Problem

[lonelywolf8588]

Don't know if this is the correct place to post. I was adjusting and fine tuning everything after my first cafe shake down. The clutch cable suddenly gave me a ton of slack. The bracket/mount on top of the clutch case broke. Anyone know how to fix this so it works without a welder? Don't have one, have no access to one.

 

[GK]

Have you still got the piece that came away? you could probably get away with JB weld, it is apparently the ducks guts
over there , disconnect your cable and glue the piece in using the JB, give it a good amount of time to set and then reconnect your cable and see how it goes.

i have an idead for fixing it if you havent got the piece but im assuming you have and that idea involves engine removal.

 

[zixxerboy]

If you try GKs advice scuff up a large area around it and use a generous fillet - the bond needs to resist the clutch pull.

 

[Tim]

There may be other options - what bike is this? Lets see a wider angle shot so we see how the cable connects etc.

That being said, any aluminum welder worth their salt should be able to put that back together for you quickly. Is the mount part of the engine case itself or the side engine cover? If the side cover, you could also just find a replacement, or take it off and take it into a welder.

 

[monteboy84]

There's a trick I use for breaks like that, using JB Weld paired with roll pins, but you may need to pull the motor out of the chassis to make room for a drill.

Fit the pieces together snugly, make sure the crack is closed up, to the point where it nearly disappears. With it held in place, drill a small hole in the broken ear, drilling into the ear's base, then go to the other side of the cable hole, and drill another small hole like the one you did first. These holes should be fit for small roll pins, 1/16" or 3/32" work fine.

After you're done drilling, clean up the crack surfaces on both parts, and start the roll pins in the holes you drilled, tapping them in so they're almost to the cracked face. Put a thin coat of epoxy on both bonding surfaces, and put the piece in place. Drive in the roll pins until they stop, clean up excess epoxy from the part, then leave it alone for curing. After it's cured, trim down the roll pins flush, and grind off any extra epoxy that remains.

This sounds kind of half-assed, but it works very well. I used this method with JB Kwik (race day repair) to repair a broken mounting ear on a Holley carburetor for my race truck, I've got 3 seasons racing on the repair, without a problem. The roll pins help support the part until the epoxy has cured, and add strength to the joint after curing.

-matt