RD350 project
- Thread starter dugsgms
- Start date
Thanks guys!
After all the cosmetic stuff was done it was time to move on the the fun stuff, MORE Power!! Started with a set of Spec2 expansion chambers, these seemed to be the hot set-up for the guys that actually race these bikes. Took awhile to get but worth the wait, the bike always had a bit of a powerband but now it comes ALIVE once it gets on pipe. If you give a wrist full in 1st or 2nd you better be ready for it, the front end WILL come up when it gets on pipe. Also added a crossover pipe to even it out and add a bit of torque down low and switched the reed petals out for a set of TDR then YZ125 reeds. While the TRD reeds gave it one hell of a hit up top the YZ reeds were much better suited to a street bike(much thinner material). Had to go from the stock 145 jets all the way up to 230s to get it to fuel right. Swapped out the K+N/y-boot set up for a pair of UNI as the y-boot set-up was like a sound funnel and the intake noise was just obnoxious for the rider. Also replaced the OEM coils with aftermarket ones from Spec2 in order to open the gap up a bit and stave off any fouling issues.
This is pretty much as the bike sits now, I've had a few bikes in my time (some well over 100 hp)but have never owned a street bike as fun as this. With a sub 300 lb weight, tight chassis and sharp handling it really is like riding a 40hp mountain bike. The sound and smell is absolutely awesome and its the only cafe racer I personally have ever ridden that actually performs better than it looks.
After all the cosmetic stuff was done it was time to move on the the fun stuff, MORE Power!! Started with a set of Spec2 expansion chambers, these seemed to be the hot set-up for the guys that actually race these bikes. Took awhile to get but worth the wait, the bike always had a bit of a powerband but now it comes ALIVE once it gets on pipe. If you give a wrist full in 1st or 2nd you better be ready for it, the front end WILL come up when it gets on pipe. Also added a crossover pipe to even it out and add a bit of torque down low and switched the reed petals out for a set of TDR then YZ125 reeds. While the TRD reeds gave it one hell of a hit up top the YZ reeds were much better suited to a street bike(much thinner material). Had to go from the stock 145 jets all the way up to 230s to get it to fuel right. Swapped out the K+N/y-boot set up for a pair of UNI as the y-boot set-up was like a sound funnel and the intake noise was just obnoxious for the rider. Also replaced the OEM coils with aftermarket ones from Spec2 in order to open the gap up a bit and stave off any fouling issues.
This is pretty much as the bike sits now, I've had a few bikes in my time (some well over 100 hp)but have never owned a street bike as fun as this. With a sub 300 lb weight, tight chassis and sharp handling it really is like riding a 40hp mountain bike. The sound and smell is absolutely awesome and its the only cafe racer I personally have ever ridden that actually performs better than it looks.
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Great bike.
The bees knees man!Welcome to the 2 stroke party 8)
I know what you mean, you can actually see them flexing while riding. Been looking at fork braces but can't really find anything I like, may have to make something.
Rebuilt the steering damper, tried to just refill it at first but leaked pretty bad. Really simple but kinda cool idea, just a wiper arm with a small orifice is a oil filled housing. Hardly as advanced or as good as modern Scott one but hey, its better than nothing!
Took it apart, cleaned it and replaced the o-ring. Refilled with 80w-90 gear oil. No more leaks and at least somewhat effective.
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Had to do something about the brakes. In spite of having a slightly sticking inboard piston they actually worked pretty good(much better than my 1970 BSA) but had a dead feel and didn't have that initial bike that modern bikes have. Did a bit of searching and found that short of doing a rotor/caliper swap, a smaller bore master, drilling the rotors and EBC pads help quite a bit.
Found a rotor marking template I liked at a XS650 forum, had to scale it down a bit as the RD rotors are smaller. Center punched and dimpled the rotors and drilled through to 1/4". You haven't lived until you've drilled 90 holes in 8MMs of stainless steel! Took 3 bits, cutting fluid and about 6 recharges of drill batteries and actually got a blister on my hand from the heat the cordless drill was pouring out.
Found a rotor marking template I liked at a XS650 forum, had to scale it down a bit as the RD rotors are smaller. Center punched and dimpled the rotors and drilled through to 1/4". You haven't lived until you've drilled 90 holes in 8MMs of stainless steel! Took 3 bits, cutting fluid and about 6 recharges of drill batteries and actually got a blister on my hand from the heat the cordless drill was pouring out.
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Got a rebuild kit and and new decal and rebuilt the caliper. Getting the pistons out was bit of a challenge. Looking back I would have removed the pads and used the master cylinder to push the pistons out as using compressed air wouldn't budge em. Luckily the treads on my grease gun(probably 1/8"NPT) threaded nicely into the caliper and I was able to use it to push them out. Pistons were in good shape but the bores had a bit of corrosion so used a wheel cylinder hone to clean them up. Hardest part was removing the factory decal, was able to wedge a awl under it and then peeled it off.
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Got a cheapie 13mm master cylinder and braided stainless hose. Using the new hose made the factory brake switch inoperative(had a goofy set-up that used 2 hoses and a cast iron junction block) so had to get a master cylinder with a built in switch. Swapped out the lever it came with for one off a 2013 xt250 to match the one on the clutch lever and installed a set of EBC pads.
All in all it made a decent amount of chnage for the better. Certainly not modern bike good but a bit better stopping power, more initial bite and much better modulation during light/moderate braking.
All in all it made a decent amount of chnage for the better. Certainly not modern bike good but a bit better stopping power, more initial bite and much better modulation during light/moderate braking.
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VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
Honestly man, get a stock fender and paint it black. Barely noticeable and you can replace it w a proper brace down the road.
Don't mean to keep beating this drum, but I've been damn near tossed into oncoming traffic due to a similar no fender/brace deal. Just don't ant to see that beautiful bike get wrecked, or more importantly you.
Don't mean to keep beating this drum, but I've been damn near tossed into oncoming traffic due to a similar no fender/brace deal. Just don't ant to see that beautiful bike get wrecked, or more importantly you.
Get this stabilizer. Night and day difference. Bolts right up to the RD.
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-adjustable-hydraulic-steering-damper.html
I also bought a repop master cylinder from Mike XS and used a direct SS brake line with the stock caliper. It works great.
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-adjustable-hydraulic-steering-damper.html
I also bought a repop master cylinder from Mike XS and used a direct SS brake line with the stock caliper. It works great.
Thanks for the advice on the stabilizer, I'll look into it. Regarding the master cylinder, I looked into a OE style one but wanted to stay away from the stock 5/8" bore. Found a few aftermarket styles in 13mm but since I needed something with a brake light switch the MikeXS one fit the bill pretty nicely. I even considered a modern radial set-up but decided that was putting form before function and thats not how I roll 8).
Thanks, Doug
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
What a beautiful job you have done, the seat, paint and stripes, looks fantastic!
Any knew developments, fork brace, etc.?
Any knew developments, fork brace, etc.?
Yes, as far as the fork brace goes...I didnt notice any difference. I'm sure a brace with more structure(billet etc.) would make a difference but back to back just using the brace from the factory fender made no difference to my perception.
I was busy this weekend, got a new set of rims. Bought a set of 18x2.15 and 18x2.5 (stock was 18x1.60 and 18x1.85)Excel shouldered rims and stainless spokes from Buchanan's. Laced them up using my HF truing stand. The spoke kit was excellent, swaged spokes and stainless nipples and the rims were super true. The front spokes needed no trimming, the rear very little and was able to get within .005" run-out radially and axially.
