Race style shifting

[CBPayne]

I was just wondering if anybody out there had to use race style shifting because they had to mount the rearsets upside down because there frame or what ever other reason was preventing them from using a standard shift pattern?

 

[Flugtechnik]

Yes, I did on the previous incarnation of my bike. Well, it was mainly out of shear laziness. The shift arm on the rearsets I bought (off a wrecked R1) was bent, so instead of getting a new one and setting up the linkages, I just flipped my shift arm 180° and shifted upside down.

I guess eventually, I would have done it proper, but I wrecked the bike about 8 months after "finishing" it. Now it is back to stock pegs and controls.

Shifting wasn't too bad. I did screw it up on occasion.

 

[CBPayne]

The stock shift up twist forward but with the rearset I have to put the lever under the frame because the frame bulges out. So if I wanted to shift in a standard way I believe a linkage arm that bends out away from the bike then back in and down would be needed. Also it would have to reach around 15".

 

[J-Rod10]

You'd be better off running GP shifting than running a linkage rod with a bend in it. They are weaker.

I prefer the GP shift. It is more efficient in terms of movement.

 

[CBPayne]

I'm trying to use the stock shift arm but it has a ball joint with a m4 or m6 threads and the generic linkage kit rod is a 5/16 fine thread. So I'm trying to figure out how to connect them. I think if I drill out the harden rivet the hole would be to big. For a temp I'm going to make my own standard to metric coupler.

 

[Titan performance]

Would it not be possible to make a new rod?
We use 10mm aluminium rod, drill and tap an M6 thread into it, and attach with rose joints.
The rod can be bent if needs be, though aluminium is likely to break if you get it wrong and try to re-bend it.

 

[CBPayne]

Those look sweet! So thats a solid peace of aluminum rod, not a tube? Can't get that locally, definitely couldn't get that swivel head eyebolt. Where can I get such a rod? For curiosity sake how much does that rearset package cost?

 

[Titan performance]

Where are you CB? The joints are known as "rose joints" here in the UK, but I believe they are called "heim joints" in the USA. I have seen them on ebay.
The shift bar is a solid aluminium rod approximately 10mm diameter. We drill into the ends, and tap an M6 thread for the joints. The rod is readily available over here, even from home DIY stores, or also on ebay. It can be shaped, carefully, and of course, is easy to polish.

We only make the rearsets kits for the Suzuki 500 and GT750 at the moment, and the cost is £239 GBP. I think we are the only people on the planet specifically making rearsets for these bikes.

If you check Tim's thread at the top of this section, you will see an assortment of the items you could use, including the rose joints.

 

[CBPayne]

I found some of those rose joints. I found a few placed where I can get some 7075 aircraft aluminum rod. It says it can't be welded or machined??? Or I can get 6061 rod for cheaper. I was looking at your brake side, the cylinder that fits on the brake cog/spline. How does that work with its smooth inside, is there a set screw that holds in place. I'm going to try to build something like since I got a new tig welder. I need to know what grade aluminum that is used. Thanks folks

 

[xb33bsa]

use 6061 T6 it machines and welds and is plenty strong is able to be bent or formed as long as you bend around a large enough radius
7075 is not weldable

 

[Titan performance]

The smooth cylinder with the arm on top, is made from stainless steel, and that simply slides on to the frame lug where the stock brake pedal used to go. The hole at the top with a nut and bolt through it, attaches to the brake cable.
Zoom in on this picture, and it will be clearer to you.

 

[CBPayne]

So the cylinder is just there for support? Do you think my idea will work? Other cheapskate idea is to cut the stock brake lever and use it to attach the rearset to the break splines.

 

[SONICJK]

So the cylinder is just there for support? Do you think my idea will work? Other cheapskate idea is to cut the stock brake lever and use it to attach the rearset to the break splines.

This is your best bet.

 

[Titan performance]

The cylindrical section is a pivot, and performs the same function as the stock pedal did in pulling the cable. Some people will use the back end of the stock pedal, and just cut off the rest. But as we have the facilities, we chose to manufacture a component, as stock pedals can be hard to find, expensive, and cosmetically not as pleasing on the eye.
Sorry, but from the thread content to date, I'm unable to figure out your issue. There are no splines on the Suzuki mechanism.......what bike are you working with? Can you post up some decent pictures, and maybe we could come up with a method for you.

 

[yorkie350]

Don't know if will help but might give ya some idea's i put this together for my Honda cb350f i aint no fabricator but they work and are stronger than they look i moved the rear set and welded a plate to frame used the original spline and rod for rear brake but works with original style function brake / gear change

 

[yorkie350]

hope they give ya some idea's

 

[CBPayne]

Here is some pics first I'll show you the shifting side so you can get an idea where the rearset will sit on the brake side. There are some exhaust in the way right now. I will also be welding a mounting plate on both sides under the frame.

 

[CBPayne]

Brakes, hope these are good enough pics.

 

[CBPayne]

Rearset brake

 

[CBPayne]

I'm working on a 86 Yamaha xv700