Replacing cables?

BenJammin865

1973 Kawasaki F7 175 cafe' racer/brat build
I swapped the stock handlebars on my '73 Kawasaki F7 with drag bars and I noticed the cables seem a bit too long (due to the lower position). Could I leave them alone, or should I replace them with shorter ones? And if so, how do I find out how long they should be?

Pictures are before and after handlebar swap.
 

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it's not for everyone but I've recently taken up shortening my own cables. i determine the length typically by just disconnecting the cable at the controls and pulling the cable out to where i want it to be and measuring the difference. otherwise if you have a drill, soldering iron, and a grinder you can shorten your cables. There are some videos you can look up online as well. If you're not into that, Dime City has some shortened cables for Hondas.
 
I find that a soldering iron doesn't work as well as a stainless measuring cup and a blowtorch, a diy solder pot will get a much stronger joint without the risk of it pulling through, good flux is important too
 
I've been using great grandpas heavy duty solder and an industrial soldering gun. so far so good. the new cheap and thin stuff won't work well.
 
Re: Re: Replacing cables?

Roc City Cafe said:
I find that a soldering iron doesn't work as well as a stainless measuring cup and a blowtorch, a diy solder pot will get a much stronger joint without the risk of it pulling through, good flux is important too

+1 all around. It's also much easier this way than with a gun.
 
Sonreir said:
I've been told that silver solder is a much better option (as opposed to lead), too.

this is what I have been told as well by a shop guy who has done many custom cables.. although its a bit hard and more expensive to find the silver solder over the standard led type. I opted for the standard solder and have no disappointments. i also used a blow torch instead of a soldering iron.
 
Yes, the silver solder will hold up better than standard solder. I've seen silver solder repair jewelry and even the side piece on one of my pairs of glasses. Can't do that with standard solder.
 
You can also try routing them through the longest path possible (without making any ridiculous bends of course). You might be able to take up the extra 6 or so inches you've dropped your bars by just routing them to the far side of your frame and back, or a big crossover beneath your top triple.

Or just buy a set of shorter ones at DCC.
 
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