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EricTresch
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crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
The absolute best mod on 360 is to bore 2mm oversize and use Suzuki GS850 pistons.
Everyone who has done it (and gotten finished) is pretty amazed by the difference
The lower yoke is cast steel (I think?) so doesn't need changing. Top is a brittle cast alloy, swapping that is a good idea but stock suspension isn't up to much more than smooth gravel roads
There are probably several Honda fork swaps that are easy, I've never done the easy ones though ;D
The absolute best mod on 360 is to bore 2mm oversize and use Suzuki GS850 pistons.
Everyone who has done it (and gotten finished) is pretty amazed by the difference
The lower yoke is cast steel (I think?) so doesn't need changing. Top is a brittle cast alloy, swapping that is a good idea but stock suspension isn't up to much more than smooth gravel roads
There are probably several Honda fork swaps that are easy, I've never done the easy ones though ;D
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
OK, bookmarked...so, get this party started.
My only recommendations.
Make it run before taking it apart, make it safe, go for a ride, keep some sort of fenders on it (front and rear), say no Coker Firestones, and no open pipes.
And finally for the love of god and everything holy...its a 360 so keep both, the electric starter and center stand.
Besides that, do anything you want...and post pics.
OK, bookmarked...so, get this party started.
My only recommendations.
Make it run before taking it apart, make it safe, go for a ride, keep some sort of fenders on it (front and rear), say no Coker Firestones, and no open pipes.
And finally for the love of god and everything holy...its a 360 so keep both, the electric starter and center stand.
Besides that, do anything you want...and post pics.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
Don't worry about the starter and center stand if you're really making it a dirt ride. Both are weight and the center stand takes up clearance. The motor is a heavy lump compared to a similar displacement thumper, but I'm of the mindset it can be a decent dual sport as far as vintage dual sports go. The taller the wheel the slower the turning, but the easier it is go over obstacles. Figure out exactly how much dirt vs road riding you'll do and buy tires accordingly. Dual sport tires are usually rated 80/20 dirt/road, 20/80 dirt/road, 60/40 dirt/road, etc. Don't use HID unless HID is low amperage. You want to keep lighting amperage at a minimum, not the other way around. You also want lighting that can handle a lot of vibration.
Don't worry about the starter and center stand if you're really making it a dirt ride. Both are weight and the center stand takes up clearance. The motor is a heavy lump compared to a similar displacement thumper, but I'm of the mindset it can be a decent dual sport as far as vintage dual sports go. The taller the wheel the slower the turning, but the easier it is go over obstacles. Figure out exactly how much dirt vs road riding you'll do and buy tires accordingly. Dual sport tires are usually rated 80/20 dirt/road, 20/80 dirt/road, 60/40 dirt/road, etc. Don't use HID unless HID is low amperage. You want to keep lighting amperage at a minimum, not the other way around. You also want lighting that can handle a lot of vibration.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
You will never get better advice. Get it running and drive it for a few weeks. Has nothing to do with your other bikes, just this one. It is excellent advice even if you are an expert. Even if you are an expert on the particular bike you plan to start with and intend to go through and alter every single part except the ignition key.
Looks like you have done your homework on what you want. Don't attempt to alter the "stance" of your bike unless you know what you are doing. Changing the wheel diameter(s) and fork offset will noticeably impact the handling. Not necessarily badly, just understand that it will so learn how and compare to how you like the way it drives now. (another great reason for riding it around a bit - how in the world could you know what you want to change performance-wise unless you know what you like and don't like?) I am very partial to RaceTech for suspension. If you understand how you want to improve your chassis and how gussets/braces work and how to correctly fabricate and implement them fine, otherwise you will be well served to save your time. There are a lot of 360 guys on here so hopefully you can find out if there are known useful mods to the chassis. Rule of thumb is only one size up on rim widths. Over large tires are invariably a very noticeable downgrade in performance, especially on the front.
best of luck - interested to see where you go with this.
trek97 said:make it run and ride it
You will never get better advice. Get it running and drive it for a few weeks. Has nothing to do with your other bikes, just this one. It is excellent advice even if you are an expert. Even if you are an expert on the particular bike you plan to start with and intend to go through and alter every single part except the ignition key.
