Re: My 1974 CB360 project
OK as far as checking the compression on an engine that is not PHYSICALLY mounted in something that will let you kick the shit out of the kick start I wouldn't even try to do the test. Put the sucker back in the frame if you can, and then try to do the test. Shoot for about 150-160 cold, the sides should be within 10 psi of each other as mentioned. If you get that then I would call it gravy for now. If not then put about a cap full of oil in the plug holes and give it a min to settle in. Then do the test again If the pressure jumps up then your rings are prolly shot. If it crawls up or doesn't change your valves may be leaking. You can hear the valves leak when the compression cycle hits.
IF you think the valves are leaking then do this, go to the store, buy some acetone, pull the head and set the head on its side and pour the stuff into the ports and look at your valves. You should not see any wetness on the combustion side of the valves. Do the other side. If you see stuff leaking out then your valves are not sealing and you need to figure out why. I had this issue with my bike and both the exhaust valves some how got bent. The intake valve seats were pretty screwed up too. I had spares so I pulled the valves out and lapped them all and presto, good seal NO LEAKS.
If your head is good then the next issue is the rings or the cylinders. Get your manual and some measuring devices, feeler gauge and caliper, and get to checking the ring gaps, piston and cylinder wear and such. The manual will tell you what things should look like although I can say that if you can still see the markings on the tops of the rings you may be close to tolerance on the ring grooves in the pistons, if they are shiny they are prolly shot. I would have ordered the rings after I measured things, I also like ordering the next size up so I can hand file fit each ring to each cylinder. After deglazing that is.
The cam should have a shim on the right side, again this is something that the manual will tell you as far as how out it can be without it. You may look around in the engine it might have fallen in if you have the head off.
There is really nothing wrong with the old tensioners other than you have to be DILIGENT about keeping the effing cam chain TIGHT. Too mcuh slack will cause the chain to slap the top tensioner mount and tear shit up. It will also chew up the case as well. KEEP an EYE on eBay, they come by all the time. The big thing I see with the rocker deal was stronger bolts to hold the head down. The shafts are pretty much the same size.
Decking the head is something a machinist will have to go through with you. There are ways to measure but that is another story. Find a good reputable guy, tell them what you want and you may have to bring most of the engine to them for measuring, they should tell you what they need.
Worst part about taking the engine apart is finding shit you don't want to see. MY PO ran the dog piss outa this machine, with a clogged oil filter screen and possibly gas in the oil, for a LONG time. I found all sorta worn out crap and spent a lot of time measuring things and digging through eBay looking for deals. I ended up having to do the entire top end and the crank shaft because you can't take the bitch apart and change con rods.