Project: Can't Get Right.

[bjonesin]

Hello to the Forum! In early February I purchased a 1977 CB750. I've never had a motorcycle, nor really any idea of what I was getting into. I have limited tools and even less knowledge. I do have a lot of ambition, so I do have that going for me. It runs but there are a few issues and modifications I would like to make.

If you hate cafe racers, you might stop reading now and I'm okay with that. I'm not sure I have the technical skills to pull off the empty triangle but I do subscribe to the philosophy that if it works then it looks good. With that in mind lets talk about what I am thinking about doing.

It has an oil leak. I am literally banging my head against a wall looking for the start of this leak. I've tightened every bolt and screw and I have cleaned the bottom of the engine. So, I've decided to replace the seals on the engine. Also a lot of the bolts are stripped so they are being replaced with hex head.

I'm a little short for the stock ride height, so I was thinking shorter shocks.

I would like to go with a cafe style seat, but my girlfriend demands that she rides on the back at times. So, I was thinking a brat style seat. My question is that if I run shorter shocks and a brat style seat will I run out of travel and the wheel will hit the rear fender.

So the front of the motorcycle is actually out of the planning stages already. I know, you missed your chance for input. I went to a salvage yard and pulled the entire front end off of a 1977 gl1000. Dual brakes upgrade! So at some point I've gotta get the tapered steering bearings. New grips and handle bars.

I sort of want to take everything down to the frame. strip the old paint off the frame, and then repaint. Replace the seals while the engine is out of the frame. Repaint the tank, side covers.

Too ambitious? Thoughts on the shocks? I've been thinking about rear sets, thoughts on a brand? Type of handlebars? superbike? brand?

aaand pictures!

 

[Big R]

Change the seat before messing with the shocks. And don't go too low with the bars, unless you are putting rearsets on.

 

[kowalski]

This is a "cafe racer" forum. Most people here love 'em. As for the leak just clean the engine off pretty well and run it. It will make it really to pin point the leak on a engine covered in grease dirt and oil. With these old 750's chances are it's either the base gasket or head gasket. If it is either on e of those the engine will have to come out of the frame.
If you would really to be able to 2 up every now and then, I would go with more of a brat style than a racer. Just use some lower bars like superrbike bars over clip-ons or "z" bars. People just look plain goofy riding riding bikes with low bar like clip-ons and z bars.
If I could do it all over again, I'd sure go for a brat style bike. I can get down low enough to almost touch my chin to the tank on the highway, but to carry anything I have to wear a bike pack and 2 up isn't even possible.

 

[bjonesin]

Wow. Thanks guys. everyone seems to be saying the same thing.

Time to fill you in on what I've been screwing up. I figured that I could handle taking apart the front end of the gl1000 and cleaning it a bit. Turns out that I bought a broken part. The speedometer hub is broken and the screw is stripped.
Any easy fixes for this?


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[surffly]

Check and or replace the seals where the oil lines attach to the motor. Common place for a leak. One is an O ring and the other is a small gasket.

Dont lower the bike. trick set up is actually one inch UP in the back, or the stock DOHC length
lowering the rear has a negative effect on the handling. If you really are to small for the bike then it is what it is and you should more think about finding a bike that fits you better rather then decrease performance on the bike you have

The open triangle look is all well and good but remember that an oil tank needs to be fabbed up

Superbike bars are perfect for the stock pegs. Any lower and you need to install rearsets, but not many bolt on options for the latter SOHC Cb750s also it limits the ability to carry a passenger.

Dont look for work just to do work. If you are new just get a manual and keep the bike running for a while until you learn what you really want and what will fit you well.

 

[bjonesin]

I think I am going to go with Norman Hyde "M" bars. I've heard that they are better ergnomically than clipon's or superbike bars.

Do you want to teach me how to polish? Clicked through your project, and your skills are amazing. I have never seen carbs cleaned up like that.

I'm not looking for work, I just feel like my bike has been neglected. Things work, but they work questionably at best.

 

[bjonesin]

Here's a picture of the stripped screw in the speedometer hub. I think its a steel (??) screw in aluminum. I'm hoping I can pull the broken pieces out and swap in the cb750 cable.

 

[Sonreir]

That screw should come out with an impact driver.

 

[surffly]

Most important tool to own is a good quality impact driver

Polishing is just time....tones of time. Lots of sanding and prep. Worth the effort as it really makes a bike pop
The Carbs that I do are soda blasted to clean them up. Again lots of time more then anything else

 

[bjonesin]

So the bleeder nipple on the Gl1000 brake caliper is snapped off. I bough it this way, so far none of these problems I have created so that makes me feel good. Same procedure on this as the stripped screw? I went out and bought an impact driver at harbor freight last night. Looking forward to using it tonight.

 

[surffly]

Get a GOOD quality "EzOut" and get alittle heat on the caliper

 

[axeugene27]

i'd do a slash cut with a dremel and warm, apply pb blaster. take a good flathead bit on an impact driver should come out.

 

[bjonesin]

Extractor broke. Any ideas or am I fucked?

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[surffly]

You're fucked

 

[bjonesin]

So I wish I had more cool stuff to show you guys and talk about the things that I am doing, but it's all pretty boring. Polishing front forks for painting is neither glamorous or exciting. Any idea on sanded I need to go in order to get good paint adhesion, and a paint brand?

 

[Big R]

600 grit is a good place to stop. Any smoother and the paint may not stick.

What color are you looking at?

 

[bjonesin]

Either black or red. Combination of the two most likely. Obligatory inspirational photos incoming

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[bjonesin]

Does internet shopping count as working on the bike? I sure hope it does. In my case i spend time reading the forum, actually picking the exact part I want, and then price comparing. It's time consuming but hopefully keep my budget in check.

I went ahead and bought a used caliper off ebay. The seller has a seven day hold on all paypal orders. Purgatory is stupid slow. Hopefully that will show up sometime next week.

A part that did show up is all the way from the uk!

I made the mistake of telling my boss at work. The next thing I know i need to have put then so I can show him.Before

Dont tell my girlfriend

So sad looking

Finished !

This project wasn't slated for when it happened. I know i will have to undo this work when i swap front ends but man are new handlebars great. I don't feel like I'm 80 driving a goldwing anymore. So my bars hit my tank of course. Build new steering stops or can i adjust the bars so they dont hit?
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[Big R]

If black, go with appliance epoxy. It's cheap, lays well with proper prep, tough as nails, and doesn't require primer / clear coat. If red, it's the opposite of everything I just mentioned.........

As far as the bars go, there are a couple solutions. Dent the tank in on purpose, try to adjust the bars / controls enough that they clear, get custom risers made, etc. But I would wait until the front end swap is complete.

 

[bjonesin]

Is it possible to lay paint over the epoxy paint? Would the epoxy be good for things like the tank and side covers?

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