Hello, my friend recently picked up a xs360 and i have been doing some repairs/tune up... i decided to replace the points as the existing points were emiting alot of sparks... my friend found some cheap xs360/xs400 points on ebay.. when i installed them and set the gap (.3-.4mm) they would not close at all.. so after alot of fustration i eventually set the gap to .2mm so the points had a chance to close on time and the bike actually ran.. i still have to use a strobe light but my question is that does the amount of gap matter? the way im understanding it is that the stock gap (.3-.4mm) allows the stock points to close for a specifc duration.. but if these cheap chinese points are slightly different then stock points, will using the smaller gap (.2mm) to replicate the stock points behavior be alright? as long as they close on time the bike should run but when the points are open, does it matter how far they are open?
Points Problems
- Thread starter Woosey
- Start date
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
You are setting them on highest point of cam and not at timing mark?
Turn motor over using bolt at end of crank, (remove lower left engine cover, the timing marks are in there) when points are open at max, set gap.Turn on ignition and then rotate motor.
points will spark slightly when they break, should b at 'F' L or 'F' R for left/right cylinders
PJ
Turn motor over using bolt at end of crank, (remove lower left engine cover, the timing marks are in there) when points are open at max, set gap.Turn on ignition and then rotate motor.
points will spark slightly when they break, should b at 'F' L or 'F' R for left/right cylinders
PJ
I believe i am.. the point's cam has a little mark on it where the highest point of the lobe is.. i even checked the gap at multible cam positions to make sure the mark was the highest point on the lobe and it was.. the gap was set as the mark on the cam was contacting the plastic/bakalite cam follower.. after setting the gap to .3mm, the points would never shut throughout a full rotation of the cam.. the gap would reduce but never fully shut
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
That mark is for assembly, lines up with dot or mark on advancer. (otherwise timing can be 180 degrees off)
In my experience it's rarely the high point.
Is center bolt running true when you spin motor over? (your either doing something wrong or end of cam is bent-unlikely as they generally snap)
Feeler does actually say 0.30mm and not 030 (which is probably inches)
In my experience it's rarely the high point.
Is center bolt running true when you spin motor over? (your either doing something wrong or end of cam is bent-unlikely as they generally snap)
Feeler does actually say 0.30mm and not 030 (which is probably inches)
cameron750
New Member
I've had good luck eyeballing the highest point of the points opening, and then using a matchbook cover as a feeler gauge, and recheck your work with a dwell meter until you've gotten the hang of it - if you are careful in your work, you can get it to be with in one or two degrees of dwell this way.
Thanx to all your guys i figured it out.. the high point on the cam was a few degrees past the assembly mark, so when gapped properly the points open and shut.. what was throwing me off was that i was thinking the points were soposed to shut when it came time to fire when they are actually opening to unground the coil and allowing the plug to fire.. that static timing didnt make any sense because i was being a fool.. after the 5th time reading the process in the book i relised i didnt read it right.. Thanks again for the help.. i feel i have a better understanding for mechnical ignition now
