Those carbs are definitely better than the stock CV crap. You should be fine with pods. Especially with that kerker on the back.
To be honest though, $800 for an 80 custom seems about $200-$400 lower than I would expect for a bike that doesn't need any major work. At least in my neck of the woods.
Do yourself a favor, learn from my mistake and check out the electrical. Hondas from 79-83 had a serious weak point in their electrical systems. At minimum, check out the charging system. First and foremost, turn the ignition and headlight on for about one minute to reduce the surface charge on the battery plates. Even a dead battery can deliver a brief high current and start the bike with a good surface charge. If you have access to a multimeter, set it to DC voltage and check the voltage on the battery with the engine off and the ignition switched off. It should be about 12.5V or higher. Anything lower than 12V is considered "empty." There are a lot of reasons that the battery could be dead. Check the age and appearance of the battery. If it's relatively new, then it's less likely to be an issue with the battery itself. It could just be bad wiring. That's cheap to fix, but a pain in the ass to diagnose. Or you could be looking at an alternator component (rotor ~$150, stator ~$150) or a regulator/rectifier (~$125). If I were looking at a bike that had a newer looking dead battery in it, I would either walk away or make the guy take at least $250 off the price in anticipation of the work and parts I'd have to put into it.
If the battery is okay, start the bike and check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine at about 2500-3000rpm. If it's higher than 13.5V, rev the engine up to 5000rpm and see if the voltage spikes above 14.8V. If it manages to stay between 13.5 and 14.8, then your charging system (and probably your alternator and reg/rec) is fine. At this point, I'd consider it worth my time.
