Rearsets Hitting Exhaust....Please Help

Harsh

Been Around the Block
Looking for some help. I have a set of rearsets that I would really like to use, but they hit the exhaust. As they sit in the picture the pegs are resting on the exhaust which allows for no downward movement of the lever, much less getting you foot underneath the shift lever. Additionally, as they sit the levers are pointed too far up and need to be pointed down a fair amount to be even remotely comfortable or useable. I took some quick measurements last night and in order to space them out to clear the exhaust I am looking at 2". That seems a bit excessive and would probably look silly. Then there is the issue with the pegs sitting right on top of the exhaust. That would get extremely hot, would certainly not be comfortable for long, and more than likely melt the sole off of my boots.

I found this pic and it looks like they have made a bracket to move the pegs up allowing for proper movement of the levers. All I have been able to figure out is that the bike was made by LBC Moto which is think is in Buenos Aries.

I am hoping someone makes a bracket similar to the one on that bike that I could purchase. I am open to suggestions and appreciate any help you all can provide.


On to the photos. My bike:






The bike with riser bracket:
CIMG2735.jpg


Link to more pics of the bike:
http://silodrome.com/cb350-cafe-racer/
 
The second bike has a different exhaust that is running lower, looks like the MAC headers http://www.shop.macperformance.com/CB-350-TWIN_c136.htm
 
Yah I noticed that, but it still has a riser plate which is what I am interested in. The reasets I have state they are a bolt on and require no modification to the bike. However, the lever would hit the stock exhaust. I am still using the stock headers.
 
Harsh said:
Yah I noticed that, but it still has a riser plate which is what I am interested in. The reasets I have state they are a bolt on and require no modification to the bike. However, the lever would hit the stock exhaust. I am still using the stock headers.

I'll give my 2 cents, but you probably won't like it. Order of importance, riding position, then exhaust routing. If you plan on putting miles on the bike, the position should come first. If where the rearsets already are is comfortable, I would look into different exhaust. I had that issue here, and I got creative. Doesn't hit my leg, and I have the rearset placement I wanted.
 

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Actually I do like it. The only issue I could see is the heel of my boots touching the exhaust. Figuring out and routing a new piece of pipe might take some work to get around the brake and shift linkage rods, but could probably be doable. I could also more than likely get the pipe bent locally. How did you support the exhaust?
 
Harsh said:
Actually I do like it. The only issue I could see is the heel of my boots touching the exhaust. Figuring out and routing a new piece of pipe might take some work to get around the brake and shift linkage rods, but could probably be doable. I could also more than likely get the pipe bent locally. How did you support the exhaust?

I think i googled mandrel bends and i bought a ton of different pieces with the correct wall thickness and od. I can find the site if you want. I welded a bracket onto the resonator, then used a piece of steel going from the rearset bolt going to it. Very sturdy. Its very tighy but nothing hits. All i did was play with pieces til i got a good angle, then tacked it.
 
I would be tempted top cut off the stock side plates just behind the two mounting bolts and fabricate a simple plate to allow the pegs to be fitted 1-2" higher. They would be triangular in shape.

An alternative would be to cut the stock plates and insert a smaller triangular wedge to rotate the peg upwards but that would require welding and re-powder coating them. That would still look like a stock part though.
 
Picked up some flexible pipe on the way home to help with mockup purposes. Routing the exhaust over the top of the pegs won't work. In order to clear the shift and brake linkages the exhaust would be sitting right on my ankle.

Someone postep this pic on another forum. I am talking with the guy right now about having a set made.


 
If you can draw up a cad file shoot me a PM I can cut them for you from steel if you want.
 
Unfortunately, I don't have access to a cad program or know how to use one. I started to make some risers out of construction paper last night to later transfer to some sheet aluminum so I could play around with positioning.
 
I like that, but it's a touch high unless the seat is tall and/or rider has short legs.

I would aim to get the peg roughly in line with the swingarm
 
The peg as it is in my first two pics is basically inline with the swingarm and that puts it just barely above the exhaust. While I am taller the bike is being built for my daughter who is 6 or 7 inches shorter than I am. I am sure I can suck it up for whatever riding I will do on the bike. It isn't too much different than my track bike.
 
Moving the exhausts seems like more work than moving the rearsets to me.....and I make both....!
The riser plate is the easy option, as you may even be able to drill and bolt it on to what you have without the need to weld and mess your fresh paint. As an earlier poster said, the best option would be to cut away the existing mount and weld on your own plate to the frame tube, but how much work do you want to do? Design your riser plate, and get your nearest waterjet or laser cut firm to cut it from your template. If your linkage rods become too short with the new peg position, buy some 10mm aluminium rod, drill and tap M6 threads into the ends.......job done.
You can see the riser plate on my 500 pictured below.

The cutter guys can produce your design from a drawing, or a piece of card or paper cut to size and shape.....no need for any computer programmes.
 

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You might try to fit the pegs straight into the top rear bolt of that stock mounting plate and see if that works. A simple way to mock it up would be to use a long bolt and fit the seat, bars and tank and have your daughter try it. Until those other parts are fitted, it's all a bit of a guess as to how the ergonomics will work out.
 
Are you referring to the bolt I circled? If so that bolt has a welded nut on the backside and is smaller than the screw that holds the foot peg to the rearset. Not that the nut couldn't be cut off and the hole drilled out, but that would require some sort of fixing to the powder coat.




I greatly appreciate all of the suggestions and help. I have a plan in place. I was talking with a guy that makes a riser plate and he told me what he used as a reference. The stock exhaust uses a triangle piece to support it from the passenger peg bracket. The passenger peg bracket is what I am using to mount the rearsets. I dug my triangle pieces out of the extra parts pile, bolted them on, then bolted the rearsets to them. Well what do you know...they work. They are pretty thin so they flex too much. I have a buddy that works in the R&D machine shop at Chrysler that is going to make me a set of riser plates.

Pics with the triangle piece bolted on. For the last pic once you add the thickness of the plates it will kick the peg out far enough to easily get your toes underneath it with having to worry about touching the exhaust. I have the levers adjusted for me and my size 12's so my daughter won't have to worry at all.






 
Just a quick update. I have a buddy that works in the R&D shop at Chrysler. He fabbed up a sweet set of riser plates for me.



The flash caused some weird haze.



 
I won't tell my buddy you called him an engineer...those be fightin' words to him :-X Hell, he would probably punch me for even repeating it ;)
 
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