Looks like you have done your homework on what you want. Don't attempt to alter the "stance" of your bike unless you know what you are doing. Changing the wheel diameter(s) and fork offset will noticeably impact the handling. Not necessarily badly, just understand that it will so learn how and compare to how you like the way it drives now. (another great reason for riding it around a bit - how in the world could you know what you want to change performance-wise unless you know what you like and don't like?) I am very partial to RaceTech for suspension. If you understand how you want to improve your chassis and how gussets/braces work and how to correctly fabricate and implement them fine, otherwise you will be well served to save your time. There are a lot of 360 guys on here so hopefully you can find out if there are known useful mods to the chassis. Rule of thumb is only one size up on rim widths. Over large tires are invariably a very noticeable downgrade in performance, especially on the front.
best of luck - interested to see where you go with this.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
Let me clarify. You dont have to ride w the center stand intact and on the bike. Sure, remove it. Just dont cut the mounts off. That way you can keep the stand on the shelf and easily quickly simply slip it on and off when need be. I just keep a 5/8x7 inch bolt w it on the shelf.
deviant said:
Let me clarify. You dont have to ride w the center stand intact and on the bike. Sure, remove it. Just dont cut the mounts off. That way you can keep the stand on the shelf and easily quickly simply slip it on and off when need be. I just keep a 5/8x7 inch bolt w it on the shelf.
redwillissuperman
Keep it simple- engine, wheels, bars
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
I would just go for it. Don't start with a cream puff bike, but in the end you are replacing 99% of it anyways.
Since Mikuni conversions are on my mind, here is my two cents:
- this can't be so hard to master. 26mm or 28mm round slide Mikuni carbs or "flat slides" or OKO Koso PWK carbs should work but never seem to. I'm planning a CB360 test stand with dual wide band monitors, but I'm still looking for a small land n sea absorber. My old setup showed you can have a perfect idle and shitty part throttle, or rich idle and good part throttle. Will keep you informed.
I would just go for it. Don't start with a cream puff bike, but in the end you are replacing 99% of it anyways.
Since Mikuni conversions are on my mind, here is my two cents:
- this can't be so hard to master. 26mm or 28mm round slide Mikuni carbs or "flat slides" or OKO Koso PWK carbs should work but never seem to. I'm planning a CB360 test stand with dual wide band monitors, but I'm still looking for a small land n sea absorber. My old setup showed you can have a perfect idle and shitty part throttle, or rich idle and good part throttle. Will keep you informed.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
Personally, I'm looking at a PD conversion with an accelerator pump to compare with a 28mm Mikuni on mine. But, the 28mm Mikuni is known to work very well on a CB360.redwillissuperman said:
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
The EX500 Ninja (and EX250) forks are pretty much a bolt-on using the bearing set from AllBalls. They're 37mm, so more hefty than the stocker 33mm legs. You pretty much need to have a billet top triple, though, though the Kawi top and bars could work. I believe somebody on here found a disc that would bolt to the 360 front hub so you could use the EX caliper and mount. EX stuff might be easier to find and cheaper than Katana stuff, not sure.
EricTresch said:
The EX500 Ninja (and EX250) forks are pretty much a bolt-on using the bearing set from AllBalls. They're 37mm, so more hefty than the stocker 33mm legs. You pretty much need to have a billet top triple, though, though the Kawi top and bars could work. I believe somebody on here found a disc that would bolt to the 360 front hub so you could use the EX caliper and mount. EX stuff might be easier to find and cheaper than Katana stuff, not sure.
Mr.E
Got to keep the loonies on the path...
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
On the suspension: this is just me speculating from a barstool in my shop, but something about the katana fork/gsxr doesnt jive. You mentioned keeping the stock hub - which is good because I'm guessing that means you will also retain a larger than sportbike size front wheel. You will definitely want that the first time you see something you wanna get closer too on the other side of a ditch on a gravel road. Put a smaller sportbike wheel (doesnt matter how knobby) on there coupled with forks that will either match or reduce front end travel and its ass over tits as soon as you hit the ditch. a cb750 front end will go on there really easy, and give you more meat in the forks, then you can retain stock wheel size, or use a 21" old school XL/MT/Elsinore wheel too. OR, keep an eye out with scrappers, you can snag a complete front end off a modern dirtbike (with ah-mazing front suspension) and a disk brake. I recently got lucky with a random Husqvarna wr360 front end that literally dropped on my xr200r. Crazy stable forks and a disk brake are a huge boost in sloppy gravel or even on any road.
For a headlight, LED. you want shock absorption, go with LED. no moving parts trumps fragile filament any day. For the rearsuspension, I got nothing, good luck with it man. Hope it turns out sweet. Also, consider a skid plate for that motor if you can fab one up or find something to fit. Folding pedals and shifter are worth far more than they cost also.
On the suspension: this is just me speculating from a barstool in my shop, but something about the katana fork/gsxr doesnt jive. You mentioned keeping the stock hub - which is good because I'm guessing that means you will also retain a larger than sportbike size front wheel. You will definitely want that the first time you see something you wanna get closer too on the other side of a ditch on a gravel road. Put a smaller sportbike wheel (doesnt matter how knobby) on there coupled with forks that will either match or reduce front end travel and its ass over tits as soon as you hit the ditch. a cb750 front end will go on there really easy, and give you more meat in the forks, then you can retain stock wheel size, or use a 21" old school XL/MT/Elsinore wheel too. OR, keep an eye out with scrappers, you can snag a complete front end off a modern dirtbike (with ah-mazing front suspension) and a disk brake. I recently got lucky with a random Husqvarna wr360 front end that literally dropped on my xr200r. Crazy stable forks and a disk brake are a huge boost in sloppy gravel or even on any road.
