Rick's 1975 Norton 850 Commando MkIII Roadster

Transmission cover installed with new seal & gasket, kicker installed just after this photo was taken.

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This is as clean as this area between the engine and transmission will probably ever be once it leaves the shop.

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Primary cover with new seal & o-rings for the inspection caps, new gasket of course. Z-plate just set in place for now...

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I have too many irons in the fire to keep up the pace with this restoration, that explains the sparse updates

The fact that there have only been 4 posted replies kinda indicates it might not be worth the effort to keep posting on this forum; I've really had weak response on my restorations here, as they're not plank-seated, fat-tires modern bikes...
 
I may not have posted a lot but I am very interested in your project. I have always loved Commandos and in fact I have one stored away to get to in the future. I hope you continue to post, even if only sporadically.
 
Hey man keeping my eye on this one for sure, just not a Norton guy myself (excluding the JPS rotary race bikes :)). Keep posting the resto is awesome :)
 
I'm still watching too, you know I love your work. Not historically a Norton guy but watching you bring them back is getting me very close haha
 
Finally got the fires put out and back on it.

Chain & chainguard installed. Located spacer and installed center bolt a few minutes later.

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Z-plate, footpeg, shifter, exhaust supports installed.

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Passenger peg mounts & exhaust installed.

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Right hand electrical quadrant is really cruddy inside.

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Disassembled, cleaned & painted right side quadrant.

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Hand controls and cables installed.

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Whole lotta shiny stuff going on...

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Timing cover installed, this side is looking good, too!

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I hope to fire it up soon...
 
Rear master cylinder reservoir, front was similar

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Clean master cylinder reservoir

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Rear brake plunger, lots of grunt

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Clean rear brake plunger

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Rear master cylinder, totally gunked. Nice aftermarket stainless unit. Front wasn't as gunked up.

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Clean rear master cylinder.

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Rear piston was dirty, but it's stainless, so no corrosion. Front was in good shape.

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Rear brakes done including hoses, just need to fill and bleed.

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Front brakes done except filling & bleeding. Both terminals were broken off the brake light switch, replaced with a good one off the shelf.

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Starter housing will get a re-paint.

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Dirty starter parts...

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Nice 4-brush conversion!

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Commutator has a bad groove. I need to chuck it up in the lathe and turn it down, then undercut the mica in the slots.

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Starter Overhaul: Step 1 - chuck the armature in the lathe, center it and cut the commutator down till the low spot JUST cleans up.

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Step 2 - chuck the armature up in the mill vice and use a tiny bit to undercut the mica. Last time I did this was 38 years ago in the Navy, and we used thin, sharp hacksaw blades; took forever.

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Nice and clean, ready to spin up.

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Almost like herding cats, getting those 4 brushes back in their holders! I use o-rings to hold them, 1 at a time.

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Starter bearings lubed, and ready to re-install.

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I had noticed this hairline crack (previously glued) on disassembly, but thought it would be okay. As soon as I started to attach the wire, it cracked open...

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Nope. Failed on installation. Over $100 for a new OEM solenoid delivered, but that's what the client wants.

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Static timing time...

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Confirmation that I had the correct mark; on the MkIII, it has a tell-tale notch that you can use if you have the plug tool.

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Lots of little stuff done (no pix), but waiting on a final small batch of parts including a tach drive gasket, new matched set of idiot lights (no way was I going to use 2 old and 2 semi-new), and the starter solenoid. Rear end almost done, just need some detail alignment.

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Yep, it's close. Basically just fuel lines and I can kick-start it, but it's cold out in the shop, and it's been a L-O-N-G week. I'm taking it easy today.
 
Refurbished console with new decal and all new matching idiot lights.

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The brand new OEM starter solenoid was inoperative out of the package so I've temporarily installed a generic automotive one (works great). I also installed a heavier supply cable from the battery to the solenoid, to better match the dual cables leading to the starter.

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