Polishing a oxidized engine?

edelweiss

edelweiss

Coast to Coast
Can anyone recommend the best way to polish a oxidized CB650 engine? Any special buffing wheels or polish to use?
 
Start with blasting. Pieces that you can take off, bead blast. Stuff that you can't remove, soda blast.

The trouble is that the oxide on the surface of the aluminum is very hard. (Aluminum oxide is what a lot of sandpaper is made out of.) You will save lots and lots of time by doing the blasting. Follow the blasting with wet sanding. 600 grit, 800 grit, 1,200 grit, then go to the buffing wheels starting with emery.
 
Another option that I use to clean really dirty parts of grease, oil, road grime and oxidation
is Pine Sol. It is basically soap with a minute amount of acid. Use rubber groves because it
dry out your skin and cause peeling.
 
dude with the mystery oil is no too smart ::),all he is doing is making a slurry in his process then using it to totally fuk the chrome forever
you may as well just mix dirt and sand with atf and go after your chrome from there and what you get is chrome scratched up beyond fuckhead repairing
as far as alloy polishing with dirt mixed with atf that would be the perfect process for you have at it report results,number 2 potting soil is best
 
xb33bsa said:
dude with the mystery oil is no too smart ::),all he is doing is making a slurry in his process then using it to totally fuk the chrome forever
you may as well just mix dirt and sand with atf and go after your chrome from there and what you get is chrome scratched up beyond fuckhead repairing
as far as alloy polishing with dirt mixed with atf that would be the perfect process for you have at it report results,number 2 potting soil is best
Click to expand...

I don't plan on using it on chrome, but are you saying it will screw the aluminum up too? I know, sounds like a dumb question seeing that aluminum is so soft. Is it like the oxidation that is coming off then acts like an abrasive as he is wiping it around?
 
xb33bsa said:
dude with the mystery oil is no too smart ::),all he is doing is making a slurry in his process then using it to totally fuk the chrome forever
you may as well just mix dirt and sand with atf and go after your chrome from there and what you get is chrome scratched up beyond fuckhead repairing
as far as alloy polishing with dirt mixed with atf that would be the perfect process for you have at it report results,number 2 potting soil is best
Click to expand...

Also, wouldn't bead blasting do the same thing to the aluminum — scratch it to hell? With this stuff it seems that it can buff out the fine scratched after?
 
Maybe I am just a little touchy this moning but DUDE... use the Search button here on DTT!
This has been covered many, many times. There are excellent "How to" threads can be found here on this very topic with just a couple clicks of the mouse. I've written a few posts in them myself. So much info, tips, and alternatives that they can't all be rehashed in this thread.

A.D.'s answer is the just of it, but if you don't have a bead blaster don't let that stop you. The first couple I did I didn't have one. I then built a D.I.Y. blasting cabinet from threads I searched and found here... You can start out with 80-120g sandpaper... work down to 800g or finer... pick up a bench top buffer and compound and have at it.
... Oh and lastly, get a grease zert installed in your elbow. ;)
 

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Hoosier Daddy said:
Maybe I am just a little touchy this moning but DUDE... use the Search button here on DTT!
This has been covered many, many times. There are excellent "How to" threads can be found here on this very topic with just a couple clicks of the mouse. I've written a few posts in them myself. So much info, tips, and alternatives that they can't all be rehashed in this thread.

A.D.'s answer is the just of it, but if you don't have a bead blaster don't let that stop you. The first couple I did I didn't have one. I then built a D.I.Y. blasting cabinet from threads I searched and found here... You can start out with 80-120g sandpaper... work down to 800g or finer... pick up a bench top buffer and compound and have at it.
... Oh and lastly, get a grease zert installed in your elbow. ;)
Click to expand...

Hi Hoos. Sorry for the rethread. After the bead blasting and the buffing, is clear coating the parts essential (necessary)?
 
Mixed opinions on that as you'll see. I say no and use Mothers then car wax every spring.... Some really like a product called Sharks Hide or Sharkshide... something like that.
 
edelweiss said:
I don't plan on using it on chrome, but are you saying it will screw the aluminum up too? I know, sounds like a dumb question seeing that aluminum is so soft. Is it like the oxidation that is coming off then acts like an abrasive as he is wiping it around?
Click to expand...
i was pointing out that the guy was using DIRT to polish his chrome ;D ??? ::) ;D
that is how much of a fucking idiot he is ::)! and you think its a good idea to follow his advise ?
what does it feel like being born yesterday ? ferchrisakes dude, get some common sense, SOMEWHERE
merry christmas
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
... Oh and lastly, get a grease zert installed in your elbow. ;)
Click to expand...

Now THERE is an awesome idea.. my OEM zerk wore out recently and the lubricant leaked out, and now I'm having a horrible time trying to find a replacement.. but I did find an alternate fiche number for the lubricant replacement though, unfortunately, (or fortunately?) it only comes in 40oz containers.. so many to chose from, any recommendations? Would you typically just use it straight out of the bottle or would adding some additives make it easier to use?

Cheers
 
Yes you are... "elbow grease" is a term for hard work... That was the reference to the "grease zert in your elbow" comment I made. If it doesn't make sense now it will once you are done with all the sanding. ;D
 
From the Pine Sol website:

"Where should I NOT use Pine-Sol® Cleaners?
We do not recommend using Pine-Sol® Original Pine® Multi-Surface Cleaner on aluminum, copper or marble surfaces. We also do not recommend using Pine-Sol® Cleaners on cars, on dishes, or as a pet shampoo."

Bead blasting does not "scratch" the aluminum. It leaves a peened, satin finish. You can go right from bead blasting to emery on a buffing wheel, but wet sanding, starting at 600 grit will give you a better finish. After you bead blast it, there will probably be scratches or other surface flaws that you will want to sand out.

Here is a before and after. I started with bead blasting. That removed oxidation and what remained of the original clear lacquer. Then I sanded it to remove the ridge where the badge was recessed, and to take out the gouges. Then I polished it with buffing wheels.

StatorCover1.jpg


StatorCover2.jpg
 
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