and you will be fine as you can see from the pics i am a huge fan of white on wheels... think it is super clean!
then again if you are worried abotu keeping them clean you can always get creative and 2 tone them
then again if you are worried abotu keeping them clean you can always get creative and 2 tone them
Beeweldmut
Been Around the Block
What's the process when you powder the spokes? Do you just true the wheel and powder it with the hope that you never have to adjust the spokes? Or do you do each piece separate and try not to scratch them?
ILoveThumpers
Everywhere is thumpers!
Beeweldmut said:
I've only ever done my GL wheels and I had to order new spokes from Buchannon so I did the rim, nipples, spokes and hub all separately then assembled it afterwards. When doing it that way the trick is to stop the coating short of the area where the threads will engage the nipples. Also, you have to true/tension them from the nipple side using the slot. Adjusting with a nipple wrench would probably crack the coating. Maybe.
But I have also heard of people doing them all at once. If you look closely at the nipple/spoke you'll see there is some clearance between the two where they engage eachother (the threads start a little ways down) so I doubt you'd see any cracking there. The only place you might see some is at the hub but there's not much flexing going on there and the powder can take quite a bit.
-Deek
P.S. that's the front; I have the rear hoop/spokes/nipples done but the hub needs to be coated yet. If anyone is interested in the set (I also have brand new Spitfires for them) they're for sale. (I'll coat the hub before selling if I get a buyer)
we also break them down, lace, and true them... on occasion i have shot some of my own bikes/customers bikes assembled. problem is you can no longer true the wheel when you do this assembled. So we will true the wheel prior to coating (pending the customer pays for that) some will just ask us to blast and shoot. granted that said i have never really seen a wheel come out of true, we also use dyna beads in the wheel as that will best compinsate for any issues we may run into. But the main issue you come to is when you bend a spoke or rim, the whole wheel has to be stripped and redone... it really breaks down to $$$$ but we do both in the shop pending the customer is completely aware of what they are doing.
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
The 3 main issues with coating a wheel assembled are where the nipple meets the rim, where the spoke enters the hub, and in some cases, where spokes cross each other and touch . if using a proper spoke wrench you will not damage or scratch the powder on the nipple when truing. As mentioned, the threads don't start at the tip of the nipple but further in, so this is not usually an issue by a pro. Beginners have a tendency to load the powder on and then it may become an issue there.
