rear sets from dcc

[greasemonkey75]

I thank you all for trying to keep us safe here. I am playing with another idea. Let me know what you think.

 

[crazypj]

Drop link down a bit, keep operating arms parallel if you can.
Brake lever may be too low at that angle?

 

[Tim]

The last idea is usually among the best. It uses the stock brake linkage to the drum, which also allows you to use the stock brake light switch. It's how I run my XS650.

 

[greasemonkey75]

I am always up for constructive criticism. I will keep working it until its right. It's time to get serious. Weather is breaking here in ny and my new wiring harness was just finished by Dan from Cws wiring . Now I will have to do something about those rusty wheels. Well guess I should get it running again first.

 

[teazer]

Headed in the right direction now. Much better.

 

[SoyBoySigh]

It would be neat to take the shortened pedal, and drill a hole through it a good distace from where you've cut it off, and run a bolt and sleeve through it, and then cut a slot where the linkage could just work through, it when it moves, and then the tie rod end there wouldn't be obvious. You could put a little plug end at the cut end of the pedal. Other options, would be an alloy pedal, might get a deal on a broken one, like something off a VFR or CB1100F euro-spec model, etc. You could then cut it down and polish and shape it nicely without the hollow in the middle of it. Just a suggestion. Motocicli Veloci Milano has a Bimota replica pivot that's not exactly cheap. You might wanna take a look, it would give you an idea what you could work out of an alloy pedal. Me, I was thinking the same thing as you, with the chromed steel pedal too. I actually telescoped a new end, from a C70, into the cut down DOHC CB750F pedal. Gotta braze it up. You could do something similar too, you could cut threads into the end of the cut down chrome pedal, big fat thread, and then bolt in a nice clevis end or better still a ball end. Dunno where you'd find a small ball end on a large bolt, but it's still a thought. Maybe a bolt stuck in there, then drill it and tap threads in IT. Better than messing with braze and stuff. Best if it's stainless too. I also agree, you'll want them to be parallel, or at least the same length.

What I'D like best, would be a rear-set that's got a round shaft rather than a plate with a triangular hole cut in it. Just a pedal with a threaded hole, a thread ended rod, and a toe end with a threaded hole in that too. Maybe a set screw to keep them from bending around that axis. It needn't be any kind of fancy material, a screw-driver could be a good source for a hardened rod, it's just that it would be hard to cold work the thread cutting. Better to go with alloy, or unhardened steel that you could heat and quench if you like. That would give the stiffest rod for the diameter.

-S.

 

[SoyBoySigh]

I've also seen cool cafe foot-pegs where they're made from screw-driver handles, or stacked roller-skate wheels, preferably soft ones but well worn out. Skate bearings might make a good pivot for the arm and link arm.

 

[greasemonkey75]

Here is where I ended up.

 

[Tim]

When the mood strikes, lengthen the linkage rod. The brake arm and rearset arm should be parallel. But that's the best setup you can run IMHO.

 

[ImagoX]

Has anyone used these rearsets on a CB500 (1971 or comparable)? I love the look (and cost) of the LGC/DCC rearsets, even better than the Terrazos, but was liking that the Terazzos have the pegs AND the linkages. I haven't found a pre-built linkage kit anywhere - does anyone know of a set that works with that bike and that rearset kit?

Assembling them ad-hoc out of bitz-n-bobz just seems like a recipe for either looooooong delays/frustration or something that won't actually, you know, WORK PROPERLY when I really need it to. I have zero fabrication facilities beyond basic hand-tools (power drill, hack saw, etc.)

I was pondering these, but wasn't sure if they'd fit or even could be MADE to fit the CeeBee: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-chassis-tranmission-parts-universal-diy-rearset-rear-set-linkage-system-dcc-rslinkage.html

Thanks for all these pics - the pegs look GREAT!

 

[manualofman]

although i havent pulled the trigger on the LGC rearsets from DCC, from what I understand, the rearsets and that linkage rod kit should be okay for most makes. I'm planning on putting them on my 450 build.

im sure someone around here has slapped them on a 500 and can vouch for those rods.

 

[mnraider]

Those look good. Glad to hear they are as nice when you get them home.