For a headlight, LED. you want shock absorption, go with LED. no moving parts trumps fragile filament any day. For the rearsuspension, I got nothing, good luck with it man. Hope it turns out sweet. Also, consider a skid plate for that motor if you can fab one up or find something to fit. Folding pedals and shifter are worth far more than they cost also.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
That would be me. You have to remove the rivets to separate the centers and either cut down or find shorter caliper bolts, plus ream the rivet holes to 8mm from 6mm. I wish I would've known about the EX fork swap. It would've made my deal a bit easier. I went with a CB750 front end, which is also pretty much bolt on, but I'll have to custom fab caliper mounts.ridesolo said:
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
I wanted a lower stance and lowered my forks by about 2" Now I think they are too stiff and will be changing to 1". I have to take them back apart to change the fork lower color anyway, so it's an easy change for me.
Mr.E said:
I wanted a lower stance and lowered my forks by about 2" Now I think they are too stiff and will be changing to 1". I have to take them back apart to change the fork lower color anyway, so it's an easy change for me.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
I got some 250 Ninja forks off e-bay. (not one of my smartest purchases : )
Top yoke is ugly as F***
Not an easy swap in my opinion, stem is wrong diameter to be easily changed although (All Balls didn't have a conversion kit when I got them)
It's just too expensive for the parts needed (new top yoke )
I may make them work someday, just not today ;D
I got some 250 Ninja forks off e-bay. (not one of my smartest purchases :
) Top yoke is ugly as F***
Not an easy swap in my opinion, stem is wrong diameter to be easily changed although (All Balls didn't have a conversion kit when I got them)
It's just too expensive for the parts needed (new top yoke
)I may make them work someday, just not today ;D
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
I posted pictures of it, simple as a simple thing can be.
Uses stock Honda (or taper roller) bearings.
Use Katana axle as it's same diameter as Honda.
Needeed to make new spacers to get wheel centered (I could have used the old steel ones but wanted alloy)
You have to file a bit off the lock stops to get a decent (similar to stock) turning radius. I could have gone further but it's for road not trail so didn't bother
41mm forks don't look out of place on 360
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.msg164041#msg164041
Oh, if you click on small picture, link takes you to Photobucket
Scroll back a couple of pictures to see the front end on frame
Mr.E said:
I posted pictures of it, simple as a simple thing can be.
Uses stock Honda (or taper roller) bearings.
Use Katana axle as it's same diameter as Honda.
Needeed to make new spacers to get wheel centered (I could have used the old steel ones but wanted alloy)
You have to file a bit off the lock stops to get a decent (similar to stock) turning radius. I could have gone further but it's for road not trail so didn't bother
41mm forks don't look out of place on 360
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.msg164041#msg164041
Oh, if you click on small picture, link takes you to Photobucket
Scroll back a couple of pictures to see the front end on frame
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
Yeah, the original Kawi top yoke is pretty ugly. I am using forx from an EX500 and it was easy. AllBalls had the exact set needed and wasn't expensive, no need to do anything to the length or diameter of the stem. Admittedly a new, custom top yoke is easier to afford when your brother is your designer/machinist.
crazypj said:I got some 250 Ninja forks off e-bay. (not one of my smartest purchases :
Top yoke is ugly as F***
Not an easy swap in my opinion, stem is wrong diameter to be easily changed although (All Balls didn't have a conversion kit when I got them)
It's just too expensive for the parts needed (new top yoke
I may make them work someday, just not today ;D
Yeah, the original Kawi top yoke is pretty ugly. I am using forx from an EX500 and it was easy. AllBalls had the exact set needed and wasn't expensive, no need to do anything to the length or diameter of the stem. Admittedly a new, custom top yoke is easier to afford when your brother is your designer/machinist.
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
CB750 is an easy swap, too and 35mm. KZ750 is an easy swap into a CB750, which may be an easy swap here by default. Lots of KZ and CB custom options and the stock triples aren't bad either. 36mm on the KZ and the same length as the CB750.
CB750 is an easy swap, too and 35mm. KZ750 is an easy swap into a CB750, which may be an easy swap here by default. Lots of KZ and CB custom options and the stock triples aren't bad either. 36mm on the KZ and the same length as the CB750.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB360 / Enduro / Brat / Quake Racer. Need noob advice.
That actually made me laugh so I thought I should quote it
Accelerator pump carbs will be a real good idea for street riding, as long as delivery can be set (or it gets too rich)deviant said:
ridesolo said:
That actually made me laugh so I thought I should quote it
