Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Sounds like a good idea right? Cheap, simple, more revs out of the stock ignition but..
But if points float is pretty much the limiting factor in the ignition that keep it from over revving, this pretty much de idiot proofs the motor and could lead to trouble?
Id like to hear if anyone has tried this or has experience, and what the results where, and any pros and cons of this mod.
The Kettering system is prone to what is often called "point bounce." Actually a misnomer, point bounce really refers to point float, because it is when engine rpm overcomes the points spring. Since a floating point cuts into the coil's saturation time, the result is reduced system voltage. Point bounce is even worse with aftermarket points. The solution to point bounce is simple and like these machines, vintage. It's called double-springing, and it's easy to do. Just grind the rivets off both a used set and a new one, and bolt up the springs, piggy-backed, using the screws from the old set in place of the rivets. The difference, particularly on bikes that have engine work in them (even if just exhaust, jetting and air filters) will surprise you.
good to know. I've been looking into electronic systems to solve this problem. But I can't see spending over $500 to replace something that essentially works.
id leave single springs. as the points float it acts as a mechanical rev limiter. in street riding you shouldn't be cranking the motor out past 11,000 rpm... and if you are, I hope you do a hell of a lot more work then just double springing the points.
id leave single springs. as the points float it acts as a mechanical rev limiter. in street riding you shouldn't be cranking the motor out past 11,000 rpm... and if you are, I hope you do a hell of a lot more work then just double springing the points.
Cool, he beat me to it
The cam is designed to 'float' the points around 11~11,500 rpm.
Unless your doing some major top end mods, it really isn't necessary
If points 'float' at lower rpm, you need new ones.
(Ignition has probably been left on and spring overheated, 'drawing' the temper)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.