Regulator upgrade....

The Jed

The Jed

Been Around the Block
Okay, I spent too much money and got myself a lithium ion battery, thing is badass! but I need to upgrade from the old regulator to make sure I don't fry it. The bike is an 82 Suzuki gs1100gk. The new regulator is from a K6 gsxr1000.

The original regulator has red, yellow, white/blue, white/red, and black/white. The red is positive, and the black/white i the ground. The new regulator has 2 green wires, 2 reds, and 3 yellows. From what I understand the greens are separate grounds, to hit different grounding points ans according to the wiring diagram the two reds are connected and are positive(no idea why 2 are needed if they connect anyway).

So the question is, since there is no differentiation between the three yellows does it matter what they get connected to in regards to the white/blue, white/red, and yellow on the harness?

I honestly have no clue how the regulator works, so idk if these three spots are interchangeable in regards to where they connect to the stator.
 
The 3 yellows are for the wires coming out of the AC stator. There is no order for them to be connected - they (should) all produce the same amount of AC voltage.
 
Thanks man, that's what I was thinking but didn't want to connect it all up that way and blow everything up if I was wrong
 
I don't think that swap is going to work.

If I remember correctly, the GS1100 uses a permanent magnet system (crazy, I know). GSXR is almost definitely an electromagnet alternator.
 
awesome sauce......I already fabbed up a mount for it. There is a guy over on the gs forum that knows them in and out. I'll hit him up to be sure. any suggestions on what might work?
 
Something from a CM400T should work.

But unless you're having problems with your existing R/R, I'd leave it alone and skip the upgrade. Most R/Rs made after 1980 will usually cut the mustard.

Get the bike running and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Rev the bike and keep watching. If you stay at 14.3V or lower, you're fine.
 
thanks! I'm still waiting to hear back from the guy I mentioned before, but I will try that too. it's just an expensive battery and I don't want to risk torching it.
 
In my book, it's better to be certain. I would definitely add insult to injury (injury to injury?) if you were to replace an acceptable R/R with something that didn't cut it and you ended up losing a battery anyway...

The test only takes a few minutes and can save you a couple of hundred bucks.
 
it is going to be a little while before I fire the bike up again, So I did a little digging. Everything I am finding is that the k6 gixxer used a permanent magnet system. I can't seem to find if the regulator is a shunt or series type though. Are there any other concerns with this not being compatible at all? I plan on plugging them both in and testing them once I fire the bike up again, but obviously don't want to do that with the new one if it isn't compatible at all.
 
I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for a K6, but the K1 and K2 are definitely PM systems.
 
And I just checked them both out with a multi meter. seems like the old one has a bad circuit. one the the three inputs from the stator is reading low.

And would this wiring diagram help? (pg 523) http://www.wotid.com/gsxr/manual/GSXR1000-05.pdf
 
Sweet! well now we both know, they used them as late as 06 at least lol. now to figure out how to wire this new one up to check it out.....the wiring diagram shows both positive leads actually connect rather than running to two different points, but i've heard they need to run to separate points.
 
They probably use multiple power and ground wires to avoid overloading issues should one connection fail. It also helps to carry additional current.
 
My impatience got the better of me and I rigged up the new regulator. Waited until the battery was fully charged, and got the bike warmed up. The voltage stayed between 14.28 and 14.39 with one very brief tickle of 14.4; no matter how high I revved it or for how long. And when the regulator started dumping power it never dropped below 14.28. Considering the lithium battery isn't supposed to be charged past 14.6 I think we have a winner!
 
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